MPH = rpm x C (tire circumference in feet), divided by the result of F (final drive ratio) x 88.

Piston speed: stroke (in inches) x rpm, divided by 6

Or for our Euro Packard owners: stroke in mm x rpm divided by 30,000

Into the 1950s, maximum safe piston speed was 2,500 ft. per minute, tho' metallurgy, bearing design factors.

PS. While i want Jeff Adkins, Mike Chirco at Tucson Packard, and John Ulrich not to be overlooked, and though i've lauded him in the past, another shout out to Max Merritt Packard's genial, most helpful Mike Grimes, (317) 736-6233, ext. 103, mike@packardparts.com

www.packardparts.com

Kunzea, go with Mike Chirco at Tucson Packard. I and Packard friends have long bought from them. Good people, reasonable, no junk.

Usually go to Jon Stewart's Daily Show, Bill Maher's Real Time, or Jimmy Kimmel Live's opening to laugh out loud, but Peter's above another case of hilarious hard truth.

Thanks for sharing this look at some well-tended Iberian Packards. Some newbies may not realize that through the '30s, Packard exported more fine cars (above $2,000 FOB) than all other domestic automakers combined, and into the '40s remained by far the leading make in the world's embassies.

FM, don't know why the below two long-established vendors omitted:

Jeff Adkins, Moose Motors, Penngrove (Petaluma, CA in the North Bay), 1935-56 mechanical and electrical parts (no cosmetic/trim). Jeff's a lifelong multiple Packard-owning wrench who also rebuilds components, prompt turnaround, even has the original Packard jigs to rebuild Packard pressure plates which have adjustable fingers, something the no more stronger yet commonly used Ford truck clutches lack. Rebuilds carbs, starters, distributors, stocks R-9, R-11 overdrive transmissions, Ultramatics and their parts. Drum brake parts for all old domestic cars Auburn through Zephyr, supplying same to NAPA and other regional parts houses. (707) 576-1676 packardguy54@sbcglobal.net

https://julrichpackard.com/

John carries all manner of parts 1928-47 both junior and senior.

Please tell these reputable pros that Mike, '47 Super Clipper, Walnut Creek referred you.

Pardon, but the Packard encyclopedic gentleman, HH56, invariably, is right. I meant the hood can open from either side, but yes, there is only one (1) prop.

Duck soup. Pick up isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, 90% or better at any drugstore, or denatured alcohol at Ace, etc., flush the brake system until only clear, clean alcohol emerges. Blow out all lines with compressed air. Even a small home compressor like you'd use for bike tires, balls, pool floats strong enough.

Regardless brand, all DOT 5 silicone brake fluid is made by Dow Corning, so whoever has the lowest price. You'll never have to replace it. I know a fellow w/ '40 120 conv., '40 180 Darrin, '42 160 drophead, all three have the same DOT 5 since the 1980s, still looks new. The USPS fleet uses nothing but, as has for decades arctic military posts.

The only thing you'll ever have to do is adjust your brakes once in a blue moon, and that dear little if you anticipate stops, use engine braking. Caramba. 1925 Cole had self-adjusting brakes, as did, today's version, 1946 Studebaker. But by the late '40s, Packard was increasingly phoning in their cars, focused on their less hassle, more lucrative govt. and jet engine contracts, living on a no longer deserved reputation, following GM, not a leader in anything since the 1920s, unless you count outside sourced things like air conditioning and Torsion Level. Our Wagner brakes are good, but unremarkable. Indiana-built Crosley had four-wheel disc brakes for 1949, Chrysler Imperial that year had a disc/drum combination through 1953, not true discs, like the '55 Austin-Healey 100S on all four wheels, followed by Jensen's Model 541 the next year.

Drum brakes can stop you as fast as discs, just not repeatedly.

Why on earth? One (1) 6-volt Optima has enough to spin my '47's nine-main-bearing, 7.5:1 compression 356-ci engine; it will easily spin a 327, let alone a 288. (800) 426-7580, Jim's Battery Manufacturing, Youngstown, OH, has a 6-volt, 55-amp, positive ground alternator, bolt in, no butchering whatsoever. Tell Jim and Dolores that Mike, '47 Super Clipper, Walnut Creek, CA and Hans, '47 Custom Super, British Columbia referred you.

Weight is the enemy. Why do you want to drive around with a pair of off-gassing, leaky, wet, h e a v y batteries? I got almost a decade each from my last two Optimas, know of a '41 Cad that went 14 years. C-Tek UC 800 trickle charger is the one you want. An Optima tech so recommended in the late '90s, no regrets since.

Yours stick and overdrive? Had a '51 200 40-48 years ago. Good ergonomics, good road cars, esp. w/ stick/OD, drab as an ordnance vehicle within. Even w/ that lock up Dynaflow, "Uncle" Tom McCahill preferred it over the 400 Patrician. Yours is a relatively light two-door. Jettison every pound. Spray everything you can with oil to protect from Charleston's salt air.

And you don't need cupholders. Just fill the sliding metal glovebox with ice and some long straws.

Should be a hood prop on each side to facilitate working on engine. Make sure to lock the opposite side from the one you're opening or catastrophe.

On paint, be gentle. Tear the labels from 100% cotton terry cloth bath towels since they're polyester and will scratch paint. If you have water spots or other stains, go easy with the absolute minimal amount of cleaner, light polish by hand. Be careful or you'll wind up exposing primer. If you can't remove the blemishes you mention, just wax and rewax, rub everything 'til it gleams. Having an original car is priceless. Anyone can repaint a car. Go easy on the chrome. Nothing coarser than quadruple 0000 steel wool or copper wool if you can find it, perhaps Ace. Then keep it thoroughly waxed. Don't be cowed by "restored" cars. Most are of them are nightmares and never have that solid factory feel.

Check head and manifold torque engine warm with accurate torque wrench. Do not overdo. You want the manifold secure but able to expand and contract. Don't forget the manifold heat control valve. It should be free, the weight all the way up snug when engine cold. Try to work some graphite powder mixed with kerosene into both ends. Anything else will only burn off.

Drive car. Don't worry. See you have a set of radials. Good move.