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Re: Ground strap for 32 packard
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As far as I can tell, there was no ground strap on these cars originally. These engines and transmissions were not mounted with rubber bushings, so a ground strap should not be required. The bolts that hold everything onto the frame should be enough to create a solid ground.
Extra paint/coatings applied to the frame during restoration, or anti-seize lubricants applied to the mounting bolts, may make such a strap necessary. Cranking speed when the engine is warm is probably not related to the engine ground. In general, a low wear engine will be harder for the starter to rotate when it is hot. This is just part expansion. It should still fire easily. If the engine does not start readily when warm, your problem is probably related to something other than the starter. Cheers, Tom
Posted on: 2014/7/18 19:48
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Re: What is on the ceiling of this Pierce?
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Sun visors for rear compartment passengers.
Posted on: 2013/6/27 12:34
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Re: 28 526 Runabout Carb Kit
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Did you try Daytona parts?
Posted on: 2013/6/27 12:26
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Re: Henry's 55 Constellation
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Quote:
Actually, modern clear coats are a barrier to water. The problem is the underlying surface. If you already have rust, you already have water. Unless the surface thoroughly dried before coating, you will still have water and the corrosion will proceed. Corrosion adds volume, resulting in blisters, which allow more water to enter. One option for removing all water is spraying 100% ETOH on the surface in a very low humidity, warm environment. The ETOH will carry the water away as it evaporates. Of course, the surface would also need to be completely cleaned of all hydrophilic substances. This is probably not a helpful comment. For that I apologize. The professor in me sometimes overwhelms my better judgement. Tom
Posted on: 2013/6/27 12:17
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Re: Using Chem-dip to clean a fuel pump...
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That is a stamped steel bowl. Carb cleaner will not effect it.
Tim, the DL 51 carbs were made from a pretty porous pot metal. Perhaps the varnish was the only thing holding it together? Cheers, Tom
Posted on: 2013/6/18 11:18
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Re: 1102 transmission
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Quote:
I will second Dave's suggestions. When you clean the transmission, carefully check for chipped or uneven wear on the gear teeth. Also check for lateral movement. If you have not previously had problems with the tranny, and the above checks show an ok gear box, then I would not go any further. Rebuilding these transmissions can become quite the ordeal of frustration, regardless of the experience level of the rebuilder.
Posted on: 2013/6/18 11:05
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Re: Using Chem-dip to clean a fuel pump...
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Dave, as usual, is probably correct.
The black stuff is probably organics that have had their more electron slutty components removed. Your metal is more than likely fine. We use the same stuff and have never had a component failure due to our cleaning.
Posted on: 2013/6/12 13:30
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Re: Painting the engine
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Quote:
Actually, some of the hardware is white cadmium. For example, the water pump nuts. I can get a full list if interested. Quote:
Unless the car has a radio. Then they should be resistive connectors. I am working on a replica of these. Cheers, Tom
Posted on: 2013/6/6 11:18
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Re: About the negative battery connectiion?????
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The majority of current flow is on the outer edge of a wire (if I remember correctly, this results from the 90 degree rule). Given that, straps provide a large surface area for current to flow and so are more than adequate for a ground.
Posted on: 2013/6/5 12:37
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Re: If a beginner asked for help, what model would you recommend, and why?
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The previous advice is great if you are buying a post-war car. If you are interested in a pre-war car, I would try to find one that is mechanically well sorted and largely rust free. Fixing mechanical problems, especially for the 320 and 385 engine chassis, can be more expensive than the metal work (again, assuming you have a relatively rust free car).
But, as BigKev, said, the best advice is to buy the best car you can afford.
Posted on: 2013/6/4 12:38
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