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It is indeed what some consider the famous and others the infamous BTV.

Very Carefully. Seriously, I believe it is wool and would be a bit careful with the steam and water. Steam is generally used to shrink the wrinkles out for that perfect fit so who knows if there is more shrink left-even after all this time. The material may be in good shape but usually the cotton thread used to sew the panels together or bow support tapes to the material is pretty fragile so doesn't take too much force to break. If the material is stained from moisture condensing on the steel roof and dropping down & soaking, don't think much improvement will be made. Most steel roof undersides I've seen after headliner removal have been pretty rusty so would suspect yours too. Have you tried gently brushing the moldy looking spots to see if anything comes loose.

And another lense.http://thehotrodgirl.stores.yahoo.net/56patale.html Kanter advertises gr 4.1600 reproduction assy's.

Would be an interesting question and possibly might get an answer but still a 50+ year old out of production car and item. While millions made, would expect substantially all are long gone so not much urgency. Almost everything is considered obsolete here in 10-15 years--some much less than that so still doubt there would be any interest.

Quote: Not quite sure what the question is but I am hoping he finds something, but not expecting it. As to any agency, I don't know what is here that would be interested in a 60 year old long out of business car company in that respect--and at any rate, am sure it wouldn't be free if there is such a place.

In order to suck fluid, would expect a severely pitted piston rod or cracked & damaged seal but would think that would be noticed in spongy brakes beforehand. Because of mounting angle, don't think enough would be drained out to have complete failure--but can't prove that so another reason for his evaluation as to whether any fluid & where. It is possible if fluid completely empty in cylinder, something external to BTV is the issue.

Since the failure was so sudden and if it is BTV, I am leaning more toward the compensator valve--either sediment and junk in the lower cylinder which because of the mounting angle floats up and lodges directly under the valve lip preventing it from closing tightly, or as others have mentioned many times, the small spring & clip that keeps the valve in position is usually not replaced in a rebuild and might be either broken or the clip holding spring to the rod dislodged. If the valve itself wasn't replaced with the rebuild, it might also be at fault.

At any rate, no matter what the system be it manual or power, catastrophic failures can happen. I had a manual 64 Chevelle fail and went gliding thru a 4 way stop. Would still like to see if we can come up with something bolt in or minimal mod for the Packards though for just these types of situations and people that have lost confidence. So far, while there have been solutions, except for Craigs they all require more changes than I think the average owner would consider. The BTV replacement advertised may be a viable option but I no longer have a test car to play with. Am considering buying one and trying superficial fit, but my car isn't apart & hasn't gone further than the driveway in years so with 4 square tires, it won't get tested. Not having any heavy fabrication skills or equipment like Eric or Craig will also be an issue.

Someone asked if earlier years were also prone to failure, and I can't answer that but they sure do not get the airplay the V8 does. The only major difference I can think of is heat is on the other side of engines in earlier cars whereas V8's have an exhaust manifold very close so maybe that has something to do with it.

Not sure what else is included in kit but seems a bit high for what is shown. Great Plains Packards region of PAC advertises an AC 6v pump with fittings, mountings and instructions for $75 postpaid in latest Cormorant News Bulletin. Summit racing has a Carter GP4259 6 volt rotary with all the mounting for $99-- although that may not be satisfactory for your needs since it would also require some extra pieces and plumbing if you are just wanting something inline to use with the existing mechanical pump for a backup.

Wasn't underneath brought up some months ago and Craig mentioned he had looked into that possibility but the V8 frame depth was marginal for a vacuum booster. Believe he said it would mean something hanging down or else making a hump in the floor for proper clearance.

Craig, Not having driven your car, I can't comment on pedal location but don't doubt that it is quite satisfactory. What I am referring to is the pictures you have on your site showing the modifications to get the ratio. Unless you've changed it, that is what I think would be objectionable since it's so noticeably different and not Packard, calling attention there's a modification.

There are modern remote systems available from Hydrovacs to electrics. Problem with converting to manual is finding the conversion pieces. Non power brake V8 parts cars seems to be the minority and earlier years would have some issues in components and placement due to the torsion level. There is also the difference in pedal height and look which some might object to and you're taking it out of bolt in and talking lots of work going that way.

No argument the Packard location sucks. Question is with a remote fill and assuming the overall length isn't prohibitive, even though designed for flat surface would the replacement have any other issues at such an angle. Craig's seems to work so first guess would be no but am not really up on details of modern booster/cylinder operation or limitations.