Hmmm...good info.

I will inspect the shaft and inside bore of the pedals (again) to see if there is any wear. I will also try to see if I can find any bushings of the proper bore to shim the outside of the pedals to bring them inboard a bit.

I originally tried to file the outboard side of each hole however that would have required a bit of filing and the holes would have been too wide to be "normal".

THANKS AGAIN and I will report back.

>I don't understand why you timed to 11? BTDC, spec is more like 6?.

I originally tried 6 BTDC however the engine had OK-ish manifold vacuum and OK performance. I advanced it to get the best engine idle vacuum. I will try a couple of high engine power passes (low RPM and full throttle in high gear) to see if it pings...if so I will retard ignition timing.

In regular cars (non-70 year old-ish cars) you adjust the low RPM ignition timing to get the most manifold vacuum and then adjust the high RPM low manifold vacuum ignition timing (full throttle mid RPM to high RPM passes) to get the timing such that there is no pinging.

Hi All,

Are there any good engine guys out there who can help me diagnose an rough running engine???

Here is a video of the vacuum gauge with the engine running at various engine speeds:

https://youtu.be/1YYV77zbxog

The engine is a 1949 Packard Straight Eight and it was just rebuilt. I just adjusted the valves hot and replaced the spark plugs. All cylinders were compression tested and all are within 107 and 118 PSI during a hot compression test (spark plugs out and 5 compression strokes).

Can anyone PLEASE offer some suggestions/advice???

THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!

Bill

After putting this thing all back together one (of the many) problems I am having is that the clutch arm and brake arm are both hitting the metal firewall plate.

I made sure that the bushings (copper looking washers) for the clutch/brake lever shaft were installed in the same position as previous however once the two levers found their natural position on the shaft that the two levers would barely scrape on the metal firewall plate.

I thought I could simply move the plate on the firewall however because the spring on the shaft sits between the clutch lever and the brake lever it pushes both away from each other to the point where the clutch lever will scrape on the outboard side of its hole in the plate and the brake lever will scrape on the inboard side of its hole.

What is the fix?

Does one (me) need to buy bushings and place them to the left of the clutch lever and to the right of the brake lever to move each inboard sufficiently to reduce the scraping?

THANKS AGAIN!!!

(this is the same post that appears in the V8 Forum however there are some REALLY SMART guys who frequent this forum so I thought I would ask here as well)

I just installed PS in a 1949 Packard.

The modified system uses a 1953 Chrysler 6V Generator that has a PS Pump attached to the back of it and the other end of the hoses is a Monroe external hydraulic actuator that is installed in lieu of the center link and this is the unit that the 1955 Packard used for PS.

The Chrysler manual specified SAE-10W however the Packard manual specifies "Ultramatic" fluid (also called Type A fluid however some say Type F can be used as a replacement).


Does anyone know what kind of fluid I should use???I was reading the PS Training Manual and it says to use Type A Automatic Transmission Fluid.

I had already installed regular "Power Steering Fluid" in the system. Is this an OK practice or should I drain it all and replace with ATF...and if so what type of ATF (Dextron or Type F)?

THANKS!!!

The car needed an alignment prior to the modification. The camber is way out (can see it visually).

Yes...I installed a Monroe PS unit. This contraption is an externally mounted hydraulic ram rod that is installed in lieu of the center link (cross tube) and the control valve is integral with the unit and the pitman arm when it is moved by the steering wheel ports the fluid to either side of the actuator.

The pump is a Chrysler 6V generator with a PS pump mounted on the back.

I just installed PS in a 1949 Packard.

The modified system uses a 1953 Chrysler 6V Generator that has a PS Pump attached to the back of it and the other end of the hoses is a Monroe external hydraulic actuator that is installed in lieu of the center link and this is the unit that the 1955 Packard used for PS.

The Chrysler manual specified SAE-10W however the Packard manual specifies "Ultramatic" fluid (also called Type A fluid however some say Type F can be used as a replacement).


Does anyone know what kind of fluid I should use???I was reading the PS Training Manual and it says to use Type A Automatic Transmission Fluid.

I had already installed regular "Power Steering Fluid" in the system. Is this an OK practice or should I drain it all and replace with ATF...and if so what type of ATF (Dextron or Type F)?

THANKS!!!

I am going to do a thorough run at adjusting the valves and setting the ignition timing today.

With respect to the ignition timing...Reading the manual leads me to believe the following...

-Engine should be warmed up and idling at 500 RPM

-Vacuum advance pipe disconnected at the base of the carburetor

-Timing should be set to 7 degrees of advance.

Does one then also check the timing at higher engine speed and if so what should the timing max mechanical advance be at 2000 RPM (6 initial plus 9 mechanical = 15 total)?


I can see the vacuum advance is moving so my guess is that it is OK however is there a procedure to check to ensure that it is applying sufficient vacuum advance at low engine loads?

My timing light is designed for 12V cars and it does work however the light is not very bright.

Any advice or tips is greatly appreciated!!!

Thank you.

I will start it this morning and record the oil pressure readings at low idle, fast idle, and higher RPM. Still messing around with the choke.

The electromatic clutch on my dads car works amazingly well. The engagement is amazingly smooth and very surprising that the pedal moves in and out on it's own and all you have to do is move the lever.