It also is only going to be a partial filter, not gaining much. I wouldn't bother, if you're not driving it much. They got along just fine without them, you adapt. Plus you'll have to clean the sludge from the pan before you install. We're talking motor oil selling for <25 cents/qt in '49, so can't save much money with filter investment on oil changes in the day. Bulk oil was available too. Those antique glass oil bottles were used for that. I packaged and sold bulk in the '70s. Now it's special this or that, and "synthetic" BS. You can get after market full filter cartridge units but may require some surgery at least some plumbing. Full oil filters didn't become standard until well into the late '50s early '60s. Cadillac changed in '61 with an engine redesign. My '58 is partial. You're 10+ years to soon.

I got a chuckle out of that linked article that said he was from northern OH and never heard of Packard - what's that?
Not unexpected today when a brand has been gone for 65 years or two generations now.
Mystique du jour at play here, not common sense. I like it flies in the face of the EV movement too! I wonder if Elon has one on order? Go ICEs! The new gen would likely 3D print one, too.
I grew up about 10 miles from Warren, was born before the end and all that was associated with Packard there was the music hall and the auto electric plant, which was subsequently sold and named changed. I hadn't ever been to the museum until after I acquired the '49 looking for info and was back in the area.
I looked at putting a modern V-12 in and it's not a cheap go, even if you can buy one used. I never got to approaching AMG to see if new were for sale. Not unlimited budget type, even if I could afford it or not. They integrate so much of the cars sensors into the ECU that it would take a major programming effort to unwind all that. I almost tried a wreck to use the chassis and motor but still a deprogramming nightmare, as they don't divulge the program outside MB. Same for BMW, but there are racing guys with the keys. There is a V-12 racing engine or two out there, Nelson, etc that were running in the >$30K arena for just the engine about 10 years back.

I suggest it's better to find out why your car is not starting 'well' than fiddling with the timing. Quick fixes are just that - don't solve problems. I define 'well' as it turns over and fires right off. No prolonged cranking or multiple start attempts. Most of these old cars, need a few turns to bring up the oil/fuel pressure before intro of spark. Look at the starting procedure for your car. Carb design influences starting procedure too.
Perhaps it's not timed correctly to begin with or some issues with the spark or fuel circuit, starter drawing too many amps/battery not outputting, etc. These old carb/points cars should be "tuned up" about every year regardless of miles driven for max starting performance.
It has little to do with the nominal system voltage, per se, 6 vs 12, as many of the ignition system coils ran on 6V well past the advent of 12VDC cars. Aka ballast resister cars and then they moved the resister internal to the coil later.
Timing is just the marriage of spark to piston position in degrees. If it's "too early" then the fuel charging won't be complete before it starts to burn or to much not burn at all. ie backfires thru manifold. Yeah, burn, not explode.
If it's too late, then some unburnt will leak out before it's ignited or not ignited it won't start if too much.ie can backfire.
It's fantasy to think that only when it's @ TDC that the spark needs to be there.
Now figure in rpm's and things change.
There's less time to complete the 4 cycles. It's better to be a little before(anticipate firing) than late with a mechanical system. Electronics(HEI) often fire multiple times instead of the mechanical once so are more reliable/less sensitive. If you ever watch a top fuel dragster, there's fire coming out the headers, even at idle, not clean completely burnt exhaust. And they use two magnetos for max. spark. The idea being to stuff as much fuel in there to get maximum HP a fast as possible, ignoring fuel efficiency or perfect timing. Cylinder pressure increase increases required spark energy. Often one cylinder will go out, white fuel spray out the exhaust header during the run and cause mechanical damage. But that's for illustration, not factory P's.
All my reading, SAE reports, etc always attribute the start up period as the highest documented engine wear period. That's why highway miles are less damaging than start/stop driving. That momentary lack of lubrication increases frictive wear, until the oil gets flowing.
to illustrate: Many antique tractors had roller bearing bottom ends, not traditional solid bearings or babbitt for longevity. How it was constructed will determine more it's design life than ignition timing. The evolution, progressed to pressure lubrication & oil filtration to extend engine life. It started off mostly as splash oiling, or 'oilers' and frequent oil change or once through oiling.

We kicked this around pretty good in the modifications section a few years back so you might search the site before re-hashing issues.
There are people who have added turbo or blower that's about the best you're going to get. The Edmunds stuff will make it look pretty. This is not a hi-compression V-8 with bolt on HP additions. If I'm not mistaken the 327 is a stroked 282/same bore, but apparently some other changes that don't make it a drop in crank as one would with a SBC 350/400 to get 383? That's came up before many times, too.
If you don't change the camshaft, you're not going to benefit with fuel add and the stock carb is adequate. You have to commission a special grind, not available. Not sure you'll find anyone that knows how these daze. Isky Ed is closing in on 100. With the L-head, not much in the way of piston help for compression. It's got torq and depends on gearing to move. If you want a hot rod, then that's another modification discussion. There's a few '40s Ps that have been upgraded/dropped in running around. Any search will produce photos. But going faster means a lot of other upgrades to handle the HP/speed loads.
I haven't seen any dyno data on making changes to L-8s, so it's all hearsay w/o.

If it's still stalling out, need to check if fuel or ignition problem. Check for spark as it dies. Timing light or spark tester.
See attachment on adjusting. Anti-percolation circuit on these.
I suspect it wasn't done right but can't tell over the internet. If they don't bench or engine test, and spec sheet can't tell if it's right when it comes back. A good shop will test.
'49 is WDG and I rebuilt myself and it would idle at 400 rpm for as long as I let it run - no heat-up, no stall out. Engine compartment wiring & ignition was fresh.

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Still the best brand site out there, BK.
Model for others. Organized and up to date. Lots of info, but some don't look, they expect internet others to do the lifting. No arbitrary internet monitors to worry about. Been there done that. Maybe something for thought, how to make searching auto when a request comes up, but probably outside the scope. AI maybe.

Reality check:'41 is one of "those" years in the auto world. Production was just getting back up post depression after industry shake out, then Pearl Harbor. War was already in Europe since '39, shaky economy. '41s were just getting going. The war powers act shutdown further consumer auto production. The later war cars would have '41 parts but military. ie; the pile is smaller to start.
The guy making the 'money' is the one that recognized this and has the parts.
It's part of the 'hobby' knowing what's what.
If not for that, I'm silent.
If it's not "complete" then it's been used for/lost some of it's parts or aka "parts car".
Many today are not aware of the history. >80 years since '41.

Seems your car was picked for parts already. Something to always consider when purchasing a non-complete vehicle. There's only so many made, then only so many survive, and survivors need parts and that limits the parts scene and causes what you have - a parts car. NOS has been depleted many decades.
Undecided, I suggest you take a critical look at it and decide if it's worth restoring or doing something else - sell, part out, custom, etc. before going forward. eg: graft in a modern dash, make the trim pieces, etc. Otherwise, they remain incomplete money and time pits not worth as much as you put in.
Pick projects carefully not on a whim/happenstance or because of a "deal". If one doesn't know why they buy before/what they're going to do with it/parts available/capable of, it's too late to walk away. Good luck.

Generally replace if there's excess play in the joint/vibration or by mileage.
If the rollers are out of round/damaged, then definitely replace. There's only two ends showing any noticeable scoring in the same axis but not grooved. They might be suspect/need checked.
Didn't say which joint this was, front or rear?
Generally, if they don't have zerks, they're to be replaced not re-lubed.
If the grease is hard, then won't help to try to flush out with fresh grease, so need dismantled/cleaned, if it's been driven like that. Time saver, I'd replace as chances of them being good in that condition are less and why invest the labor or have to do over anyway, if it's vibrating after reinstall.
Grease has to liquify enough to flow to coat the bearing surface, so if hard is like no lube. Tendency is to over grease, stick to a maintenance schedule. Then that opens the question of what else is full of hard grease?
I'm sure they were much cheaper/throw away back in the day, but not when they're rare or odd size - happy to get them. Finding quality is more difficult today.
ps:There's a bit of art in removing end caps. I use a socket that's only slightly smaller than the cap, so it pushes on the cap sides and press the top in to push out the bottom, then reverse. Keeps the rollers in line that way, if you catch the cap. Don't pound them out, the caps are thin and can crack/get damaged and center hits don't have any support.

You need to study this a bit. That's a heavy lift ~1000 lbs and normal chinese takeout engine crane is at the limit of load and height. I had to beef mine up.
I removed one side to be able to swing out, I didn't have the height and the radiator support comes with the motor after you unbolt. Finding the COG is also not that easy, I had to re-position the slings a few times to get it to level. Take the trans support out after it's on the crane. I did it all myself.
I posted all that back about 8 years ago, so maybe you should read all the old posts for tips. Someone had a good pattern for a cradle too. I made one on casters.
The L8 won't fit on the std. V8 engine stand either. Some shops may not be able to line bore so need to do your research.