HH, thanks once again for the great explanation and the picture will be of tremendous help.
I'll give her a go tomorrow.

I pulled the wiper motor tonight but will disassemble tomorrow for a look see. I prefer to stay original, if possible but will change to electrical motor if need be.
Question, what kind of tool do I need to remove the knob off the wiper switch and is there any nuts or clips behind the dash I need to remove to get the switch out.. I removed the vac hoses and it is a nightmare trying to get tham back on, plus I want to remove it and check it on the bench with the motor.

Thanks everyone for the info it is a great help.
I finally got the wipers to move but, very slowly and they will not park. I replaced the vacumn hoses from the tubimg conn's to the vac pump and the manifold to the balancing valve and balncing valve to wiper motor at the tee (the Y had been replaced with a tee) conn. I did not replace the two 1/8" lines from the switch/control knob to the motor as they are soft and not split or hard at the ends. But, I have decided to replace them anyway although I am pretty sure that is not the problem. I checked the vac from the pump and it read a very steady 25" on the vac gauge,and the manifold vac read 23" on the va gaugewith a very slight quivering of the needle of a 1/4" or so. There is plenty of vac. and since both arms move freely it would seem to be a motor issue.
I think I will pull the motor off, disassemble and do a check for visible damage and gummed up internals.

Owen Thanks, Question, which connection on the wiper motor do I use? Is it the 18th connection at the front of the motor from the wiper switch or at the 1/8 x 1/4x1/4" Y fitting from the vacumn pump and intake vacumn to the control switch valve.
I'll look again for some vacumn motor oil, if not I think I will try the airtool oil and see what happens.

Packard recommended using Trico oil to periodically lubricate the internals of the wiper motor wiper and I haven't located any of that and not sure if it is still available. What other type of lubrication is being used currently to do this.I was thinking about using airtool oil.

If you haven't already done this, check to make sure there is not another filter or shut off valve at the tank or in the line. Then!
you should take the line loose from the carb. and connect a flexible piece of tubing (gas or brake hose or tygon tubing)usually 5/16" ID,to the end disconnected from the carb,and the other end into a clean gallon milk jug or a small gas container. Unless you have a helper the tube should be long enough to reach the jug that is placed outside the engine compartment, on the drivers side so you can see it when you are cranking the engine over. If the pump is working and the gas line is not restricted and there is sufficient gas in the tank,the jug will fill up very quickly.
If you don't get steady gas flow when cranking the engine.
Remove the line (probably rubber)from the inlet side of the pump, where the rubber line connects to the steel line, just below the pump. Then you connect a vacumn pump or a gas siphon tube to the steel line. You should be able to get a steady stream of gas with just a few squeezes of the ball. If you can't get gas flow, remove the cap from the gas tank and if you have a helper, then one of you listens at the tank nozzle while the other squeezes the ball of siphon tube. If the line is open you will hear the bubbles in the tank. You can also use LOW PRESSURE from a compressor or air tank (start with just a couple of pounds and make sure the gas cap is removed, and if you need more pressure ,increase it very slowly by no more than #5 increments) to try to blow out a blocked line or get debris in the tank away from the pickup tube.

HH56 Thanks,
That is exactly what I wanted. I was hoping someone had found something with a item or part number that would work and I could find one at a local auto parts. I keep finding out a lot of the auto parts stores have things they don't know they have but if it isn't on the computer under a make or model vehicle then the odds are slim you will get what ever you are looking for. But, sometimes I get lucky if there is a real car person working there.

Does anyone know where to purchase the grease boots for the T/L drag link universal ball joints. I called around but the auto parts stores around here had no idea what I was talking about. Mine are there but not in good shape. I figured since I have everything apart I'd put new ones in.

My bronze colored engine is sure a lot darker in color than the one in the picture and it doesn't have chrome valve covers either. Were the crome covers an option or just artist conception for sales brochures.

My 56 pat is also like Mr. Pushbutton's. It also has a dimple in the fender where the end of the bracket arm ends but, even with the dimple it's still very close to the fender,and I don't know if swapping it end for end would be an improvement or not. Probably pro's and con's to either scenario.
My car was a one owner so I believe it to be in it's original position, but there is no way to know that for sure.