My 37 120 speedometer started to tick some time ago and I read or was told that the ticking sound was an indication that the speedo cable was hanging up. The speedometer seemed to be working fine except for the ticking hiccups.

Then recently there was a louder snap and the speedometer stopped working. Today I pulled the speedometer cable out and found that it was tied in knots at both ends. The transmission end had broken at the speedo gear but the cable was in a knot above it. The speedo end was not necessarily in knots but had folded itself over a couple of times.

With both ends screwed up, I am starting to believe the problem is in the speedo head. Any one else experienced this problem and how did you solve it? I assume the speedo is bolted in from the back side of the dash?

Thanks for any help or ideas,

Rod

I was able to remove the gauge assembly without dropping the tank 100%. I had to drop the straps and let the tank drop down on a jack but did not have to remove the filler neck. Tight squeeze but doable. Once out of the tank, you can run a jumper wire from the unit to the chassis and then move the arm up and down to make sure that the dash gauge is responding accordingly. I wouldn't do this directly over the gauge hole in the tank as you might get a spark!

Rod

I am impressed with your efforts to make the auto choke work properly. I gave up! Instead, I made an adaptor to allow my Throttle control cable to be hooked up to the choke mechanism on the carb and disconnected the linkage to the thermostat.

I had no use for the throttle as I do not drive the car in the winter and really do not need a choke except to start the car when cold so the modified throttle/choke linkage works out great for me.

Rod

My 37 120 coupe convertible had the same problem. Removed the gauge and found that the cork floats (there are two corks on the lever) had water (gas) logged.

I ordered two replacement corks from Snyders Antique Auto Parts and no more problems. I had previously made the same repair to my 1918 Cadillac. Both cars are doing fine with the new floats.

Snyders' part number is A-9313-C. They say the floats are made of "modern material that is resistant to ethanol, the last float you'll ever need to buy!" I believe they are correct.

Rod

Thanks for all the help. I have the radio and heater out so that makes for a lot more room under the dash. I can see the vacuum motor and the linkage arms and lots of wire. Yes, I will have to take the spring off the vent but that does not look too difficult.

I am beginning to think that the vac motor is also the wrong unit for the car. It is hanging down and touching the light socket for the dash lights. So, the work continues and grows!!

Thanks for the door handle information. I thought that the handles were wrong after reading in the forum files about how to take the lock cylinders out of the handles and my handles did not have the "little hole." The handles are currently off the car. Before I reinstall them, I will see if I can find correct replacements. Anybody of any ideas as to where to find them?

I inspected the door latches and found that the inside door handles have plenty of spring pressure to return them after opening the door. It seems to be the outside handles that are sticky or is there another spring that returns them independently from the inside handles?

Again, thanks for all the help,

Rod

I purchased a 37 120 coupe convertible about a year ago and am still trying to work out the bugs. I am currently working on the door handles and wipers. The wipers are not working and the handles droop!! I am begining to wonder if the handles and wipers are correct for the car. Pictures are attached of both.

The wiper arms say, "Canada 1937" on the wiper end.
The wipers say, "universal" on the attachment piece.
The handles say, "Automotive Hdwe Co, Chicago" on the under side.

Does anyone know if the wipers are correct, where I can get replacement wipers or where to get correct wipers?

Does anyone know how to take the handles apart so that I can get the square shafts out of the lock mechanism? There is slop in the handles which is part of my handle drooping problem.

Has anyone had experience removing the wiper motor from under the dash?

Thanks for your expert advise,

Rod

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update! I replaced the "new needle valve" on the float with the original one after soaking it and the seat in carb cleaner for a week. It appears to be doing a better job then the "new needle valve" that came with the carb kit. The old needle valve is all metal and pointed. The new valve was flat with a elastomer insert and the seat was ridged to press into the elastomer.

I think the car is running better with the old valve! I have solved the vapor lock problem with the electric fuel pump. I took the car on about a 50 mile round trip this weekend and it performed well except I did capture some gaso in the pan I put under the carb so everything is not 100% but I am getting closer.

Tried the diesel fuel in the gaso. Waste of diesel and time. The vapor lock problem was about same but the electric fuel pump took care of the problem.

Thanks for all your help and suggestions. I am getting closer and will let you know if I find the solution.

Rod

I put in about 5% diesel yesterday and went for a drive. The thunder storms in the area cooled things down so I do not know if it worked or not. I do know that I did not have to use the elect pump on the road up to my house which is better then the day before.

Rod

The engine just started to stumble and the extra pressure from the elect pump settled it right down. I found that I have a gallon or two of diesel fuel in my barn so will give the tank a shot of diesel fuel this afternoon and will do another test drive. Still hot here with change of dry lightning this afternoon. Not good for our very dry conditions!

Rod

Again, thanks for all the advise! I am trying them all. As for the float, it was dry when I rebuilt the carb a couple of months ago so I do not think is has a hole.

If the float was sinking and the bowl filling up, you would think that the easiest way out for the fuel excess would be the vent. The fact that I got a spray of fuel would suggest that the trapped fuel was under pressure which might suggest that the fuel was coming from the accelerator pump?

If the fuel was caused by say a vapor bubble in the fuel line to the carb, again I would think the fuel would have been released through the vent not the venturi? I will try the brick on the accelerator pedal suggestion!

I checked the carb at least three times during the test drive and I had no overflow problems until I arrived home. The car has to pull a pretty good grade getting to the house and I had to turn on the elect pump to keep from vapor locking the last 1/4 mile. So, the problem might have something to do with the pressured fuel line when I shut the car down?

Thanks again for all your support,

Rod