Having the oil light on after warmed up at idle is how it used to be. Now the oil light stayed on when cold. I'm hoping the cleaned pan and pump screen combined with 10w40 oil will fix the problem. I have the pan and everything bolted up now, but I haven't gotten to the filter yet. While under the car I noticed the big hole in my muffler and rear exhaust pipe. I've been trying to cut the pipe off in front of the muffler so I could put the exhaust on it from the '51. It looks to be in OK condition still. I'm half way through cutting the pipe, but the grinder is hitting the pipe before the wheel makes it all the way through. Going to try a multi-tool with a wood/metal saw blade on it and see if it will get me the rest of the way through.

Here is a link to the you tube series I watched about removing the oil pan. Everything was the same for me except I did not have clearance issues removing the big bolt on the rear of the clutch cover.

YOU TUBE LINK - OIL PAN REMOVAL

8-5-17

I haven't driven the car since I painted the floor because I noticed the oil light was staying on when it was idling. I know some cars do this, but mine would not when it was cold. Revving the engine would turn the light off, but at a much higher RPM than usual. Oil was full, but it was time for an oil change so I figured I had better drop the pan and look for gunk clogging the oil pump.

Ordered an oil pan gasket from Ultramatic Dynamics which came fast.

I thought the pan would come down easily, just a lot of bolts to take off. Boy was I wrong! I had the pan flopping around, but couldn't get it off because there is a lip on the back that goes into the transmission. If you try to move the pan forward to clear it, it hits the balancer in the front.

After searching this forum, I found a link to a video a member here made showing what he had to do to remove the pan on his '47. It is nearly identical to what I ended up having to do. I'm so glad he posted it!

I found about 1/4" of gunk at the bottom of the pan. The oil pick up screen was clean until I popped the cover off. There I saw some build up in the middle. Got that cleaned off. Couldn't put it back together because it started to rain. I might as well stretch it out another couple of days and paint the pan while it's off. Hopefully the oil pressure will be fixed after all of this!

I haven't driven it more than 20 miles at a time, keeping it close to home. I still need to go through the overdrive and I have a tick in the engine which I think is lifter noise. So far, the drive train has not failed me. It's been silly little things that have gotten my heart racing thinking it will not start!

I used 1 quart to do the top of the floor and trunk. It was barely enough. I'll be buying more for underneath when I feel like doing this again.

7-9-17

Got the floor and trunk painted in POR-15 semi-gloss black. It is actually a lot shinier than I expected. No issues but I did miss a few spots on the second coat so they are duller than the rest. Not a big deal. I can feel how strong the paint is already. Put the seats back in place and I hope to drive it again soon.

Attach file:

---

  (180.33 KB)


  (195.10 KB)


  (161.95 KB)


  (117.89 KB)


  (128.12 KB)

Thanks Ross, I will pick some up before I put in a headliner. It will be a while before I get there.

7-4-17

So far so good. Got the roof cleaned with the POR cleaner/degreaser and followed by the POR metal prep. All the surface rust turned a gray ashy look.

Used plastic cups to pour the POR-15 into as they recommend you use a separate container. At first, the paint went everywhere as I was over filling the paint brush and it would drip like crazy. Luckily I was wearing a Tyvek suit, spray paint sock, respirator and goggles! At the end of the first coat, I saw the paint had eaten through the cup! Work fast before your container springs a leak!

Once I got the hang of it, the thin paint went on quickly. Two coats seems to have done the job. Second coat was much faster than the first. The floor boards will be easier since I know what to expect. I ordered semi gloss black for the floors which should arrive tomorrow.

Attach file:

---

  (273.70 KB)


  (292.87 KB)

Thanks guys I noticed a faint watermark on the rear wheel inner fender so it might be the trim on the side. I'll try the water trick and see what happens. We did have a downpour the other day and the water in the car was only a small puddle so this is a slow leak that accumulates over time.

7-1-17

Well bit the bullet and decided to clean the interior sheet metal and paint it with POR-15 (eventually). I will also do the underside of the car and hopefully will never have to worry about rust again.

This is a job you just have to jump into and start. I kept thinking about it and that just lead to procrastination because I knew what a nightmare it would be!

I thought it would take the day to remove the interior and I could start tomorrow, but I had the interior stripped in 10 minutes.

I noticed an unexpected pool of water under the rear seat. Everything was dry except for the puddle so I'm not sure where the water is getting in at. Nothing on the seats or door panel. Sucked it up with the shop vac. You can see the rusty floor in the rear seat area pic.

Armed with a face shield and dust mask, I went to work.

The roof wasn't too bad. Most of the tar came off with a scraper. I briefly hit it with the wire wheel and called it done.

The floor was another story.

Ended up taking about 2-1/2 hours and 1-1/2 wire wheels in my grinder. A huge mess that took multiple vacuum sessions to clean up.

I have gray POR-15 already. I'm thinking of using that on the inner roof and buying some semi-gloss black to do the floor and eventually the trunk. Didn't get to that today. Maybe I will paint the inner roof tomorrow.

Attach file:

---

  (144.49 KB)


  (153.20 KB)


  (141.42 KB)


  (153.96 KB)


  (200.96 KB)


  (167.40 KB)


  (145.51 KB)


  (125.78 KB)

I'm still trying to get my overdrive sorted out so I have a lot of pics on my project blog starting here Overdrive. My overdrive kickdown switch was missing so I am using a universal one.

Below is a pic showing the lockout knob location.

Attach file:

---

  (117.67 KB)