oops. apparently pictures did not load. Pictures not in manuals but taken of parts. I'll have to try to load them again. Drats!

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A picture shows the rubber bushing pressed about half way into the bracket. Adding pressure seems to just distort the rubber without any advance into the bracket. Both sprayed with soapy water as a lubricant. Has anyone out there had experience with replacing these?

The second picture is of some electrical device attached to the ultramatic on a 56 400. I haven't been able to find any reference to what it might be in the parts or service manuals. The car drives and shifts ok

I contacted the link from HH56 and sent the pump out yesterday. I thank you all for your comments. It still would be interesting to know if the impeller face needed to be machined.

Planned to take 400 to local AACA meeting. Ran to warm up, check fluids, tires etc. Oops small puddle on floor, coolant! "Drats".
Ordered kit(bearing, seal, gasket).
Found old carbon seal to be cracked and broken, fell apart when dissembled pump.
Pressed in new seal, and bearing. Made sure shaft turned free and easy. Installed. Leaked from hole in bottom of pump housing. Leaking around seal.
Removed dissembled , inspected impeller face, some pitting and what looked like there may have concentric groves machined on the face at one time. Polished face with 220 paper reassembled and reinstalled. Loud squeaking noise!
Oh Oh! Removed again dissembled, found brass cap holding spring and seal pressed to close to impeller and had rubbed on impeller. Cleaned up edges that had distorted from contacting impeller. Made sure seal moved freely in and out, unrestricted. Reinstalled. This time different noise. Removed, again and found one blade of the impeller had made contact with manifold. Pressed impeller in a "tad" Installed it for the fifth time! Added coolant. No noise! but leaked like a sieve!!
I give up. Any suggestions? or would I be better off sending it out to some one who rebuilds water pumps?

Other than the chipped pulley edges, it appears that the outer (ac) is of a smaller diameter?
If so this would drive the ac compressor at a higher rpm.
Of the few ac units I have seen on Packards,pulleys are of the same diameter

NO. Shocks are standard. No over coil.

Thank you! Appreciate the response. Won't be able to reinstall control unit until mid-January. Will update then.
The car sits wheels on the ground. The control on the work bench.
PS: Previous speedometer problem caused by replacing rubber washer/spacer on the wrong (inside) of the glass face. Where it used up the clearance in front of the indicating needle causing it to bind and brake.

The car was acquired in 2009. It had been stored inside since 91. Repaired: fuel system, brakes, front floor pans, and a new interior. The TLS is the last thing that needs to be addressed.
The car sits high in back, (1&1/4" in 4' as measured on the frame). The control arms were bent. A mounting boss was broken, and the shaft mounting plate bent and scored from interference with the control lever. The down limit switch wires were also broken.
The control arms have been straightened, the broken boss can be welded, and the shaft mounting plate has been straightened. When control unit was removed the lever was froze on its shaft, and had to be pressed off. The spline had twisted (see pic.) and the ID distorted. Ground out ID to a slip fir on shaft. Assembled unit with bent spline functions in both directions off the car. Motor checked out OK. Have NOS limit switch.
It is interesting that with the control unit off the car it still sits high. Adding my 190+ lbs. to the back bumper made no noticeable difference.
Any suggestions on:
Leveling the car without the control unit installed
Using bent spline as is
Finding a good used compensator lever
Type of grease

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I say one again it's time to ask:"ask the man who owns one". Car is a 1956 400 hundred bought as a running car needing brakes - it did. Fixed brakes, floor boards, gas tank, fuel pump/carb etc, plus new interior. Finally got it out on the road this year to a local car show (display only). First time out speedometer was all over the map. Got it home, pulled cable, cleaned and lubed cable. Second time out acted the same way and the needle broke. Bought a used unit, spun with drill when received, worked okay. Pulled instrument panel, cleaned gauges/glass etc. Installed replacement speedometer, started acting funny. Seems as if the glass face was interfering with the needle. Pulled instrument panel cluster with speedometer installed. If speedometer screws to cluster are snugged up needle sticks, if screws are loosened needle works most of the time but will sometimes stick. I do not want to put it back into the car until I am sure it will work properly. Suggestions would be appreciated.

I have a 55 400 with an original but well worn interior. The shelf covering under the rear window consists of two layers. The bottom looks like builders felt, but its not,although it could be used, with a top of the same type of firm cardboard used in door panels. This is colored to match the interior. I have used vinyal spray paint to achieve a near factory appearance.

happy