I'm looking for maybe some insight from those of you that have had this problem and corrected it.

My '47 Super Clipper Limo has an issue where when it's been operated for an extended period of time and I shut it off, it's impossible to get it started again unless I pop the hood and let it cool for about 45 minutes.

It does have an electric fuel pump installed (by previous owner) but it's up front, mounted to the frame near the original fuel pump. The pump is wired to run all the time as long as the key is in the "on" position.

I can feel that the pump is creating pressure by feeling the fuel hose between the electric and mechanical fuel pump.

The operating temp is usually below the half way mark. Checking it with a laser temp sensor, it shows that the engine block pretty much stays under 200 degrees while running. This is even while it sits idling for 20 or so minutes and it's in the 80s (temp wise). So I'd say that overheating isn't an issue.

I'm thinking it's vapor lock. But could it be even with an electric fuel pump running? Would relocating it to the rear, near the gas tank remedy this issue at all? What about rebuilding the mechanical pump?

Also, on two occasions, the car quit on me while driving at slow speeds. I had to stop and let it cool down 45 minutes before it started up again after some cranking with the pedal floored. Another time, I was in third and felt the car die. I floored it with the car still in 3rd gear and after a few jerks, it started back up and ran fine.

Any ideas from the experts here?

Attach file:

---

  (45.83 KB)

Just a couple more pictures.

Attach file:

---

  (54.70 KB)


  (73.67 KB)

Here's a few more pictures of the wheel cylinder. only half was gummed up. The other side was pretty clean.

Attach file:

---

  (29.13 KB)


  (94.33 KB)


  (72.23 KB)

I took the wheel cylinder off and found it to be gummed up. The rubber components looked alright and were soft and pliable like they should be. I cleaned them up, honed out the wheel cylinder and put it all back together.

I completely flushed the brake fluid as the stuff in there was completely contaminated.

The brakes are firm and the car stops remarkably well for being such a large and heavy vehicle with 4 wheel drum brakes.

The other brake cylinder was pretty clean. I just took it apart, cleaned it up, and honed it out (about two passes with the hone). Put it back together and on I went.

I did notice that the front stabilizer bar bushing was just just hanging there. So I fixed that while I was under there too.

The Kanter wheel cylinder came just as I finished everything up. I'll just put it on the shelf for a spare. Like I said, I'm not sure what those rear brakes look like yet.

Thanks for the help guys.

Attach file:

---

  (29.06 KB)


  (30.48 KB)


  (49.53 KB)

Well, I checked the other front brake and it appears to be ok. Upon closer inspection, you're right, the brakes look like they might have been redone not too long ago but fell victim to too much sitting around and not enough driving. The drums look new, with no ridge on them whatsoever.

I couldn't check the rears because I haven't gotten one of those heavy duty drum pullers yet. I've just started pricing them out. Looks like they go for between $100 and $150. I'm going to try and find one locally before I order one.

I wound up ordering one wheel cylinder from Kanter. When it arrives, I'll swap out my bad one and then rebuild the old one with a kit and keep it on the shelf so I have a spare that's ready to go.

So for now, I'm going to replace the one wheel cylinder, disassemble and clean the other front wheel cylinder, and completely flush the brake fluid because I don't know how old it is. That should get me back on the road safely.

Thanks for the help.

Ok fellas, everything came apart real easy. I found my culprit. The brake cylinder is leaking rusty brake fluid out of both sides and it's dripping down the hub.

I don't feel comfortable driving around with questionable brakes. In the best of conditions, the brakes are barely adequate by today's standards, so I'm going to redo the whole brake system and be done with it.

Looks like Kanter offers a complete kit, rebuilt master cylinder, 4 new wheel cylinders with new components, and 4 sets of new shoes along with all the hardware for $425.

Has anyone ever have any problems with this Kanter kit?

Attach file:

---

  (33.66 KB)

Wow, thanks for the quick replies!

Good thing I asked before I started replacing correct parts with incorrect parts. I had looked it up in the parts manual (offered here on this site) and it showed the castle nut.

Owen_Dyneto: I had taken the dust cover off.

When I get to something that doesn't look right, I usually stop and do some research / ask questions before I proceed.

The spindle has the holes for the cotter pin. There was no cotter pin present. That concerned me. When whoever worked on the front brakes last decided to leave that out, it doesn't speak much for their attention to detail and all bets are off as to what they might do to fix a problem quickly and incorrectly. That's why I really prefer to do as much work on my cars as I can, so I know it was done right. Even if it means getting in over my head. But I guess that's how you learn.

Cortcomp: The largest wrench I had was 1 1/4". The largest socket I had was no where close to the size of the nut. It looks to be about 1 1/2". Even my 12" crescent wrench was a tad too small. I went up to Harbor Freight and picked up a jumbo sized 6 piece wrench set with the smallest size being 1 3/8" and the largest being 2". I'm a member of their Inside Track Club and picked it up with a coupon for $34.

Thanks for all the references fellas.

I just picked up a '47 Custom Clipper recently and it looks like the passenger side front wheel cylinder is leaking because the outside of the backing plate is wet and the pedal is very soft. So I set off to remove the front drum.

I took the wheel off and popped the hub cap off and I'm thinking that it doesn't look right in there. There is a nut, a washer, and another nut.

Shouldn't that top nut be a castleated nut?

What should be there?

If it's wrong, I'd like to correct it before I put everything back together.

Any help is appreciated. It's been a while since I've worked on these old cars (and even then, I was just helping my Dad with his resoration projects) so I need a refresher. And I need larger tools. I don't even have a wrench big enough to take that nut off!

Attach file:

---

  (51.75 KB)


  (41.76 KB)

The ones on my '47 Limo are chrome.

Sears / Diehard makes a 6V / 12V jump starter. Harbor Freight makes one very similar too but it's a little less expensive.

http://www.harborfreight.com/612v-battery-charger-starter-67855.html