PV8 Do you remember which vehicle your compressor is for--or is it several years old? Seems the aftermarket guys have stopped selling single groove. The usual generic aftermarkets available now are either 2 groove, wide groove or serpentine. The only A4 size belt groove I can find is on the new Sanden modular series which are pricy and special order.

Guess you could try the paint but I just don't think a paint could be found that wouldn't scream paint because of the heavy pigment.

One possibility and I've never tried and don't know how the fiberglass would take to it is fabric dye. RIT makes several colors you mix with boiling water--don't know if the pad could be saturated without falling apart but maybe sprayed. If sprayed though, you'd only be coating the top layer so any de-lamination or holes and the yellow would show thru.

Another thing to consider is color--would be almost as obvious as paint or the yellow if the gray color is terribly wrong.

Sorry nothing looked like it would work. I don't remember the 120 tank well but was thinking some looked promising for the 51-6 & maybe earlier.

The original factory 55-6 AC had a fixed temperature maintained by another valve just under the expansion valve.

Once turned on, the compressor ran all the time and temp regulation of the evaporator was done by the valve opening the suction and pressure lines to each other--otherwise known as hot gas bypass.

The dash knob just turned on the clutch and fan & continued turning of knob changed the fan speed with the rheostat. Your temp choice was fairly cold air blowing from slow to high speed--no levers.

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Agree 100% to check the cable first, but a few posts earlier he had unhooked the cable & noise had stopped. Also had mentioned he couldn't check for any erratic speedo action because the needle had fallen off.

Here's the spare engine link although a bit far from Oregon..
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=18168#forumpost18168

Kev, thought of you when I saw this. Apparently the fellow had one of those days and hid it in the code. Think it's kind funny--could that be called an blasted easter egg. Ever have one of those days?

From theregister.co.uk

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Loyd,

don't want to be too nosy but have been giving this same issue a lot of thought for several months. My fact AC is in-operative and parts NLA. Have had a few ideas about adapting a modern unit to look as original as possible.

Just curious what original controls you have left in your car. Did your car originally have the fact AC with control which was just an on/off and rheostat for the blower in the dash? What type do you have in the way of current you would need to use. Electronic or mechanical or which AC unit do you have?

If something could be made work, what existing controls would you like to use for the added.

Service manual is very limited -- just shows how to change entire unit. There is currently on ebay a CD containing a King Seeley repair manual which would go into more detail. Even though it's for the 40s era the principal would be the same.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PACKARD-SPEEDOMETER-REPAIR-and-PARTS-MANUAL-1947-1948_W0QQitemZ270329718551QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item270329718551&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

Issue would be getting parts. Think the best bet is to send yours to a rebuilder or start looking for a complete speedo. Possibly your Clipper unit would have the piece, but it is precision and not easily worked on without tools and expertise. There is a hair spring which would need to be precisely adjusted as well so unit is calibrated.

The pictures are of a 54 unit but again, while principal is the same, construction is different. In pict 365 you see an aluminum cup with a rectangular piece on the outside. 364 is the underside and you see a magnet inside the cup and the rectangular piece. While nothing actually touches, the cup is rotated by the induced effect of the magnet & rectangular piece and is connected to the needle. What I suspect has happened is something has broken allowing the cup to shift and drop so the magnet is touching it while rotating.

As to your other gauge, don't think there is much hope without the needle. Again, it is a precision piece.


EDIT: Don't have a 56 unit to look at in detail, & don't remember exactly how that needle attaches. If just pressed onto end of stem like this one, wonder if the fact the collar & needle is not there has allowed the cup to slide back where it can touch. Might be worth taking your unit out and see exactly what has happened. Maybe as simple as pressing the needle back on. There is also a lube hole that could probably use a drop of light 3 in 1 type oil as well.

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I don't recall ever seeing any clip art of just logos and things of that nature. Believe PAC owns most of the rights so maybe someone else more versed in that can help.

If for yourself, maybe the best approach would be to scan something you like and go that route--or possibly buy one of the reproduction "Packard Service" signs from swap meets or vendors. Have seen several versions of those & maybe something like that would fit your needs.