The rear stabilizer bar was the only part my car (2362) that was missing when I bought it. Since it's the "bar" type (not shock absorber type) It should be a simple part to fabricate, but pictures of the connecting mount anchor on the driver's side have evaded me for over 3 years now (like these 2 have).

If anyone has any details, experience in making and/or pictures that could be shared it would be very much appreciated!

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I'm only a month or so away from completing my 1950 8Deluxe sedan and when I started it on 8/8/11 I kept a "sequence list" so I could back-track in the reassembly process (which is by far the most fun part). My budget was $100 per week so I kept up with every penny spent in a spreadsheet. Had to add a few $k when the chrome plating bills started but other than that was able to stay within budget. PM me and I'll be glad to share these with you if you think they would be helpful.

First glance of the "just installed" brand new floor mat!

The car is still at the interior shop and she wanted it in to fit the rear carpet and kick panels under and over it. We're expecting the mat to eventually relax and fit better to the floorboard. I will be posting more pictures after I get it home with the interior complete.

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Here's a bit of info (that I believe to be accurate) -

If you're replacing the fuel lines, The radius of a beer keg is close and easy to get a good clean bend between the carb and the fuel pump. At least it looked correct on my '50 Eight Deluxe when I replaced it last year.

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Another floor covering question that I can't find any pictures to confirm:

In the 23rd cloth interiors, does the carpet stop at the rear seat or does it continue under and is covered by the rear seat bottom?

- Thanks all!

Did you get your windows and trim replaced?

I just finished replacing all glass, trim, channels and dust strips on my 2362 so let me know. It was my first "total" window job and it went much easier than I anticipated.

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Hi Ken,

Usually I'm in the "post-war" forums but ran into your project blog once and really enjoy catching up on your updates. Congratulations dad! (better late than never). He's now getting old enough to help you with the "37 - right? Also, many thanks for serving (from an x-jarhead to a squid ). Hope all your assignments are good ones!

- Your comments about the cracks caught my eye cause I had the same in my 23rd eight cooling jacket. I had good luck repairing it and posted some pictures and comments on one of your other blogs - here .

Good luck on your project - and everything else.
Looking forward to hearing more
- Sam

I've used the lock-n-Stitch for an 8" (to finally 15") crack in my cooling jacket. Highly recommend it. Since I had no experience with this type repair I got in touch with a tech with the company who was very helpful and informative. A training DVD also came with the order and makes the process look simple - and it was - just took a lot of time and patience. I tried to save some $ and first ordered the incorrect pins for my application and ended up making the crack longer. Finally had to complete it with the correct c-type pins.

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I agree with West on the "to neat" problem, but I've seen pictures of metal stamping that was a long way from authentic looking plus the font was wrong. I'm pretty sure the maker used silk-screen to make mine, so cleaning and polishing the old plate to "re-print" the black may be the best of both worlds.
- Anyway I kept my original as it was.

I would like to know about the screws as Owen mentioned. Which is correct - flat or phillips?

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ok - well this is what I ended up with.
I searched through MS office fonts and decided on "Centry Gothic" (bold), when by the local Office Max - and after a few sizing trials and voila!
- I hope it's close to authentic!

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