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Based on your calculations and a base price of $ 3034.00 that the car would sell today for $27,154.00. $223.95 to register it still looks like a pretty good price. I think the licence fee would be much higher at least in California.

What do you think?

Also, the money cleared the bank Mal, so I'll be shipping Wayne's transmissions and your stuff tomorrow. I'll also be getting Jack's stuff out too. So, once all this is done, I'll be getting some pipes to make the intake side of the manifold, and be buying some 1/2" primary blockhugger headers for the exhaust, and hopefully be getting it all welded up this week, so I can finally get the manifolds done and mocked up. More pics to come soon!

A nice surprise when I got home was another pair of HS6's, so now I have all four carbs. So, I decided to do some more grinding on the flange, now I'm down to 3 holes to go! Here's a pic of all four carbs in their respective positions on top of the head:

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Didn't get much done so far this weekend, went to my cousin's wedding. Got to dress up in my suit though, and had to have the obligatory hat to go with it:

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Does that mean that the through out bering has pressure on it all the time or do you still adjust the linkage for some free play?

Think I just answered my own question. Of course there should be free play. When bolting the pressure plate to the fly wheel I always just tightened the bolts a little at a time working back an forth from side to side. Thought this was good enough to keep from deforming the pressure plate.

Here's a couple of brief articles on ign coil construction.

Looking at the schematics, I think the only way to possibly know best orientation without an ign scope on the secondary output would be to have an ohmmeter sensitive enough to pick up the additional .5 - 1.5 ohm of the primary winding reliably. The terminal with the least resistance to the tower terminal would be the one the secondary coil end is attached to--

Don't really think that method would work as I don't believe one could get a reliable reading with the difference of +/- 2 ohms in the secondary coils range between 7.5 - 10k.

A couple of articles mention some coils having the secondary end attached to metal case instead of the primary terminal but I don't know how common that is & don't recall ever checking for one. The description & picture in the Packard Ign training book almost makes one think the dash mounted coils may be constructed that way though.

http://www.delmarlearning.com/samplechapters/dl_display_sampchap.aspx?isbn=0766806731&cid=23

http://www.sentex.net/~mwandel/cannon/sparky.html

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/article/view.article.php?46

Since you experienced a grinding noise on an upshift, it isn't likely a problem with the planetary gear train since that's only turning in low range or reverse.

That you're hearing the noise when it shifts into direct drive certainly suggest the problem is within the converter - though that clutch is controlled from within the transmission.

A moan or groan could be due to a glazed lining (but why all of the sudden?). That condition might be alleviated by alternate fluids or additives.

However, finding the source of some other noise involving the DD clutch will likely require removal of the converter and inspection of its internal workings. Yet, since I've only ever had one of these apart just once, and that was decades ago, I wouldn't even want to venture a guess what it may be.

I'm surprised you have a vapor lock problem in Ireland's cool climate. Possibly with the wedding and limousine work you spend a lot of time idling or driving very slowly which can lead to excess heat under the hood.

The bubbles themselves are not a problem unless they cause vapor lock. If you see a few bubbles don't worry unless the y become bad enough to prevent the fuel pump from working and stall the engine. This is known as vapor lock.

With today's cheap gas the boiling and vapor lock is more common than it was when your car was new. Today's cars do not suffer this way because the fuel injection keeps the fuel under pressure.

If you have a problem with vapor lock there are 2 solutions.

One is to install a fuel filter with a small bypass and run a line back to the tank. This syphons off a small amount of gas along with the bubbles and passes them back to the tank.

Many Japanese cars of the 80s and 90s used these. The filter looks like a normal filter with an extra pipe coming off it. Any brand will do, look for one with the same size fuel lines as your car.

You will have to install a new return line to the tank or some people tap into the fuel line before the fuel pump.

The other solution is to add an electric fuel pump back by the tank. This can be used for priming the carb as well as providing extra fuel pressure. It should be wired to a manual switch for the driver to control it.And should be wired to keyed power so it automatically shuts off when you turn off the key.

Your rear brakes are installed backwards! The primary shoe must be engaged first, or else you get exactly the situation you described and you end up with a largely front wheel only braking car. On the rear this is an easy mistake to make (don't ask) because of the orientation of the brakes with the cam at the front instead of the top of the backing plate.

Tom

PackardV8, what is the year and model of the car you have pictured? I have been thinking about installing modern type 3-point seat belts in my Clipper, but reluctant to take any of the interior trim off of the door post. Attaching the anchor on the door post is the difficult part. Your photo shows possible anchor points nicely. The belts are available in different lengths from an after market vendor I saw at Laguna Seca a few years ago. Thanks.