hi there guys i have a 1936 Packard senior eight and the pinion seal is leaking again,i purchased a seal from Max Merritt i fitted the seal and after a mile it chewed it up,i have realised my mistake i think i should have removed the washer/dirt deflector bit first which is on the flange,my question is does any one know the sizes of the pinion seal or a part number etc,so i can go to my local bearing supplier and purchase one,i have fitted an old seal from another axle which is leaking,however i forgot to measure it oops!!!
any help always apprciated Dave

hi there the problem is there is a lot of damage rust etc,is the trim piece available and any idea where i could could get a repro one,i don't like my idea much but its an idea, I'm on the fence with it,but there is a lot of rust damage there i like doing things properly

hi there guys have been on here for a while,i have a question about the roof panel,i have had a look and there are woodern beams i think chicken mesh wadding and vinyl with a trim around the roof, i have read on the forums before it is a lot of work, i have the channel which the beading lays in is rotted and need to be repaired,i have been looking question could make the wooden frame work and make a roof panel steel sheet and weld which will fill in the roof area,then paint and fill,then glue the vinyl to the roof and then trim after,would this affect anything other than making the roof stronger
any advice,
cheers Dave

p.s the floor has rotted away there is no wood left has anyone got any pic or plans to show how the wood would have been fitted

some one has cut the hood and extended it to meet the chassis length is a bit of a mess,what parts can you see as junior??is the body?

thanks for reply,adding some photos its is a 41,would it be a 120 body or 160,I'm ignoring the parts on the floor he had a packard 6 cylinder engine there and a spare set of fenders,they may have had 3 or 4 cars 160 120 and 1954 who knows,i bet you do,what do you think!

Attach file:

---

  (124.27 KB)


  (223.62 KB)

hi there i don't know if anyone can shed some light on this i have looked around and see articles on the firewall numbers but got a headache now
i have found a Packard convertible 1941 the chassis has been changed to a 54 and engine etc there are know tags any where but i have the firewall number which is 558261 in this number so i understand is the model production number i think 58 or 61 but don't know were to find out what they are if any one can shed some light many thanks Dave

thanks for your advises they must have had some tool I reckon to take the pain out of the job, i remember trying to fit from the bottom before it started to work then the block wobbled about so I then gave up and did it the hard way.it would make the job so much easier if you could slip the block off fit a new set of pistons slip and new one on.
i was shown a set of piston ring clamps the other day which where able to wrap around the pistons and then clamped with ratchet plyers once the piston is fitted it can be unwrapped and slid out i may have a go do some swearing give up and do it the hard way i will see what happerns and let you know cheers dave

hi there i have a question can the engine cylinder block can pistons be replaced with out removing the sump,which means fitting the pistons from the bottom of the the cylinder,i have rebuid one of these engines before and it was a pain dropping the pistons from the top. the engine in question is a spare but the valves are seized i bit and the block is rusty.i want to remove the block strip and clean replaced the valves and rings.it looks like it can be done but looks tricky may be the are special tools which i dont know about,any advice is greatly apriciated Dave

update on valve problem , I removed head manifolds etc removed all valves number 6 valve was wearing the new guide away .I fitted a new guide and valve and rebuild .I took the car out last Sunday and did 90 miles no problems fingers crossed seems to be running quieter and smoother now.
what I believe the engineer shop had just fitted the valve guides and did not ream them to size.
many thanks again for the info.

on to the next problems

today i have remove the head manifolds and the valve, the problem valve is and exhaust valve which has eaten the valve guide made it oval,before i removed the valve i had the car running and had a look at the hole to see if there was oil comming out which there was a constant dribbile equal from each one,i had emagined that there should be a small spray from these and not a dribble,i have also checked the conrods oil hole and the oil hole is facing the valves also the piston cut out lined up with the cylinder bore holes.
question the cylinder holes should they spray or dribble,
my assumption which is the valves were dry,valve guides which were new may be too tight when warm not reemed out maybe causing the valve to seize.
tommorrow im taking all the valves and checking and fitting a new valves guides where ever needed,luckly i have spare valves and guides,
has anyone had this problem before!!
cheers dave

p.s thanks for your help and advise greatly appricated!!