I will post what I learn.

John,

Normally that is exactly what I would do. I have already torn into this carb 4 times. There are some threaded holes that are partially stripped, the top isn't quite flat, etc., so having Daytona go through it seems like a good idea.

Cheers,

Tom

Thank you to all who commented on Veronica (Laurie's 38 Eight). Laurie was quite pleased with the award, and both of us are glad folks enjoyed the car.

It was surprising how many folks commented on the attractiveness of the black wall tires.

Cheers,

Tom

p.s. Here is a photo of Veronica the day she was delivered to Laurie. Please note that the color is Packard Blue (correct for 1938), not black.

Attach file:

---

  (54.27 KB)

We have decided to send the carb to Daytona Parts for restoration. Cost is $250.

Thank you all for your help.

Cheers,

Tom

For frame cleaning I use Heavy Duty Easy Off oven cleaner and a power washer. If there is a lot of plain dirt, pre-power-wash. Then apply the oven cleaner, let sit 30 min. or so, than power wash. For really dirty spots more than one cycle of oven cleaner and power washing may be required.

Wear gloves, clothes you don't care about, mask and eye protection when spraying the oven cleaner. It is caustic.

I got this tip from Big Kev's blog. It worked great on 80+ years of accumulated bijur drippings and road mud.

Cheers,

Tom

Quote:

Just a reminder: using regular sand for blasting is generally a bad idea. Silicosis is a real risk.

Also, the ceramic nozzles wear out. If they wear enough you will get a very poor result.

Cheers,

Tom

MEK vs Acetone (Because I'm a nerd?):

Attach file:

---

  (2.42 KB)


  (2.72 KB)

On my 30 drums, the 'tabs' the lug bolts go through hit the painted hub. That is why I went with the screw on type. Probably just the design of my puller.

Cheers,

Tom

Fuel pump is a rebuilt (about 2 years ago) original mechanical pump.

We have pulled the carb. I'll update this thread when we figure it out.