Thanks, Evan. I'm getting it straight now. The paint store also filled me in.

They didn't know what blending paper is. I explained. Thought it was some kind of netting, a screen. But now I know and what's better, I HAVE it! (I had it in the kit. I thought it was for sanding the primer.)

When you roll over it, does the design bleed through? Does it just soften the edge? What is the function really? Is there a video that shows "This is what it looks like if you DON'T use 320 sandpaper." "Here's what the edges look like when you do?"

I also got some Meguiars Mirror Glaze Cleaner/Polish, which they recommended for use after sanding the clear urethane with 2000.

Thanks for your help with this.

Quote:

Could sinking one or both of the valve seats deeper in the head provide for greater width? Of course, this would result in "shrouding" and also affect combustion chamber pressure. But, remember the extra flow you'll get from the blower. You might be looking for a problem that you won't have.

Quote:

I agree, with your obvious skills and access to equipment, this will not be too hard. Multiple cylinder heads for in-line engines have already been used with good results. International Harvester did it on their crawler tractor engines. 6-cylinder in-line diesel (overhead valve) engines had two "3-cylinder" heads that were torqued individually to the block. The block, of course was over 4 feet long (I estimate), so a full-length head bolted to it would naturally tend to buckle and crack. In fact, the short heads were even prone to cracking. So, another reason for the split head design is maintenance. Possibly just one head needs repair and it's much easier to remove and transport 250 pounds at a time instead of 500 (not really exaggerating much because each included valves and rockers).

SO, separate 4-cylinder heads for a straight-eight automotive engine should be a strength, not a weakness. It's probably been done on other engines, I just happened to be personally familear with an International 6-cylinder in a TD 18 crawler tractor.

Now, about those 2-cycle engines and "scavenging" exhaust from cylinders during the downstroke, using crankcase pressure and ports in the cylinder walls, any old Lawnboy mower gives a great example of how well this works. As most of you know, plenty of other 2-cycle one or two cylinder engines use a similar design. The advantage is: no blower needed, eliminating moving parts and parasitic drag.

This leads back to my flathead. valveless engine... each cylinder could have a discreet crankcase that would used its own pressure on the downstroke to scavenge the cylinder of gases and re-fill with air/fuel mixture. Of course, some type of oil injection or oil-mixed fuel would be necessary in that case. Otherwise, a blower would be needed.

Next, to eliminate the ignition system as well... think gasoline powered engines for model airplanes and cars, but on a larger scale.

The downside to all of this is, of course, emissions. But on a race car, this is not an issue, and the whole point of posting these thoughts is to make sure you're using every possible crazy idea on this Biposto. It's beginning to look like this might end up being your bucket-list vehicle, after all, so it must make a complete statement of your personal values and tastes, or lack thereof.

Joe,

The YS 238K is Going to be fine for your base color.
It is nearly identical to LS 120.

PPG DX330
PPG NCP271 These are the recommended primer and hardener that we have used with very good results.

Dupont ChromaBase Base Coat (This is your YS 238K)
Incidentally Dupont ChromaBase is the only base coat we have found that works well with our Woodgraining process.

House of Kolor SG-100 (this is different from your YS 238K, it is an intercoat clear and its use is optional) JDee can give more advice on the SG100.

Slow reducer (this is the reducer for the YS 238K
the Chroma-Base maker)

3 Coats House of Kolor UFC-35 Clear (the urethane)
Yes, this is the urethane clear coat that we have used with very good results.

Wet sand with 2000 grit
Buff to gloss
Yes, It sounds like you talked with JDee on the painting. JDee is the one to talk to on this as he is the one that is the most knowledgeable among us of this aspect of the woodgraining process and I am sure he will add his two cents worth.


The blending paper is simply 320 wet/dry sand paper.
We reuse it for years.
Remember to lay it rough side down.

Hope this helps, and again the YS 238 will be fine for the base color on the Mottled Aspen Woodgrain.

Evan

JDee and Evan,
I'm going to get more basecoat today. I have the can of basecoat I used on the moulding to take which has: Dupont ChromaBase Y(drip)238K SpectraMaster Yellow

On my original instructions, probably from a phone call, I have:
PPG DX330
PPG NCP271 (I believe these are the primer and hardener)

Sand with 320

Dupont ChromaBase Base Coat, House of Kolor SG-100, Slow reducer

3 Coats House of Kolor UFC-35 Clear (the urethane)

Wet sand with 2000 grit
Buff to gloss

So is Y_238K the same as House of Kolor SG100?

One thing I seem to be missing is "blending paper." Not sure how I could have misplaced it, but I'm not sure what it looks like. Is it something common I can find at a paint shop? On my kit list, it says "4 assorted sizes"... do you reuse the blending paper each time?

In the meantime, I'll try looking at the video again.

Gerd, very interesting feature on Myrtle, so much so, it's a good guide for Sam's or any restoration Blog! Documenting your progress of how things are done, any unusual aspects and most importantly plenty of pictures of all aspects including the people involved.

End of diversion. I'll let Sam pick up the running from hereon in.

Sam, thanks for registering. To ask for it is a kind of conditioned reflex - the so-called recorder reflex, also known in common parlance as Myrtle snapper reflex.
I wish you an interesting restoration period and strong spending restraint.

Gerd,

Sam has already done so, in fact he did that before starting this blog!

I know how keen you are to see the Registry continue to grow, and at times I've made the same mistake myself because of my Registry Fever enthusiasm, so understand the situation perfectly.

EDIT - Gerd, irrespective of the correct genus, I would call it Myrtle!

Sam, welcome to PackardInfo.com.
If you could please add your car to the Owner Registry we would appreciate it.









Mal (Ozstatman), is it a green turtle [Chelonia mydas] or a map turtle [genus Graptemys]? However, don't call it swan.

Sam,

Looking forward to following along as your restoration progresses. You have a great start there with almost a complete car, the parts you're missing shouldn't be too hard to come by.

Love your Avatar, looks very much like your Packard!

Project began on June 13, 2011 (bought in Atlanta Mar 26, 2011)

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Basic plan: 100% original - 2 year - $8,000 budget - only upholstery and chrome done outside

The "canvas" is fairly clean;
. running, drive-able condition
. <1% surface rust
. few and small body dents
. 99.99% complete (only missing fender skirts and rear sway bar)

======================================

June 2011 - rebuilt 244S Carter carb, replaced thermo and radiator hose, General Duel-90's, polish cleaning.

July plan - joy-ride / sunday afternoon crusing

- then, full restoration begins!
updates and more pictures to follow...

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