G'day all, especially Hotrod. Sorry to have come in so late in this thread. I would suggest that Randy's advice about a possible sticking valve is very probable. I would also suggest that you check your throttle linkage adjustment. This is particularly important because your accelerator position has a huge effect on when the gear changes take place. The change may also take over 5 seconds after you lift your foot.
In H you are starting off in converter drive using the high range clutch and the change point into Direct Drive clutch at light - medium throttle is normally at about 25 - 30 mph. This is a combination of throttle pressure and Governor pressure, probably more Governer pressure on light throttle. Once into Direct Drive, the high range clutch and the Direct drive clutch operate from the rear pump and the larger front pump ceases to drive the system and goes into coasting mode.
In D you are starting off using the low range band and converter. The low range band releases depending on throttle position and governor pressure and the high range clutch takes over, operating after this just as if you were in H. The high range clutch continues to operate when the direct drive clutch operates to take the slip out of the converter In theory, the change speed depends on throttle pressure from your accelerator position and governor pressure from the speed of your tailshaft shift. I would check the throttle lever first. Best regards Peter Toet

G'day all, The sheath and the tube should be but does not HAVE to be permanently fixed as the clamp provides the fix for the outer casing. The extension sheath appears to be a weather shield for the actuation rod and this is the same with the R6 O'd. best regards Peter Toet

G'day Eric, Congratulations on your windfall, I have still to send you some data on changing the 37 top to suit the R6/ R9 set-up, however yesterday I modified and took pictures which i should talk to Mal about how to post them, on one of my previous R6 floorchange conversions so that it now locks out of overdrive when you select reverse ( stopped of course), as per the original R6/ R9 overdrive. One of my party tricks with the unmodified trans was to select any gear including reverse at any speed under 20mph, without the clutch and without any complaints from the gearbox. It used to freak a few people out but was quite harmless, now it is not harmless at all, but is less strain on the pull cable. Best regards Peter Toet

G'day Mal, Well done! I couldn't believe the amount of Iowa soil under that wheel barrow! It should grow some lovely Pontiac potatoes! Best regards Peter T.

G'day all, This may be a bit after the horses have bolted but for my 2 cents, I would be cautious about using a modern Sulphur EP or a 140 weight oil in a Packard O'D as they really need some thrash of oil in the system. The o'd's have two oil levels and apart from oil levels, you have to be careful not to use a friction modified oil in them. They do have some noises, mostly due to the failure of the piss-ant crush washer in the R6 and the general wear and tear over 50 years for the R6, R9 and R10 and R11. I would counsel to use a non EP 85 - 140 in the box as the use of a sulphur enhanced EP oil should not be recommended for the roller type o'd boxes with bronze bushes in the lay shafts. There are non EP oils available which avoid Sulphur as an EP agent and are readily available for older vehicles.
Having said that, restoration and maintenance on a 70 year old car/ bike / whatever, is very much a personal decision and you can put in whatever you want. Best Regards. Peter Toet

G'day all, especially Randy, I have been pulling a reasonable number of 55-56 trans apart lately and encountering a lot of stripped threads in the housing to casing area. It is not usually a problem unless it is the bolt (56) or two bolts (55) which are pressurised. I helicoil the failed threads and have no problem attaining the 55-60 lbs, although I opt for the 55 lbs setting on my recently re-calibrated Warren & Brown torque wrench. On the housing bolts I have no problem with the lower Packard factory torque setting as once you install the vertical lower housing attachment bolts, they almost negate any torsional stress on the periphal housing bolts. I appreciate that the factory specs appear to be inconsistent but I have run into trouble before trying to second-guess Packard engineering. I suppose it depends on your faith in Packard engineering. Best regards, Peter Toet

G'day Mal.. Is it true that they are planning a remake of "the Great Escape" and they want to use your "tunnelling image" in the remake? It looks great but I would imagine that the missus is not impressed when she has to clean you up. Well done!! Best regards from 200 miles away and Crikey! we could all use some rain. Peter

G'day Richard, It is much easier to fit the R6 or R9 trans to the Six than the Eight. The next time I put the cars on my hoist I shall take some pics from underneath. As for which one is best, I prefer the R6 as you do not need electrics fitted to engage the overdrive. You do need electrics on the R6 to dis-engage the overdrive above about 17 mph. The R9 uses the solenoid and governor to engage and dis-engage the overdrive. I suggest that you find a mate with a spare chassis to have a look at the work requred. There is a fair bit of work to fit to a 37 120 for example. I shall try to get more info to you. best regards Peter Toet

G'day Phil and all, As we know, there was no optional overdrive in Packard for 1938. A few ( myself included) have fitted 35 -38 floor change tops to R6 and R9 overdrives. I am not sure if your reference to a "standard 8" means the 320 Cubic inch standard eight motor. If this IS the case then the only floor change that you can fit to a 38 Super is an R6 or an R9 with the correct big input spline and one year only 1939 bell housing, much different to a Junior R6 or R9. The R11 is a side shift trans and you will need to acquire a "slick shift" from the Fifties to run a funny looking floor change. The R6 has only a solenoid, with no governor, works in reverse to a R9 and R11 and needs a bit less chassis modification to fit. The R6 has a crap crush washer in the rear of the trans so there are definitely trade offs in fitment. But the 28.7% reduction in revs gets the smile on your face every time. We got 20 MPG ( imperial gallon ) on our last long trip averaging 60 mph. Good luck Peter Toet

G'day all, Love the picture of Napoleon, but isn't his right hand supposed to be inside his vest? Cutting to the chase, for a rolling tool box, I use a "found abandoned" K Mart shopping trolley. It is designed to allow even the klutsiest person to steer 300 lbs through ( and sometimes against) all of the cars in the car park.. it has big wheels, excellent visibility, steers easily ( generally) and pushes with minimum resistance. I have numerous tool rolls, sets of specialised spanners etc in the grocery section, whilst the child seating section contains the manuals and torch or special tools for the job. Best regards Peter Toet