Old thread, any new info? Currently researching converting my 53 Patrician to modern booster/master. I can go through the crotch vent and it lines up with the 53 pedal at a 4:1 ratio. The yellow mark is 4:1. But the pedal pivot isn't up for the leverage. Is iffy at 1:1 ratio. So I'm looking at universal pedal assemblies.


Thanks
Earl

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While you could have an intermittent short somewhere in the light wiring that is tripping the switch protection, the mostly repeatable on/off symptom after a few minutes of operation is also very typical of a weak circuit breaker. As circuit breakers age they tend to change characteristics, usually tripping at a lower amperage than their rating. This is often seen in postwar models and while most earlier models use what Packard called a thermostatic overload relay which is an integral part of the switch, it operates very much like the later breakers. Current flowing thru a bimetal strip heats the strip and the more current, the hotter it gets until strip bends and opens a contact.

There is an adjustment screw for the earlier strips although to get an accurate adjustment special equipment is required and Packard says the adjustment should not be changed. This is probably due to dealers not having the equipment to measure and vary the current thru the switch. I don't know how easy it is to access the switch and adjustment screw in the car. If you do not find any short, you could try another switch as Packard recommends or if the switch and screw can be accessed maybe go ahead and try to move the screw a tiny bit one way or the other and see if the problem goes away or gets worse. As I recall, the adjustment screw looks like a small slotted setscrew with a nut on it. The screw will be electrically hot so be sure to disconnect the battery between adjustments.

It will not take more than a very slight amount of adjustment so if you do try, only go maybe a 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn and keep track of the amount and direction so you do not get it so far out current protection becomes worthless.

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Corey----sent PM....

Okay…I’m back to the original problem that had me questioning the generator. I have since confirmed that the generator is working well and charging as it should.

When driving at night, after about 5 to 10 minutes, the lights start flashing on off…somewhat randomly.

Since it is all of the lights…ie everything connected to the light switch and nothing else electrical, I believe the issue must be with the light switch itself.
To clarify, the headlights, tail lights instrument lights all blink). The dome lights and other electrical items continue working fine.

Could it be something as simple as the contacts being dirty resulting in the vibration of the car making and breaking contact? I can’t think of what else it might be.

Thoughts appreciated.

Here is something rare: Two 1958 Packard Hawk project cars for sale in Knoxville, TN:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/832567251951067/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

Seller also has a very nice original Packard Hawk for $35K. Not sure why the hood, rear deck and nose are a different color from the rest of the car, but it looks like a good one:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/204725739330563/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post


And he also has two 1957 Studebaker Golden Hawks, making this a real hawks nest:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/831630612304416/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

Solid 1927 Single Six Sedan, but way over priced at $45K

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1057557601933144/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

Nicely restored 1949 (23rd Series) Super Deluxe Convertible Victoria. Rare 23rd series convertible:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1772307449885976/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

Just posted on Craigslist (Western Mass.) 1930 740 Phaeton project. Rough and incomplete:

https://westernmass.craigslist.org/ctd/d/ware-1930-packard-740-phaeton-project/7690516772.html

Seller also has a 1930 745 project for sale, again, very rough and incomplete:

https://westernmass.craigslist.org/ctd/d/ware-1930-packard-745-roadster-project/7690515737.html

Unrestored 1954 Convertible. Solid body but needs everything. Alabama:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2229013670626120/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

Very nice 1930 740 Coupe in TX:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/290726730110001/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

Hi. Not sure where you are located but saw this 1946 on Craigslist in California. It is way over priced but has been for sale for over a month now and the seller may be willing to come to earth.

https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/d/newberry-springs-1946-packard-limo/7680985333.html

Here is another one in Fort Worth, TX, but the seller is absolutely insane with his asking price. This is a parts car and you could get a pretty decent driver in this condition:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3554015128188632/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

This car is in Florida:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/155410587523050/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

Found this one in Oklahoma. It is listed as a 1941, but the dash style indicates that it is a 1942 model, so some of the interior parts could be used on your '46 model:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1840252063057756/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

Hope this helps.

Trying to source a cylinder head for 1934 Super 8. Does anyone know where I could find one or does anyone cast new heads to suit?

About the rubber:
I believe the rubber discs go against the cross member, one on top and one underneath. The large steel washers would go on the outside face of the rubber discs with the bolt going through and being made snug enough to squeeeze the rubber just a little, but not tight. The hole in the frame is oversize to allow some adjustment and to allow the frame to flex a little without straining the sheet metal or radiator or jamming the hood. Any needed vertical adjustment could be made with steel washers or thinner rubber discs, or adjusting the body mounts.

So cool!
Atta go girl!! My daughter is hesitant with a clutch, need to get her out next year.
Bob J.

I read that too! Hilarious!
Plus you really need to address that 'hump'. (Some people need to stay away from a keyboard!)
Bob J.