this is an electronic pushbutton shift equipped car?

Memory says there are three things that could be at fault.
1. The adjustment bolt that threads into the back of the shifting unit is loose. This can be checked visually by lying under the car and having someone inside go thru the range of buttons. If you see the whole mechanism move then the bolt needs tightened AFTER you again get it in sync with the transmission. Do NOT overtighten as you are tightening die-cast potmetal and you do not want to strip the threads.
2. The bolt that tightens up the sector gear to the shaft lever is loose and not moving the shaft when the sector gear turns. Remove the two screws from the inspection plate and observe the shaft and bolt while someone goes thru the range of buttons.
3. The internal bolt that tightens up the diecast piece that connects to the internal valve is loose allowing the shaft to turn but not moving this diecast link which is connected to the manual valve by a split rivet. I mention this procedure last because you have to drop the tranny pan to observe this function. Be CAREFUL and do not overtighten this bolt as you are tightening against diecast potmetal, not steel.
4. If you find any of these conditions you will have to resync the mechanism with the transmission. I have always put the mechanism in PARK and then moved the mechanism to put the trans in PARK. Then I tighten the adjustment bolt that holds the mechanism in proper position.
Good luck and let us know what you find.

Hi all,

I bought this 52 Packard 300 back in March. Been so hot here lately in AZ, that I've just had a couple cooler days to finally install my new fuel pump and a rebuilt treadle vac.

The Fuel pump that was on the car was toast, and actually bypassed by an electric pump that was pushing way too much fuel. I need help in knowing where and how the fuel lines should be routed to and from the Pump. Any pictures would be great. The original hard lines have been cut. :(

The main thing I am wondering about concerning my Treadle Vac is; Is there a specified torque on the copper crush washers? I did use new ones and I'm kind of wondering if they're going seal. I will not know the outcome until I fill the reservoir and bleed them, which is still probably a month off. I'm in the process of installing all new wheel cylinders, brake hardware etc.

I've included a picture of the left front brake that I've finished.

Boro in AZ

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After months of frustration having an ultramatic rebuilt then the gearshift control system rebuilt on my 56 clipper, the car was recently put into operation.

I have a problem keeping the shifting indexed correctly. It was working correctly until today. I put the car in reverse and it started forward.

Any info to help or references to past postings regarding this problem will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Ron

Keith -

I can understand Randy waiting until he gets some space freed up, but the weather here in Western Pennsyltucky has been pretty miserable lately, as well. We've been getting more than our fair share of rain in recent years, but there seems to be a lot more hot and humid days (and nights) than ever.

May-June and September-October are my favorite months for working outdoors, but I'm gonna need a climate-controlled workspace before I can make much progress on my own cars.

Jack. U do NOT need a longer shaft. The gear can be pushed up the shaft 3/8 to 7/16 inch. About 3/32" will have to be cut from the top of the locator dowel or the locator dowl bored out a little bigger to allow room for the wobble joint sleeve to drop down into the dowel a little bit.

Mock it up with a gear pushed up onto the shaft and u'll see well it works. PLENTY of room for this movement at the distributor end too. I did it 8 years ago and it ran fine.

I assume u eleminated the vacuum pump??? I'm thinking there is a way to keep the vac pump AND have a lower bushing to.

Hi, Joe,

On the pumps I redesigned, I made a full-length cast iron bushing to go top to bottom in the pump housing. Then I made a 1/2" thick bottom plate and machined a recess for the shaft. Of course, a longer shaft was necessary. Now, the shaft is supported three times as much on the top, as well as at the bottom. Guarantee that housing bore wear will never be a problem again.

Problem is, I have $400 in machining and labor in each one. Not cost-effective to do them to sell.

BTW, I need a couple more oil pump, water pump and fuel pump cores. The 374" short blocks I have been buying didn't come with them.

thnx, jv.

The stock 56J pump does not have a bronze bushing. It is exactly like the Packard pump, except it has a flat plate instead of the vacuum pump add on. The top bushing is nothing more than a machined hole. It could easily have been made 2.5" long, since that is how much meat there is in the pump body, but for some reason, only the bottom half (1.25")was machined. The top half is machined about .050" bigger, and as far as I can see serves no purpose.

To experiment, I had a 1.25" bushing made, installed it in the top half of an old pump, and line reamed it. I then drilled the oil hole (near the top) straight thru, in order for oil to get to the entire bushing. I may install it someday just to see if it works.
I understand that is basically what Max Merritt does with his version of modification.

Joe H

Keith, Waiting to get a garage clear so I can put my 400 in it and have mine available to hold the fenders,etc. while we pull the engine and tranny.

Randy. What's the latest on your Carib?????????