I've heard someone describe a dual ignition 6 as a 12 - "just count the spark plugs". I think the "1941 V8" comment came from someone who didn't think about what the "V" meant.

The 356 replaced the 12. I'd argue it was more than up to comparison with the Cadillac flathead V8 of that time.

The Packard conversion was from long stroke, flathead, inline 8 to short stroke, overhead valve V8. I think the Ultramatic work took up resources first.

some initial loss of plasticizing oil might be reversible, but the oxidation you have by now is not.

to resurrect an old topic, I've seen what I believed to be original car/original engine 288's in green as well as gray.

But to the first point, don't try to match paint from a scanned chip - it's not even close to accurate.

I have had very good experience with the engine enamel mentioned - I think this is a good place to pay a few $ for an existing solution. It might be workable to match the gray, but I've seen generic green paint jobs and if you encounter another Packard you will immediately note the difference. The correct color is a gray shade green without much yellowmore of a sage - it looks nothing like 50's Olds V8 or Duesy greens.

at the risk of pedantically beating this to death:

vulcanizing cross-links the rubber - it has nothing to do with attaching it to the metal, which is a separate thing(although they can be done in the same process, I believe).

My own experience is with the 1941 running boards - as you see on the photos in this string, they follow the contours of the metal. On some older boards, the mat profile creates the pattern on a flat metal substrate. Spray-up womt work on these.

The Steele mats were two extruded EPDM rubber profiles, and 2 outer corner caps. They don't make them anymore (not sure why). You stuck them to the boards and there are seams.

The spray PU is a newer method and gives a seamless appearance, although typically a little shinier than original. It does cross-link, but not technically by vulcanization. Again see the photos for some nice jobs.

I think this comes down to understanding the original pattern and how it was achieved.

have you asked Steele if they used to make them? For example, they don't list the 41 mats but used to. IMO, if your mat design follows the metal shape, the spray polyurethane can work really well. If the mat pattern is raised and attached to a plain steel, you need the extruded and caps.

unrestored T style steering wheels (the K wheels are scarcer)are pretty easy to find. You can decide on a credible home restoration or they can be professionally done. You can do a decent job yourself if the splined socket that goes on the steering column is OK.

looks like the 41-42 Junior plastic

Let's call this what it is - rod or restore? This group cringes at rodding a Senior car. Putting the body on another chassis does mean it will never be a Packard again, as it's not financially viable to reverse. You're parting it out at that stage.

Once you know the "usual suppliers", most mechanical parts are available (a few things like 356 lifters and carb may be harder) - I got carb parts overnight when I had an inconveniently timed problem.

I'm going to suggest that if the goal is a "catalog car" like a Ford, Chevy, Model A, Mustang where fenders and grilles are mailed out same day, sell the Packard and get one. The volume of cars will never permit Packards to be like that.

to be a bit politically incorrect, restricting shoulder "exposure" to safety-related incidents by excluding revenue collection might help .....

'Cuz if we called it a "cold leg heater" it would sound funny :)