Looks to me like the top is a C clamp and is mostly there to hold the top of door in a fixed position relative to the bar. Looks like there may be extra pads or shims so probably to adjust for the thickness of the door. The center looks to be another C clamp and I think he is turning the screw side so maybe pushing the door toward the bar. The bottom looks to provide a fixed distance from the bar but also looks like it could be used by moving it inward to push the bottom while the center is held. To me the way it is set up looks like he may be putting a bit of curvature in the door so when closed the bottom will be closer to the sill. It also looks like the location of the working pieces could change depending on what needed to be done on the door.

I came across this in SL Vol13, No13.




Trying to understand how it exactly works. Specially the middle part he is holding on to. Just not enough detail to make it out.

I would guess that it hooks over the middle of the door and the bottom or top pieces are adjusted to bend eithet the top or bottom in or out?

There are now 3,550 Packards in the Packard Vehicle Registry!

A big to all who added their Packard/s to the Registry.

Experiencing difficulties when entering your Packard/s in the Registry? Please let me know and I will do what I can to assist. Or any questions about the Registry please contact me by PM or email - ozstatman@gmail.com.

G'day Sharkey,
to PackardInfo and for including your '53 Clipper Sportster in PackardInfo's Packard Vehicle Registry.

Duane for including John Koch's '50 Eight Touring Sedan in PackardInfo's Packard Vehicle Registry.

Could you please advise when this Packard is sold? So the Registry entry can then be updated.

Kevin, meant to ask that, it being my surmise. But i bow to others here.

Are they still leaking after a retorque?

Some of the studs that go into a water-jacket area probably need thread sealer on them

A bandaid fix may be those radiator-stop leak tablets.

Packard went to a special rolled thread to help with this issue on engines made after 48. On a 48 you may or may not have had this stud but even if so equipped, sometimes during later repairs the special studs were not available so a damaged rolled thread stud was removed and block retapped for regular cut thread studs or in Don's case with his Henney, a regular bolt all of which have cut threads that were prone to leaking. It is also possible you have found an issue during the retorquing of rusted out or damaged block threads or a damaged stud just waiting to fail at an inopportune time.

If it held the new torque and it is a small weep and no danger of any coolant leaking into a cylinder it may reseal with time or you may be able to use one of the circulating sealants used in sealing up porous castings . Those go into the coolant and harden when they leak out and get exposed to air. If you don't want to try that -- and it may be a good idea to check the condition of the stud and threads anyway, then you will probably need to remove the leaking studs and put thread sealant on the threads going into the block.

Attach file:

---

  studs.jpg (217.32 KB)

I mean that's an obvious symptom of a head gasket leak EXCEPT that you used a new head gasket, right? How much did the heads come untorqued in the meantime?

I don't see how paint would stop a pressurized coolant system from leaking, so did you mean that in terms of aesthetic touch-up, or?

Hello all, back with more problems.
When I went to retorque my head studs I noticed that a couple of them were weeping coolant. Is this something I can fix by simply putting new paint over the top; or is that just going to be like putting lipstick on a pig?