Well in an hour or two my friends will be here with a trailer and we are going to take it up to his building (approx 30 miles). He has a lift there. I hope to get the cover of the actuator off this weekend and ship the insides off to Mr. Pushbutton.
I will post pictures when I can.
Dan

What's wrong with the 2011 lifter???? Why can't we use it???

One must be careful choosing WHICH MoPar 318 lifters to use.

Packard V8 hydraulic valve lifters:
Melling JB 879 or SealedPower HT 879.
DO NOT USE THE 2011 LIFTER !!!!!!!!

I have the JB879 installed in my 56 Executive.
When i pulled it apart there were 2 replacement types in there that i have reasons to believe came from one of the major suppliers. The 879 lifters are identicle to the 2 replacements i found in the engine EXCEPT for the shape of the pushrod seat. The 879 has a pushrod seat identicle to the factory lifters that was in the car.

Joe if you could add your wonderful cross-ref information to the parts database that will help preserve that information so it doesnt get lost down the thread tree.

Thanks again,

Form the PI engine room judging guide:

1955 Rocker Covers

352 Seniors Black with Ivory Letter (Ivory Engine)
350 Clipper Black with Stick on Clipper (Red Engine)
352 Clipper Custom Black with Stick on Clipper (Turquoise Engine)
Chrome Optional (Script unpainted)

1956 Rocker Covers

374 Senior Silver with Red Letters (Bronze Engine)
352 Senior Silver with Red Letters (Metallic Green Engine)
Clippers Silver with Red Letters "Clipper" (Metallic Green Engine)
Chrome Optional (Script unpainted)

Some replacement engine were painted Turquoise with Clipper value covers. STB 55T-3 advised service managers to repaint the engine the correct color, and install the correct value covers if required.

The picture is a 356 engine and the oil filter was standard equipment ond not an accessory on this engine.

Does anyone know which year & size of the V8 came with black covers and white PACKARD script?
The reason I ask is the 56J I had in high school (late 60s) had those covers. I am thinking that would give me a pretty good idea of which version of the Packard V8 someone had installed in that car.

Thanks,

Joe Hall

Someone asked where I have found parts earlier. I assume it is common knowledge that early Chrysler 318 lifters fit? As it is that early GM 350 rings fit?

A modern, neoprene, rear-main seal made by FelPro (#BS 40613) will replace the pesky (repro) rope seal that is currently about all that's available to replace the OEM seal. The OEM ones are great, when you can find them, but the repro ones only last 10-15,000 miles before coming apart. When either one fails, it is near impossible to replace without removing the engine and breaking the crank loose. The FelPro seal fits misc Jeeps and Caddies up into the 1990s; it installs easily with the oil pan removed. I have about 15,000 miles one now and so far it has not leaked.

As for pistons, the EGGEs are better than nothing, but are hard to cool down unless fitted with lots of extra clearance. I have a set in a car that currently has 30,000 miles on them, and that engine still runs 10-20 degrees warmer that normal. I prefer to sleeve the block back to standard (all 8 holes) and use servicable OEM pistons. I have heard ROSS makes a good set of forged ones, but do not know that first hand.
As for rod, main, and cam bearings, timing chains, piston pin bushings, vacuum advance rebuilds, etc. Terrell Machine in Texas has always been a reliable, cost competative.
FOr the oil pump, I have used Max M's and Packard Intl's. BOth are similar, but different engineering ideas, but both work. P.I sells theirs for less than half of what Max M gets for theirs. I am chompin at the bit to try one of the Melling pumps now !

As mentioned earlier, all this info may be common knowledge to most folks on this NG, but maybe someone need to know some of it.

Thanks,

Joe Hall

Thanks for the pic, the 48-54 parts book does not show the oil filter option installed. I will have to try to find to get some of the other Parts Books here on the website as the plate sheets are very extremely helpful.

I think the only difference on the '54 engine is that the return bung is farther forward. Almost right under the oil filter.

Kev, Congratulations on getting the garage up and running. Nice score on the vise. I only have a lousy 4" one and I would really like to get a good 6" one also.
The oil lines are obviously wrong as you mentioned. The one problem I see with the present arrangement is that the lifters may not be getting enough oil. There should be a T at the present oil sender fitting with one line going up to the lifter gallery inlet and the other line going to the upper fitting on the side of the filter. There is a restriction on the oil filter upper fitting which restricts the flow of oil to the filter to allow full pressure to the oil lifter gallery inlet. The oil pressure from the oil filter to the gallery as it is set up now might be insufficient . The lower fitting on the oil filter should run to another fitting directly below the T and this empties oil back into the crankcase. Attached is a diagram from a 1947 Parts Book but I think your car would use the same setup more or less.

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