Assuming the brake backing plates have been removed the only impediment in removing the axle is the drag between the axle housing and the bearing cup. Packard controlled that fit to have only a few tenths tight or a few tenths loose, so a few taps with a slide hammer should do the trick. In the ‘Literature Archive’ section of this site there are several shop manuals that cover the details. Since you’re changing the bearings be mindful of shimming the bearing clearance. The ‘as disassembled’ configuration may not correct with the new parts. An item that is not in the shop manuals is the ‘tribal wisdom’ of checking the axle nut torque after using the car for about 100 miles. Because of the possibility of the thrust block to rotate, I would advise the removal of one axle at a time (see the ’54 shop manual).
dp

I tried one of those electronic noise makers, and the damn rodents bit the wires off!
I then tried peppermint oil in a small tin. Later I switched to Altoids peppermint mints. I haven’t had any more rodent evidence since switching to either form of peppermint, but their food source may have run-out and they just moved away.
There are internet content sources that think highly of peppermint to keep the mice from destroying a car, either interior or under hood wiring. Of course, kinetic energy is also an effective means.
dp

53 Cavalier . . . well done! I assume you still have the ‘215’ arm installed.

By the way, the operational description in ACDelco distributor patent US2187070 contains enough detail to conclude that both the high and low stops of the vacuum chamber are implemented by the geometry of the arm (‘operating member’ in Delco speak). The slot in the arm and its interference with the mounting bracket are the stops. There are no references to spring shims in the patent operational description. The subject patent is for the bracket made of sheet stock, but I suspect the cast bracket retained the same design intent.

dp

Doc

On page 26 of the carburetor training book (available on this site) is a photograph of some of the details in that area of the WDO. The graphic is actually depicting the adjustment of the anti-percolator valves, but if you enlarge sufficiently the spring (61-120) can be seen mounted on the metering rod pin (150-81). What is not shown are the free ends of the spring, which simply loop around the metering rods. IIRC I build the entire rod/spring/pin/piston sub-assembly and install in the body. With the spring in-place in takes a bit of fiddling to align the metering rods, but once the air horn is in place the rods cannot dis-engage. If you want the spring free ends can be looped around the metering rods once you’re confident the rods are centered in the jet. Keep those small brass washers in-place . . . I think the design intent is that the washers will keep stones from falling into the jets which is possible (ask the man) with carburetors that use un-filtered air for air bleeds and float bowl venting.

dp

Wow, what a nice-looking A! Sounds like a car that has achieved the well-deserved ‘family heirloom’ status.

Bob J
Looks like a very clean ‘30, or early ‘31 Murray. The holes for the cowl lights suggest a deluxe model, but the window garnish moldings would be a better tell to determine standard v. deluxe. Much like the Packard offerings the majority of the differences between the two models were in upgraded interior finishes that may not have stood the test of time. If the body is still ‘off’ you may want to document the stampings on the upper surface of the frame which are hidden when the body is installed.

For those unfamiliar with Model A’s the photo showing the body on the way to the body shop has the fuel tank installed, while the photo taken after the body was painted has the tank removed. The village wisdom has it that the Attorney Generals of the north eastern states were none too pleased with fuel tank mounting location and began actions that would inhibit sales of automobiles that retained that design feature. Note in ‘32 the Model B’s fuel tank was in the back of the car, and the engine block had a provision to mount a fuel pump, which is the same design concept as the Model 18 V-8 cars produced first in ‘32.

My experience with the adjustable wheel dollies started with moving a trike around the garage (it’s much easier to drive a trike forward versus backing up). After following this thread for a while, I tried a dolly to help reinstalling a tire on my Suburban. I’ll never do that job the old way again.

dp

Mopar_Earl if you do proceed with both the TV replacement and the front disk brakes would you consider the power brake swap first? I’m thinking there are a lot of forum members that would like to know if the power brake swap is acceptable with a drum / drum equipped car. I’m just thinking off the top of my head, but for a driveway stop or two wouldn’t a robust adjustment of the brake drag negate the need of a residual pressure valve for the front circuit? IIRC there was a poster that put together a front disk set-up from Ford pick-up parts that had the same wheel lug geometry.
dp

Moodydavied16

The ‘flat disk’ valve is known as a ‘Daytona design’. The only downside of this design is the use of ‘extra’ seat gaskets to set the float level. While float level setting is covered in the Daytona directions, and millions of Zenith carburetors use ‘extra’ gaskets to set the float level, on occasion the tab on the float will not be set to touch the center of the Daytona valve. Excessive side force will result in a leaking valve, and engine flooding will likely follow. Since the valve is free of rotate the depression in the seat may appear to be the same all the way around, but that pesky side force may still be the culprit. IMO the flooding and idle problem are likely related.

In your second picture the valve in the lower right looks a lot like the accelerator pump check valve.

dp

HHP
I would think Evapo-Rust would remove the 'red rust' and then allow a much better visual inspection. If what remains is a bunch of pits located where the rubbing block doesn't touch the cam then that's OK
DP

I’m thinking the rubbing block may not mind a few pits along the way, especially when the block is off of the cam.