Guys & Gals, there were many Packards at Pebble. They had their own class (C-2 I believe), and there were three in the Preservation class. Please see my earlier posting. The photos should be interesting and enjoyable.

You might try a large C-clamp. One worked well when I was replacing the valves in my 1939 Cadillac 60 Special. The part of the clamp that fits under the valve spring retainer
may require a notch in order to fit around the bottom of the valve. It's worth a try.

Dan, the horn button you show in the photo looks just like one I recently purchased on eBay. It is supposedly from a 1940 One Sixty. I can't help you with the rest of your request, but good luck.

Mal, Nice job on the floor underlay. It should help insulate noise and heat from the passenger compartment. Keep in mind that the underlay plus carpeting material may result in a thicker floor covering than was there originally. This I mention because it may keep your accelerator pedal from making full throttle. I had this problem with my 115C Convertible Coupe and after fiddling around a bit ended up making a longer shaft from the pedal to the linkage fixture on the firewall. This fixed the problem just fine. Keep up the good work and keeping us informed of you progress.

I wrote a reply about pinion seal replacement and getting the correct bearing preload. I believe it was in the post-war section and was about a month ago. You may find it helpful with your job.

Mal, looking at the left rear brake assembled photo, you may have the primary and secondary brake shoes reversed. It looks to me like the larger lined shoe is on the front. Usually the primary brake shoe is in front and it has less lining than the secondary which is in the rear. I may be mistaken, but thought you might want to look at this. By the way, your project is looking quite good. I admire your mechanical restoration of the '41. I have a great story about a '41 One Twenty I'll have to share with you some day. I am looking at my GeoChron and see that it is about 1:10 A.M. on Saturday. It is 10:10 A.M. Friday here in Austin. And with that, Good Day ---

Here is neat trick to use when running an engine without a thermostat. Simply take a thermostat that fits the engine (opening temperature is unimportant) and remove the working parts, leaving only the outer ring. Install this outer ring as the restrictor where the thermostat normally fits. This is a more satisfactory solution than trying to find the right size washer. Removing the thermostat will only work around the overheating problem and is not a real fix; however, it may help.

41 Touring, Rusty's description of the hand throttle is correct, except for one thing. You do not need to pull the hand throttle out to start your car. Your '41 is equipped with an automatic choke that will close the choke plate in the carburetor the correct amount, and will also activate a fast idle to run the engine at a slightly higher speed when it is cold. These hand throttles are useful when you need to have the engine idle at a faster than normal speed. Using them as a cruise control is not recommended. The noise you hear is probably the hand throttle cable moving the linkage. Enjoy your Packard, this was a great year for them.

Mal, if I am reading your last post correctly, then I believe that the correct fuel pump installation should have the following: a fiber-type bushing that goes into each hole through which the cap screws that attach the fuel pump to the engine block; also, there should be a fiber-type washer for each cap screw (the order would be: a fiber washer next to pump, then a steel washer, then a steel lock washer next to the cap screw head); in addition, you should have a fiber-type insulator between the fuel pump and engine block. It would be in the shape of the gasket and probably no more than 1/4" thick. You probably had some or none of this because over the years these insulators were not re-installed when fuel pumps were replaced or serviced. Many times rubber hose or copper tubing was used instead of the fiber bushings in order to "fill-up the hole". Regards - John

I recall that back in the day oil pressure sending units could be purchased with different settings that would give a low oil pressure indication. I believe the settings would range from around 5 lbs to around 10 lbs. Obviously, we always replaced a defective unit with one with the highest reading available. Just a thought.

Jim, I too live in Austin. I am in the Northwest part, off of Mesa.