"If you like the look of the car, but are being brought down by the 60 year old machinery then hot rod it. There are plenty of 1950's Packards around that can use the spare parts."

This vehicle went through a total rotisserie restoration then put in an outbuilding. Every part was replaced and/or rebuilt using original parts. (engine/trans/rear/brakes/front end/interior etc). It has less than 5k miles on the total restoration. The poor fella pulled a heart attack a week after getting the restoration home. Fortunately he lived but the Pack ended up in storage for 15 years. He did take his grand daughter out for a ride which is why there was one set of seatbelts in the back seat. I envy him.

I took the car to a carburetor rebuild place to get the carb rebuilt (storage issues). The A**hole bent the linkage rods that control the transmission. Blew the trans on the Bay Bridge. Finally got an appointment to have an expert rebuild it. Cost a fortune but he did a good job.

In the meantime, when I got caught in traffic it would overheat. When I parked it and tried to restart it, it would go RRRRR click click click . Tried a 12V jump toasted the generator. Rebuilt the generator. Purchased a high cold crank 6V very expensive not much better than the fork lift battery it had originally.

No improvement RRRRRR click. 8 Tows later AAA no longer covers it. Converted to 12V ($100) now it starts great. Yeah I can overhaul it annually but at least it starts. Expect it to cost me about than a dollar a year for new brushes. I'll take the hit.

TRANS Update:
I discussed this with the best Trans guy I know and he thinks the Slick Sh*t may have destroyed the innards. Too much of a coincidence it failed a couple of hundred miles after the fluid was changed. Sounds to him like the intake filter/screen is totally clogged with whatever (clutch material ?). He (as a teen) only worked on a 57 Ultra so he isn't sure what is in this one and doesn't want to know. That's honest advise if I ever heard it.

I would ask if any of you are interested in purchasing this totally restored '50 but I know I would be better selling it for scrap.

All I really wanted to do is drive my friend around on her wedding day. She promised to get me a hat ! The day before was the memorable day on the bay bridge.

You tell me if I am being sarcastic or not.

Just a note... I am FAA certified with certifications in welding and Electro-mechanical systems. Have totally restored over 50 vehicles, in the past 30 years, that are all still on the road now. Like my friend I do not do transmissions especially ultramatics everything else is fair game.

On a positive note. How much trouble is it to swap the trans to a newer one ? Any idea on how expensive it will be ? Any automatic with overdrive options ?

OTG

Was wondering why Ross hadn't responded.

Well y'all with the 6volt systems. Glad the old RRRRRRRRRRR click click click click starter is gone. Now it is Click rev-rev and I am on the road. For the cost of replacing the 6v starter,generator, regulator, wires etc etc..
A $100 12V alternator+Battery works just fine for me. Now I can even get a deceint radio and halogen lamps.

Yeah Right go ahead and jump it with a 12 volt. Been there done that when I was in my teens. Gets expensive real quick depending on what you burn up.

Hopefully there aren't any young dumb lads out there reading this. They might actually try it.

Thanks for the info about the trans. Anyone have any info on hotrodding a '50 ?

OTG

Well now it doesn't go into any gear. Without checking my records I would guess the trans was rebuilt about 2-3 years ago. Didn't run it much because of overheating problems and the fact that I listened to the "Don't convert to 12volt"
group. Converted and 90% of my problems went away. Actually started and ran great. Got a new pertronix distributor insert, gas milage went up, Headlights are bright enough to see a deer when it is more than 10 feet ahead of the car.
For a daily driver convert it you will not be sorry ! It costs less to convert than it does to Muck with the stock crap that never runs right. Besides you can get a jump from a buddy when it won't start instead of a tow back to the shop. Ok now I have my gloves off ! LOL

Back to the transmission.. yes it was rebuilt by an expert.
I'll leave it at that. This is what REALLY bothers me.

Wondering if the trick-sh*t lacks the friction that type-F has or something stupid like that. I am not too proud to say that I screwed up. Seems every time I get someone to do something on any one of my vehicles I end up doing it again the correct way.

Really don't want to believe that for all the money that I put into that trans that it only lasted this long.

Maybe I shouldn't have listened to the "keep it stock" group and put a hemi or viper V10 in it day one and not had all this fun. This was the 5th time I took it to work (approx 12 miles) and didn't have to get a tow home.

Thinking about dumping all the fluid and replacing it with type F and seeing what happens. Any other ideas ?

If I sound terse I apologize. Not your fault I realize that.

Thanks
OTG

I read the post about using type-F transmission fluid and was wondering. I reciently replaced most of the trans fluid in my Ultramatic with trick-shift in order to hopefully clean out the governor. (post: od will not disengage).
Well this (TS trans fluid) worked when the trans had time to heat up. Still holds/stalls when cold. Could live with that except now the trans doesn't engage. If I put it in reverse (idle) it takes about 15 seconds till it very gently slides into gear (almost unnoticable) forget drive and or low it doesn't engage at all. Now do I go back to Type-F or is my rebuild with less than 200 miles on it trash ?

Yes there is fluid in it although that blue fluid is real hard to see on the dipstick. If I add any fluid it does end up on the floor BTW. Neat way to prevent the trans from being over filled.

Hopefully one of you has some good news.

Thanks
OTG

Thank you for the info.

I would like very much to purchase the one pictured.
Do I have to ask who the most favorite Packard parts dealer is?

OTG

The cable that attaches to the passenger wiper broke and I was able to remove it from most of cable attach points. The problem I am having is removing the cable from the unit that the wiper arm attaches to (wiper arm shaft?). The cable enters the unit over one pulley and goes around the shaft that turns the blade then exits over another pulley. Simple yet clever design. Problem is the cable will not pull free of the wiper arm shaft. If you pull the cable it will only go so far then stop. Whats holding the cable and how do I release it so the cable can be replaced ? First impulse is to force it, however I thought I would ask first.

Thanks for your help.

OTG

BTW: Got a new set of wiper blades on Ebay for $50. Sure beats $100+ from some other folks.

Your probably right. Would probably quickly become more trouble than its worth. Sent an email to Ficken. Probably hear back next week. Interested in what he has to say.

Funny that shop is around the corner from where my wife
was raised. Small world.

Thanks
OTG

Has anyone tried replacing the piece on the wiper where the arm attaches and using OTC wiper arms?

OTG

Anyone have any info on the wiper arms ?
Thanks
OTG

Can anyone tell me where I can get new wiper arms and blades for my '50 ? I purchased a set that were original, authentic and expensive, however they only clear the windshield at the very ends of the blades. What I am looking for is a set that is NOT "original and authentic" but functional.

Found one set but they cost over $100 which isn't going to happen. Any input would be most appreciated.

Thank you
OTG