So we (I) got the engine running and it looked like during the engine break in that the oil pressure was real good...40-50 PSI at high speed idle...

The engine has ran for about 1 cumulative hour with no strange noises and now however the oil pressure is more like 20 PSI at idle (according to the gauge) when the engine is either hot or cold. We are running straight 30 weight.

Naturally there can be something bad going on inside the engine to cause the low oil pressure...or there could be a spring issue inside the oil pump...or...an indicator problem.

I will go out tomorrow and install a mechanical oil pressure gauge however...to sleep better...is there something to look at in the oil pump and pressure relief spring? It looks like I can access the oil pump without major drama and it looks like there is a provision to access the spring and/or adjust the pressure?

Has anyone done this that can give any advice?

An alignment is now needed since I installed the power steering.

Since the car also has radials in addition to the power steering does anyone have any suggestions for the alignment specs?

THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!

I finally got around to putting the hood back on only to discover that the Wix air filter Wix 46094 is too tall and the air cleaner lid hits the bottom of the hood.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a shorter 8 inch round airfilter? The Wix 46041 is shorter (1 3/4) and round however it is a bit too wide (9 1/8) to fit correctly in the air cleaner however it would work in a pinch.

Getting closer...

What are tappet wrenches?

Wow...the Peter Toet valve adjusting procedure looks really good!!!

For solid lifter cams the tappet lash should be set warm at .007 Inlet and .010 Exhaust. With respect to the exhaust, Peter advocates one thousands extra clearance for the exhaust to assist in exhaust valve cooling so therefore it should actually be set to .011.

THANKS AGAIN...you guys have bee SUPER HELPFUL!!!

Interesting info Tim.

Does anyone have the chart that Owen describes? It bet it is based on firing order.

thanks all... I'll report back tomorrow

It cannot be this difficult!!!

I've been working on cars for 32 years and have done lots of MAJOR projectsso I'm not new to cars...just Packards.

Anyhoo I did get the transmission out... had to removerthe governor and overdrive solenoid, remove the steering crosstube (center link), disconnect and move to the side the exhaust pipe, disconnect the column shifter to engine bracket links, even disconnect the temp sender wire so that I could drop the tail end of the engine down to a sufficient angle so I could slide the transmission back far enough so that the input shaft would clear the bell housing... the problem was that if the engine was in its normal position then when I slid the transmission back to remove it the overdrive case would interfere with the chassis cross member (the chassis has an X structure between the side rails and this is the part where the drive shaft exits through) .

I could simply not get the transmission to slide back far enough so that it would clear the bell housing.

The manual does not describe how to remove the transmission.

This cant be right. I have a two post lift and a transmission jack and it was this difficult.

I tried to remove the overdrive housing however it looks like the mechanic who rebuilt it used sealant to seal the overdrive unit to the transmission housing so I could not get that to come off when it was up inside the
tunnel.

I like the idea of using pilot bolts to help guide the transmission home... thanks!!!

Has anybody removed
the transmission with the overdrive attached?

THANKS
!!!

Does one have to remove the overdrive unit to be able to remove the transmission so as to get out the clutch?

It seems that if I try try to move the transmission far enough back so that I could have the input shaft far enought aft to slide out of the bell housing I can't get the transmission far enough back because the overdrive case hits the X frame.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

Now that the engine has run for an accumulative hour I think it is time to do a hot valve adjustment.

Can anybody please provide some tios, suggestions, and techniques on doing this procedure?

THANKS