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I just picked up a '47 Custom Clipper recently and it looks like the passenger side front wheel cylinder is leaking because the outside of the backing plate is wet and the pedal is very soft. So I set off to remove the front drum.

I took the wheel off and popped the hub cap off and I'm thinking that it doesn't look right in there. There is a nut, a washer, and another nut.

Shouldn't that top nut be a castleated nut?

What should be there?

If it's wrong, I'd like to correct it before I put everything back together.

Any help is appreciated. It's been a while since I've worked on these old cars (and even then, I was just helping my Dad with his resoration projects) so I need a refresher. And I need larger tools. I don't even have a wrench big enough to take that nut off!

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I dont imagine that the '47s are much different then the 51-54s in that regards, But it should be a thick washer against bearing, and then a castleated nut with a cotter pin.

Here is what it looks like on my '54.

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I'm not familiar with the 47 type, but what you have looks like the style used in the thirties on the Seniors - two thin hex nuts with a locking ring witn pin and keyway flat in between. Completely different style than the latter style that BigKev mentions. But still should have a outer cotter.

Was the dust cover missing?

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Oh yes, the wheel nut. A nice sized quality crescent wrench comes in handy in those situations if you don't have the right socket size.

Also, tractor supply and harbor freight (and lowes but pricey) both sell individual tools and sockets without the whole set, especially in large sizes. Tractor supply seems like better tools. I think it was $8 for a socket large enough to remove the cam gear nut on my 327, which was about 1" 1/4.

See page 29 of link below:

https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/servicemanual4650/Section3.pdf

Earlier models had two nuts and a washer, later models had one nut (castle nut)and a washer.

Both models should have a cotter pin installed through the hole in the spindle to prevent the outer nut or castle nut from backing completely off.

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Also, the inner ring with pin holes can be reversed to give a second set of positions for a very fine adjustment choice. Note the braze repair? This is because folks don't hold the inner nut in position while tightening the outer one and the torque can break the key.

You might want to read more about this type of retainer here, on page 2 I believe:

http://www.packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=266&start=10

The nut-lockplate-nut combo is correct for senior cars of your year.

Some detailed pictures of the dual lock nut design for the front spindle, used on Senior cars.

http://www.packardpaddock.com/page2/page15/page15.html

Wow, thanks for the quick replies!

Good thing I asked before I started replacing correct parts with incorrect parts. I had looked it up in the parts manual (offered here on this site) and it showed the castle nut.

Owen_Dyneto: I had taken the dust cover off.

When I get to something that doesn't look right, I usually stop and do some research / ask questions before I proceed.

The spindle has the holes for the cotter pin. There was no cotter pin present. That concerned me. When whoever worked on the front brakes last decided to leave that out, it doesn't speak much for their attention to detail and all bets are off as to what they might do to fix a problem quickly and incorrectly. That's why I really prefer to do as much work on my cars as I can, so I know it was done right. Even if it means getting in over my head. But I guess that's how you learn.

Cortcomp: The largest wrench I had was 1 1/4". The largest socket I had was no where close to the size of the nut. It looks to be about 1 1/2". Even my 12" crescent wrench was a tad too small. I went up to Harbor Freight and picked up a jumbo sized 6 piece wrench set with the smallest size being 1 3/8" and the largest being 2". I'm a member of their Inside Track Club and picked it up with a coupon for $34.

Thanks for all the references fellas.

Ok fellas, everything came apart real easy. I found my culprit. The brake cylinder is leaking rusty brake fluid out of both sides and it's dripping down the hub.

I don't feel comfortable driving around with questionable brakes. In the best of conditions, the brakes are barely adequate by today's standards, so I'm going to redo the whole brake system and be done with it.

Looks like Kanter offers a complete kit, rebuilt master cylinder, 4 new wheel cylinders with new components, and 4 sets of new shoes along with all the hardware for $425.

Has anyone ever have any problems with this Kanter kit?

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