I've just started the long anticipated, and maybe dreaded, engine removal and rebuild process. That's a story for another time.

The engine in my 22nd series is an "H" engine. So it is not original. ...and I've already seen some signs of poor previous work. So as I'm tearing this down, I noticed that the intake has a "288" cast into it, on the top? Is this an incorrect intake? I looked in the Hollander book and they list two different intakes for the standard and supers.

Also-How can I tell if this engine has hydraulic lifters/tappets? I thought that I remember reading that there is an "H" at the end of the engine serial. My engine code is a "H405250". So no hydraulics?

Thanks!

Mark

Hi everyone,

Has anyone ordered/replaced their wiring? If so, what harness supplier did you go with?

I found these three:

http://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/

http://harnessesunlimited.com/

http://www.narragansettreproductions.com/

Thanks,

Mark

Kev, maybe you answered your own question... If you break the existing mirror/glass and remove it. You could take the unit to to glass shop to get the new one cut. You could have them cut it to the correct size, with a slight back bevel and see if you can press it in, using a piece of wood the same size. That might spread the outer edges of the metal apart to allow it to "snap in". Throw the unit in the oven perhaps to help it expand a bit. Throw the glass in the freezer.

Otherwise if you get the new piece cut a little smaller, you could probaby "weasel" it in there and center it. I'm assuming that there is glue on the back of these.

Or do a combination of all of the above. Just throwing some idea-ers out there.

Good luck,

Mark

Just as a note... The haulers for the auto manufacturers put the cars in park, with the parking brake on. A manual trans is put in reverse with the brake on also.

But I guess that someone can question the drivelines on the older cars.

For me personally, if I ever had straps snap, come loose, or unhook, I would prefer the "pig" on my "rig" (as we call it) to be in gear (beyond a parking brake). I feel a little bit safer with that. Just my opinion.

Good luck,

Mark

I was going to suggest a winch too. ...but after purchasing the correct rated winch and mounting and wiring it from the battery of the tow vehicle, you may have only saved yourself a couple of hundred dollars from the $1000 for the door in the trailer. ...assuming that you do it yourself. Don't forget, if you winch it up, you still should throw it in gear. So that would mean leaving a window open and using a 2x4 to depress the clutch while putting it into gear.

I have an 18ft open trailer. ...and I have about $650 invested in my winch and wiring/mounting gear. I have yet to install it. Depending upon the car, the doors (when opened) sometimes hit the trailer's wheel fenders. That's why they sell the "removable" fenders. I didn't know that until I loaded it for the first time.

Maybe you can find the manufacturer of the trailer doors, purchase it, and install it yourself. I would think that all you need is a reciprocating saw, a drill, a pop rivet gun (or screws) and some caulk. Try www.northerntools.com

Another thought... Cut a door opening yourself, and purchase some aluminum stock from Home Depot to frame the opening and the door slab itself (for rigidity). Instead of hinges, you could bolt it on.

Just throwing some thoughts/ideas out there.

Good luck,

Mark

All,

I have a 22nd 141wb seven passenger (super 8) with an engine that will need a rebuild. Can I drop a 356cu in that body, or is that engine (custom 8) block longer? I'm assuming that I would need the carb, dist and possibly transmission to match the custom engine. ...or would they use the same clutch/trans?

Thanks,

Mark

Did Henney replace the original Packard tag, or was it mounted below the Packard tag?

Thanks,

Mark

Did Henney put any tags on the cars that they built/modified? If so, where? I would assume on the firewall? A previous poster mentioned something about a tag in a picture, but I'm not sure what picture he is referring to.

Thanks,

Mark

Ray,

Good to hear that you will keep it forever. I am resoting my grandfather's first new car (1949 standard) that still has the 1957 Chicago city sticker on it (when it ran last) ...and I know it will never leave the family. ...and I will prolly pay twice it's worth to restore it.

I also need to overhaul my 1949 7 pass. There again, prolly paying twice it's worth.

I once heard a "car collector" (on an TV auction I believe) say that the only car that he lost money on was one that he had to have work done to it. ...as someone said, these cars do deteriorate, so work will always have to be done to them. I would consider that "car collector" a "car trader", with that attitude.

That's my .02. I do not want to offend anyone on this site as it a great site.

Mark

I don't consider myself an expert, nor have I looked at everything for sale out there. But I have been looking at various makes and models, and I don't really see that asking prices have dropped from 2-3 years ago.

I have noticed over the past 8 years or so, many of the cars for sale in Hemmings are being sold by dealers. ...and then there is the rising number of auction houses advertising.

E-bay asking prices are always high. The "buy it now" prices are way over price guide estimates. ...and the resereves are high too.