I have uploaded a zip file of an mp4 video with audio of the vacuum, tach and click sound.

Attach file:

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VID_20241223_193357464.zip Size: 8,532.52 KB; Hits: 47

I still have the loud tick or chirp or whatever it is. I thought it might be a valve or guide but its not affected by adjusting the valves or placing the feeler between the valves and lifters. I thought it might be a lifter or the cam at a lifter but I can't localize the sound to the oil vent hole on any lifter.

I think the vacuum and RPM values and stability are very good. This makes me think there's not a problem with the valves. I think the compression is at least good.

I think the water spray has calmed down and I hope it was from the long idling. Some, but minimal bubbles at radiator fill. Hopefully, the water from the tail pipe was from combustion.

I re-torqued the head and manifolds during this process. I think I probably had some exhaust leaking due to the smoke around the manifolds when I sprayed Seafoam down the carburetor. I'd think you'd be able to isolate to 1/2/7/8 or 3/4/5/6 by spraying down one throttle valve or the other.

Pretty much everything on the car works correctly except the following (I don't count the radio and power antenna since I took out the radio, removed the front cover, mounted a 4"x6" tri-axial speaker and remounted the face of the radio inside the dash. I used a 6-24V 40W Bluetooth audio amp plugged into the new speaker. Any Android audio app can be used. I mostly use Sirius.)

Exceptions:
1. Car bogs a pretty good bit on acceleration. I replaced the vacuum advance module with a NOS. I trimmed a piece of tubing which I placed around the spring to limit travel and a vacuum pump to set the max. It maxed-out at 13 psig at about 10 BTDC. I need to know more about this. Maybe the accelerator pump is involved. The centrifugal advance does start at about 600 and maxed out about 10.

2. The wipers could work better.

3. The plenum hasn't been installed.

Regarding water in the exhaust, since I've been adjusting valves and using the stethoscope, I'd say the engine has idled for 30+ minutes, maybe more. I cranked it yesterday and it blew out a small amount. Maybe the previous days had blown out most of the idling water.

I will say that the engine has never run better for me. The analog meter at curb idle swings +/- maybe 1 or 2 RPM at about 340. At that speed the vacuum is 16 +/- maybe .5.

Under the above conditions, every 5 - 10 seconds there is a bubble or two at the radiator fill. I was expecting a lot more.

The compression is mostly about 120 but goes from 115 to 125.

There is a new development that I think just started today. There is a significant amount of water coming from the tailpipe. I mopped it up and restarted the engine. It expelled probably a 1/2 cup of water in maybe about a minute and is steaming.

After the engine got hot I re-torqued the head, anywhere from about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn each. The head gasket is probably blown.

- When is the noise most apparent? Low or high engine speeds? Heavy load, light load, deceleration?

Response: Most apparent at idle and during heavy acceleration.



- What frequency is the noise? Crankshaft speed or camshaft speed?

Response: On analog tachometer at about 550 RPM, the audio spectrum peaks are as follows:

1st peak is -30 dB at 112 hz
2nd peak is -29 dB at 1113.7 hz
3rd peak is -31 dB at 5672 hz.



Or is it irregular?

Response: It is regular.



Could simply be an exhaust leak,

Response: Frankly I believe there may be an exhaust leak. This was noticeable around the manifolds earlier in this process by using Seafoam and revving the engine. Subsequently, I torqued the manifolds to 30. If there are some more suitable tools I'd be happy to have them pointed out. I used a straight socket/extension on 1/8 and 3/6 nuts. I used a socket, universal joint and extension on 2/7. I used an offset open-ended crowfoot and extension on 4/5.



the manifolds are known to warp and often need refaced..

Response: The intake/exhaust manifolds were resurfaced as an assembly and installed and torqued IAW the "1951-1954 Service Manual" Engine_IX.pdf.. I did inadvertently run the engine pretty hot the first time I adjusted the valves. This was when the automatic choke wasn't operating freely.



And yes, share the video. Your accurate description of the problem is only as good as your own troubleshooting skills. In other words, if you think it's a valve noise, who are we to disagree except to hear it ourselves? But maybe someone will have a better guess.

Response: I can upload zip files to the forum. There is an Adobe web page that I hope I can use to zip the mp4.

Are your valve guides new?

Response: No.



Isn't a valve that bounces more an indication that the valve and seat are mating well? Shouldn't guides be reamed to spec? Maybe you have a tight guide that is causing a valve to stick?

Response: Guides were reamed to spec.



Pistons were not removed, correct?

Response: Pistons were not removed.



If the ticking sound is present at an idle, you could try removing plug wires one at a time to see if the sound goes away on a certain cylinder. If a valve is sticking open and being closed by the combustion cycle the sound should go away, or be less noticable when the plug wire is pulled.

Response: Just tried removing plug wires one at a time with slight decrease in speed but no noticeable change in clicking.



Is the sound present both when the engine is cold and when it is at operating temp?

Response: Starts clicking within 20-30 seconds when started cold. Or at least becomes very noticeable after 20-30 seconds.

I can't figure out loud ticking.

2498 288 Ultramatic. I finished the following on the engine:

valve seats ground
valves ground
valve guides reamed to where every valve would bounce when dropped

head sandblasted and surface measured within spec
head sandblasted, primed and top coat
replaced cracked intake manifold
intake and exhaust manifolds sandblasted, primed and painted
intake/exhaust manifold assembly resurfaced

New head and manifold gaskets

New grade 5 or 8 washers and nuts for head and manifolds.

Cranked engine. Engine had some valve noise but not excessive.

Drove car several times. Stalled on two occasions and hard to start. Realized there was no accelerator stream.

Rebuilt carburetor. Used the old automatic choke gasket until I realized it was interfering with choke coil. Then replaced gasket with new.

New ignition coil.

New points. Reset dwell.

Sandblasted plugs.


Between first time I ran it and now it has developed a loud tick.

Set valve clearances while warm and running.

Vacuum slightly over 16 psi with maybe .5 swing. Measured at about 340 RPM curb idle with about 10 RPM swing. RPM very stable.

Used stethoscope and loudest point seems to be on exhaust manifold between 1 and 2/3.

Vacuum and idle seem too stable for sticky valve but may be. About half of lifters rotate.


Could this be a lifter? The cam?


I have video/audio of vacuum, RPM and ticking if anyone could watch/listen.

Should the choke be wide open when warm?

At the vacuum advance port or the vacuum pump port? 2498 288 How many turns out to start?

I checked the clearances twice. I had an average of about 125 before I started except for one that would intermittently read 60.