I believe in the parts manual they list the spring ratings and info by model.

Quote:

Good point.

I had noticed the difference in engine mounts. Looking at both engines side by side the earlier engine also has a nice chunky harmonic balancer where the later engine more or less just has a pulley .

Or is that a manual trans vs Ultramatic thing? Perhaps the Ultramatic dosent need it because of the torque converter ?

34 blankets sold at Hershey!

I have 9 left for sell.

Note that 1951 was the last year for the tank whistle on the vent line and the reproduction tanks do not have it. Still, far better than trying to find and repair an original tank! If you still have your old tank, though, be sure to place the the original and the reproduction side by side on a hard, flat surface to check the filler height as there have some reports of a few being off a little. Easy to fix when not installed.

Located in MO, send me a PM if you can

I've got repo one in the box. Sold the car it was for. Where are you located? Sell for very reasonable price.

G'day Kris M,
to PackardInfo.

If you have a complete Packard, ie not just bumperettes, I invite you to include it in PackardInfo's Packard Vehicle Registry.

You need to determine if the problem is electrical or mechanical. Some but not all ODs have an inline fuse in the wire between the starter solenoid BAT terminal and the relay box terminal 1. If a postwar service article was performed there may also be a reverse safety switch operated by the reverse shift lever at the base of the steering column along with the fuse both inserted in that wire. If 6v is not at terminal 1 check for a blown fuse or open switch.

Does the indicator light come on when the car reaches engagement speed of approximately 20-25 mph? If it does that confirms the electrical command is trying to bring it in. If it does not and there is power into the relay box at terminal 1 then it would be a matter of finding out which component in the string between the governor and relay box might be preventing ground supplied thru the governor from reaching the relays. With the car sitting still, the lockout and kickdown switches can be eliminated by grounding the relay box at terminal 5. If the relays, indicator light and solenoid then energize it would be a matter of working back in the wiring between the governor and relay box by grounding at each switch to figure out which one is not working. The lockout switch is one known place where a worn switch plunger could be preventing the switch from closing when the knob is pushed in to enable OD.

If the relays do click when grounding terminal 5 but nothing is heard from the solenoid under the car or light does not come on then check and clean the main relay solenoid contact before going under to verify voltage is reaching terminals 3 and 4 on the solenoid. Both terminals MUST have 6v present for the solenoid to pull in. There are some inline connectors joining sections of loom between the relay box and solenoid that could be causing an issue either with the solenoid power or ground from the governor.

If the voltage is present at the solenoid but there is no sound of it trying to pull in or if OD still will not engage then the solenoid or a mechanical issue in the OD unit is the most likely problem. The solenoid possibly just needs a contact cleaning or at worst replaced but if the issue is mechanical inside the unit then that will require removal and probably a rebuild.

HotRodKid56,
for including your '56 Clipper Custom Touring Sedan in the Registry.

I suspect any good used tanks have been well picked over and even if you find one it most likely would need cleaning or sealing with no guarantees. New repro tanks are available at Auto City Classics and by the time you figure everything that might be needed with a used tank the repro will probably be the least expensive option.