Joe. Tell us more about the TH400 conversion. Who did it and do u know how it was done??? WHy the 400 and not the 700R-4???? I'd really like to have a 700-R4 in mine. Is the TH400 easier or what????

When I jacked the body up off the frame in the back between the body and the frame (near the body bolt) there was this material that reminded me of tar paper/shingles.

Was this original or was it added by someone? If original can I just go with tar paper again or ????

Was the purpose of this material so you wouldn't have metal to metal contact and was is it also to control the noise of metal to metal?

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Since I've seen the mod of adapting the TH400 and the TH700-R4 to the Packard V8, and how they do it, it's had me wondering... Why don't they do a manual version of the GM trans? Take an aluminum bellhousing from a GM, cut it like the 700R4 conversion, and weld on the Ultramatic flange to make a manual bellhousing that accepts a GM four speed trans? It wouldn't be so hard as converting to a 727, and ending up with the problems that I've read about. Manual bellhousings for Packard V8's are hard to come by, but Ultramatic bellhousings to convert to manual transmissions would be rather easy to come by. This might be a project for me down the road, after I put the T56 in the Patrician.

Mr. Pushbutton: Think you can make a pushbutton shifter for the T56???!!! LOL!

Could you post pictures?

Hmmm.......we need to get you a TH400 compatible pushbutton unit!

Just wondering if this was your own conversion or the one mentioned on the 56J site. You've apparently had a decent experience with yours-- has anyone done the 700R4 from another vendor. Haven't heard that much good about the Torqueflight setup, and just wondered how these compare. The GM mods seem to eliminate the large spacer and mount plate the Chrysler uses.

Have about 30,000 miles on the 56J I did this conversion on a few years ago. To date, the only trouble has been been topping off the ATF a couple of times, probably less than a quart all total. Other than that, all it does is do exactly what it is supposed to do, which is transmit power to the rear wheels. And, I may say, it does that very well!

Has anyone else done this mod?

Joe H

I've had my inline filter on my car in Kansas heat for over two years, driving on a daily basis and never have had vapor lock. I just don't like to do things the hard way!

Joel -

Thanks for the additional insights.

I'll admit that Frederick's indoor swap meet certainly interested me, but the location is a bit too far (farther than Hershey) for me. Also, I hate travelling the PA pike - especially with the fickle weather we have through April around these parts.

The timing of Perrysburg in May was a lot better for me and only a 3-1/2 hour drive - typically in nice weather. Yet, threat of rain seems to have been more frequent in recent years, and I can see why an indoor venue is tempting. I just hope the show field is nearby - unlike some other events I've been to.

Perrysburg had been one of the best all-around Packard events I've ever attended, and I'm certainly willing to give the new site a try if it will get the number of cars on display back up and bring more vendors and parts to the public.

Keep us posted with dates and location. I'll be there!

I have run the filter back at the tank. After i was satisfied the tank is clean i removed the filter at the tank.
The problem with running a filter anywhere before the pump is that it increases resistence on the draught side. I've never had vapour lock problems but increasing resistence on the draught side of the pump could contribute to vapour lock.

AFTER i started cutting the filter i suddenly realized a better way. I believe that a LARGER DIAMETER, BUT LIGHT PRESSURE SPRING that will just fit over the OD of the plastic body and against the plastic top lip will do the trick. No need for curved cut reliefs nor spacers.