You might want to check the motor number on the front left (driver) side of the engine. If the engine was replaced sometime in the past to a later model engine it might be an "E" engine (1939 engines start with B). In Texas, Montana and other states it wasn't uncommon to title the car by engine number rather than what would be a VIN in modern speak. Replica plates are available, but even when the numbers are very carefully stamped, officialdom tends to raise their eyebrows on what is obviously a new plate.

I don't have the numbers readily available, but I have been able to get the parts I need from NAPA. As I remember, Chevy's up to the mid 60's used the same wheel cylinders.

I always buy the generic 6 volt Echlin regulator from NAPA, and have always had good luck with them over the last 40 years.

Replacing the door glass is pretty simple and not expensive. Here in Billings I can get a new laminated glass window for $35 to 40, and an hours labor to install. If you are fairly handy, it is not difficult to do. The 51-54 shop manual has directions. The toughest part is getting your hands inside the door, but at least Packard was kind enough to provide two large access panels in the door.

Often the problem causing the cracking is the worn out "mouse fur" inside the vertical guides. These get worn out and allow the glass to rattle around, causing stress. Most auto glass shops have replacement stock on hand, or it is available on line. This is something that you should have replaced when you replace the glass.

Well, it is a nice looking coupe, but it does need a new interior. Still, it would be a nice car to have - I just wonder how many bids he will get at that starting price....

Hagerty is the firm I used for years, and have only had one claim for a dented fender. They sent out an inspector and sent a check out a few days later. They are very good to work with and understand that we do like to actually drive our cars.

I have a similar problem with my 51 and the Steele replacement on the front edge of the front door. The only way I can figure out how to install it is to remove the front fender. Not much fun.

Bob, get in contact with the local Packard club in Houston. It is the Lone Star Packard atlonestarpackards.com

There is a meeting coming up soon with the Houston, DFW and San Antonio/Austin clubs joining up in Kerrville. The meet used to always be held in Salado, but the hotel there is undergoing renovations. It will be on April 1 - April 3, 2016 - Texas Packard Meet, Kerrvile, Texas - Information and Entry Form attexaspackardmeet.com/

You should really make an effort to go, to get a chance to talk to the local guys and gals about the pros and cons of Packard ownership. Plus the best place to buy a Packard is from a private owner who is involved in the club.

I used to attend the Salado, meet, but it is bit of a drive from Montana instead of Dallas.

Good luck!

Eric is a previous owner of my 1951 200. I'd like to get in touch with Eric - if his father is on this site, please pm me.
thanks

You can first remove the instrument panel by crawling on your back, on the floor. There are about 4 or 6, don't remember exactly, nuts that hold the panel on. Remove the speedometer cable and disconnect the battery (so you don't accidentally move a wire and short something out). You will also need to disconnect the gauges as well. There are two bolts on each end of the dash that come from the body into the dash. Remove all four of the nuts from them. Also, remove the front window trim, as there are a number of Phillips head screws along the edge of the windshield. Be sure to label each wire before you take them loose, and take lots of photos as you are laying on your back, so you will be able to figure it out.

When I pulled the dash on my car, the glove box was missing so that made things easier. I believe the box is held in with screws accessible inside the box.

You may also want to remove the front seat completely just to make life a bit less painful. The job is not difficult, just takes some head scratching and fiddling.