Give me an address and I will send you one.

Before I boxed up the temperature gauge ai took a look at it and discovered the needle was stuck. I was able to free it up. So, that led me to testing it with a pot of water on the stove. Sure enough, the gauge was working, but not smoothly and only going to about 3/4 scale.

Chris Connors was a huge help! That’s who I was going to send it to for repair. He walked me through a the cleaning/lubrication process and how to calibrate it.

As a result, the gauge now operates very smoothly and I was able to get it calibrated pretty close. Straight up on the gauge is 180 degrees based on the scale in the car. I think I got it pretty good. It’s at least good enough that I invoked an old philosophy “better is the enemy of good enough”. Meaning, that if you get something where it needs to be, but continue to try and get it better or perfect, you may end up just making it work. I opted to stop while I was ahead.

It’s re-installed in the car and reading dead on where the new temporary gauge read. I’m pretty happy with that.

The others so far were stuck up in the block, but from what I can see it is missing on this one. Probably been missing for years? If I need one or two where to get? Thanks as always.

No problem, 1929Packardguy. I think I’ve come to the same conclusion. Seeing the needle nearly pegged - especially while the engine was still warming up - caused an inexperienced owner like me to feel no small anxiety. I’ve always been conditioned to think that the gauges should stick nice and close to the middle of their range.. But enough people have told me along the lines of what you’re saying with regards to this that I’ve gotten comfortable with the issue. I appreciate you chiming in on the question.

Thanks for the responses.

TxGoat: I do have a bit of a somewhat persistent overheating problem. It consistently runs on the verge of overheating, turning to overheating on occasion in the hot weather and persistent traffic that Denver has to offer much of the year. So I’m looking for ways I might address it. I will be sure to look for a leak at the seal before going further but I’ve never noticed this before.

Su8overdrive: thank you for the VERY detailed explanation of this process. Living in Denver I do need antifreeze in the winter, although I like to switch out to water with some no-rosion in the summer and it gives me decent results, although the problem does persist. Also a question: when you specifically say “to ream around when the block drain plug out” — pardon a possibly dumb question but I’m not sure what the block drain plug is. Also, I will be sure to mention your name, too, if I have a chance to talk to the guys at No-rosion. I have ordered from them in the past. And will also check out write up.

Also looking into timing issues, all hoping to get it running a little cooler before the summer weather really starts to put stress on it.

I hope you enjoyed eclipse yesterday - there wasn’t too much to see here in Denver, it just felt like the sun going partly behind the clouds for few minutes.

The "star washer" type item is to prevent valve assembly rotation. It may not be missing, oft times they remain stuck in place.

Other picture added, thanks

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Attaching a couple photos, one showing a sample valve and what it looks like coming out of car that is in occasional use, and current gasoline. I had quite a time getting one exhaust valve out, really gummed up. Other picture is of some sort of lock washer that seems to go between the top of the valve spring and the block. One is missing on one spring. Is this a necessary part? If yes who sells them?, don't see on Max Merritt site? Only have the valves out of the first three cylinders so far.

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If you twist the mirrors relative to the mounting arm you should be able to find a position where they can be rotated towards or away from the body tol give you a good view to the rear.

The passenger side is more difficult.

I recently bought a 1947 Custom Super Clipper and purchased a pair of the gooseneck side mirrors that I see in these posts. I had no trouble installing them; however, the position of the mirrors is positioned at a 90% angle to the door. The mirror itself can only rotate so far so all I can see out of them is the asphalt. The passenger side mirror is barely visible at all. As far as I can "see," these proper rear view mirrors look great but are utterly useless.

Can anyone out there give me information about how I might adjust these mirrors so that they can actually be used as intended? I really like the style of these mirrors, but I really would like them to work for safety.