Eric, I've read afew of your posts here and on the other forms pages. I'm digging the SN60 upgrade I might have to use that one. My Packard V8 isn't going to be as fast as what I used to so any little bit will help.
I'm hoping to get lucky with my car its been sitting since 1999 and was last on the road in 1971. I guy I'm getting it from told me he drove it in and had it reedy for the road in 99. He stoped working on it when part of his barn fell on the roof. There is a dent the size of my hand in the roof. I don't know why that stopped him but I think his age might have something to do with it to.
I was reading somewhere that I might be able to id the motor by the paint color on the block if so its red ( maybe 320) I know I need the vin number to really know but though I might ask what you guys think. I won't get the home for afew more week still paying for it, but I plan in my head all the things I want to do.
I've also found two more Packards my father inlaw was telling his friends about my Clipper. Come to find out this guys has two 56's one two door and other a four. My wife is going to kill me if one car turns in to three.

Southern Arizona's representative stopped by....

Bottom line Keith, it is a Melling pump manufactered by MELLING not Oldsmobile! No cover up intended.

Keith, As I said in my original post I am putting the bung from the rusty parts oil pan into my good pan which has a stripped bung. Good hint at checking bungs to make sure they are not split.

Randy -

I understand about wanting to get back to original - had just wondered how that plate was sealed (if need be). My dad, who started turning wrenches prior to WWII, had told me that the gas tank fittings were soldered, and I thought it might be same for this sheet metal oil pan.

Quoting from the "1955-1956 Packard Flat Rate Manual"...

Oper. No.: 5-165
Oil Pan or Gasket - R & R
Includes : R & R Cross over, or side exhaust pipe, starter motor, flywheel lower cover, disconnect and lower steering linkage.
Suggested Time: 2.6

(end quote)

I'm curious to know how that compares to real world time?

BTW, the manual provided an additional 0.3, with pan removed, to R & R the oil pump assembly, and 0.4 to recondition the removed pump (i.e. - disassemble, clean, inspect, reassemble, and replace any necessary parts.

Yes, the Twin Ultra. pan used exactly the same drain plug and sealing washer as the V8 oil pan. I don't recall anything so substantial as a spot-welded plate in that application, but it's been over a decade since I had a pan off an Ultra.

If the plug from the parts car is rusted then the bung (tapping plate) from the parts car is not saveable either????

Check both tapping plates to be sure that they are not split near the bottom. Making a new tapping plate should not be too difficult or expensive if necessary.

Anyone interested in the conversion will sooner or later by some way or means determine that it IS an Olds pump. If one is proned to get get a wad in their panties then they will anyway.

On the other hand, attempting to hide, mask or any other method of sidestepping the fact that it is originaly fab'ed for Olds mite raise suspicion by prospective buyers as to WHY. Covering up the fact that it is an Olds pump is strictly an auto dealer/manufacturer tactic that would understandably be construe as shady at best if not a complete misrepresentation.
In my case, i would NEVER opt for the conversion if i thot or conjured the thot that the pump itself was Packard specific meaning perhaps not readily available from local parts stores.
NEVER cover up information!!!

Brian, the bung originally was just spotwelded in place. After examining the spare pan, it seems the sealing is done by tightening the copper or nylon washer snugly against the pan.
The hole in the pan just accomodates the 5/8-18 drain plug.
The plug that was in the 400 was an oversize one. I just want to get back to original. I will test it with water before I bolt it back up.
I wonder how long Packard initially allowed to install a new oil pan gasket? I don't have that manual although Kev may have posted it here.
A separate thought - I believe there is a bung in the transmission pan also. The drain plug there is also a 5/8-18.

Welcome aboard Randy, and thanks for updating us on your problem.

It's interesting to know that the pan has a "bung" plate that is spot-welded in place, lending itself to a transplant. Yet, I suspect that it wouldn't be too hard to fab a new one if a donor wasn't available. Also, have you any thought about "sweating" some solder (after welding) to make the seam leak-proof or is that not necessary?

Helicoils have their place, but I suspect this will be a better fix in the long-run.

Don't worry about being long-winded in your posts, as this is the kind of good, detailed information that we need to archive for future reference. (A forum is about more than just one-on-one discussion.) Also, know that you can break your post into paragraphs as you would with any word processor, and this forum will handle it, without need for any special coding on your part.

Welcome to the Forum Randy.

$30 sounds like a very fair price. Good to know those kind of options are still out there!