"don't forget AER whole visits this forum."

Thanks cli55er for mentioning me. You guys are a great bunch, I always enjoy hearing from the users from this site.

Jim,
So, you want an original Delco regulator? Does it have to be the correct number or would a later part number be ok?

As for the diode, your choice obviously. I just know I've seen 70 amp diodes fail with only 15 amps going through it. If it fails shorted, you could have more than just a dead battery. That will energize your generator and it will try and motor as long as there is current going to it, you could damage the armature as well. It would be best if it failed open.

I have brushes, they are still readily available.

Unfortunately, the quality of these and all replacement aftermarket regulators has gone down in the last few years. I've had problems with the USA and import replacements, sometimes right out of the box. Society demand for faster and cheaper goods has really taken a hit on quality, I'm sure your familiar with this.

Jim,
Yes, I could provide you with the correct regulator if given all of your information. I'm sure the regulator you ordered will work just fine though. It will probably be a little higher amp than it should be , but I doubt it will give you any problems.

The Autolite and Delco's are for the most part (some exceptions)the same circuitry.

You could install a heavy diode in place of the cutout coil, but I would not recommend it. Keep in mind that a 100 amp diode only carries that rating when installed in a heat sink with air being blown over it to keep the temperature down, not stuck in an enclosed regulator case. A regulator base is far from an ideal heat sink. I usually only use diodes where the generators output is 20 amps or under. I think the problem you are experiencing is unique, usually the problem with mechanical regulators is in the field control coil(s).

Let me know if I can help you in any way.

Jim,
Hopefully I can answer some of your questions. First off, if your regulator was only rated for say 10, 15 or 20 amps then it would restrict the generators output from exceeding that and therefore keep the cutout points from having to handle an excessive amount. Although single point cutout points are pretty common and they do in fact look as though they would not be able to handle the current sometimes. If your points have been overheated then you are right to replace it. Do you have any numbers off of your generator? With the numbers off your generator, I could figure out the correct regulator and regulator rating required. Feel free to call or email me direct with any other questions or don't hesitate to reply here for all others to read.
Jason
Advanced Electrical Rebuilders
www.aerrebuild.com
jason@aerrebuild.com

The field will show continuity to ground as long as the brushes are in contact with the armatures commutator. I think the first and easiest check would be to disconnect the field wire at the regulator and see if the problem goes away. If it goes away, then that would indicate a problem with the regulator. If it still charges high, then the problem would be in the wiring or with the wiring inside the generator. Feel free to contact me with any questions. I have regulators available also.
Jason
Advanced Electrical Rebuilders
www.aerrebuild.com
jason@aerrebuild.com

Technically that regulator will work with both the original Autolite and Delco since they are the same "A" circuit set up. Autolites and Delcos were primarily "A" circuit and most Fords were"B" circuit. There are exceptions for all, but generally they were setup as that. The "A" & "B" circuit simply indicates wether the field coils are connected to Armature or Ground inside the generator. On an "A" circuit, you ground the field terminal to full field the generator and on a "B" circuit, you hook field to Armature or Battery/Output to full field.

I sell an American or Import regulator to replace yours, let me know.

Mark has contacted me on this issue a couple times. Thanks everyone for all the recommendations. I should have a regulator on it's way to him soon hopefully.

I did some brief research and really didn't come out with much more info than I had. I'll sum it up for those who are interested.
-Delco 1100002 w/ date code of 7E17 fits 1937 Oldsmobile.
-1948 Delco book only shows a few switches and relays for model 2126, so I'd agree that it had an Autolite originally
-1949 Autolite book shows four different generators depending on model, but doesn't show model 2126 specifically.

Talk to you in the morning, Mark.

Jason

Uh Oh, Is that thing ticking with those batteries hooked up? Watch Out, It's the starter bomber!!!!!!!

Everything looks great Hank!

-Jason

Joe,
I should be able to help you. I have two or three different options and none of them are at a cost of $350. Feel free to give me a call or email and we can discuss the options.
Jason

Just a few comments if anyone is interested. The CGB bushing would be an aftermarket bushing, not original. Delco never put OE part numbers in their bushings like some of the others (Autolite), the originals were always blank.

I don't think the original field coil insulators were fishpaper. Wasn't fishpaper somewhat brittle. There's really nothing to them. As a matter of fact, most rebuilders don't even put them back in. Whenever I'm working on a Low Torque (thick coil like what Henry is working on here) starter I always put new ones in. Why, because they were originally there! And I'm only to assume that if they went to the expense of putting them in, there was a reason. Kidding, Obviously the reason is to give a little extra insurance against a short to the pole piece. Once Delco went to high torque, which is the same case but thinner coil, they quit using them all together.

If anyone has any questions on this type of stuff, feel free to ask. Good luck with the project Henry & Have fun!

Jason