Is that the layer of cotton batting? I really looking forward to how it all comes out.

Seeing your work makes me realize I need to talk to the upholstery shop that is going to do my seats. I really don't want them to just slap a thick layer of foam on and call it good. I have no idea if they redo the burlap on the springs or do a new cotton layer just under the seat covers. I should probably discuss what I'm looking for with them.

-Kevin

Found a few chrome screws at my local Ace Hardware. I confirmed that the original Packard screws are #8 with a #6 head. They don't have the lengths I need (many of the originals are long....2 inches at least).

This picture shows the #8 heads on the Max Merritt kit:



Here's a new #8 with #6 head. Fits perfectly within the washer as well.



-Kevin

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Love the color scheme on the 56' Panama. Interior is not bad either. 12K is probably reasonable as well. With a little effort I think it will clean up nicely.

-Kevin

Don - a quick glance through that website showed plenty that had smaller heads than the shaft. #8 shaft with #6 head, etc. Not a bad price for those either. I'm going to check a couple places locally to see if I can find some that are the right (or similar) size. I'm not sure what size are original to the Packard, so I wouldn't be sure of what to order online. The trim kit from Max Merritt doesn't have them labeled by size, just bagged according to location (windshield, rear window, etc).

-Kevin

I'll get under the Panama tonight to check. Should be the same set up as yours.

Kev - yeah, they definitely sit high in most of the holes. The sill plate screws shouldn't be a problem, but I haven't tried them yet. I'll have to go through my inventory and see what original screws I have that can still be reused.

Howard - Thanks for the heads up. I hadn't thought to check Restoration Specialties. I'll measure the screws I need and see what they have. I'll use what I can from the Max Merritt kit (sill plates, non-visible areas) and then hopefully supplement the rest with ones from RS. Does the "W/6Hd" represent a reduced size head?


-Kevin

Made some slight progress tonight. Been busy with a bunch of other stuff so haven't touched the car for a week.

A package came in from the good folks at Max Merritt. I finally replaced the missing antenna grommet, which will keep the antenna from rattling around and scuffing up the paint. Looks much better with the grommet in place. The motor on the antenna works, but the mast and nylon were broken off long before I got the car. Eventually I'll figure out a replacement or repair option, but that is the lowest thing on my list right now.



I also replaced the four missing bumpers on the front of the hood. The hood hardly rattled before, since my side bumpers were in decent shape, but these front ones will keep it rock solid.



A trim screw kit also came in. All of my interior trim was already removed from the car when I got it, with pieces spread all over the trunk. The screws (what was left of them) were all mixed together in various containers. Many of the screws on the windshield trim were nearly rusted in half. So I figured I might as well replace them with new. Problem is I have no idea where all these screws go since none were there previously. This set is for the rear window. I think I figured most of it out, but not everything. The screw heads are definitely larger than the original ones. Not sure they make smaller heads now. But most of the old ones are not useable now.



I also spent a solid hour and a half at an automotive paint store (also an hour and a half away) to try and find a good match for the exterior paint. Looking through every possible cross reference to the original code didn't yield anything remotely close. Paint matching camera gave me an old Toyota color that turned out not to be close. So we had to resort to flipping through binders of paint chips to find something. Eventually we settled on one that was really the only color in the ballpark. From some angles it's right on, from other angles it's too dark. But that's the best I could do. Testing it on the car it looks much closer to the existing exterior color. Not perfect, but better than the bright blue I sprayed.






Talking to the guys at the paint shop (only automotive paint..they knew their stuff), they recommended that I not shoot another layer of sealer/primer. With the underlying paint being a blue color it will take less of the new paint to cover correctly. This paint should cover the incorrect blue without any issue according to them.

Started scuffing all the door jambs again tonight. Great fun. I hope to mask this weekend and spray Monday.

-Kevin

The seats are looking beautiful. I'm really impressed by your methodical approach to redoing them.

When I talked to SMS last, they said that they had to weave more fabric for me (even though they had 10+ yards of it available when I ordered). They said it was coming back from the weavers and that they would get it out in the next week. That was 2-3 weeks ago. So we'll see. I'll believe it when I see it.

-Kevin

Yeah I found the correct mixing after looking online.

I'm going to be checking out two other places about an hour and a half away this coming weekend if they are open. One of them looks like it caters to restorers and hobbyists.

Can I spray over fresh single stage after scuffing it up? Or do I need to do another sealer layer?

Quote:

They used the camera on the fuel door and ran it through the computer. I think they were looking for modern paint code matches and they didn't come up with anything.

I asked the guy there how to use their mixing cup to measure 4:1:1 when it said 4:1:10%:1. He had no idea. That didn't inspire much confidence in their abilities to give me a paint match.