Perfect. That's my model and year also.

Jim G

Thank-you, BigKev. That is a nice one-list summary for me to use!

Jim G

OldGold: What year is your Packard that this brake light switch was a direct replacement for?

Jim G

HH56: Thanks for the pointer on the speedo cable. Can I safely pull the cable up and out of its sheath, lube it with graphite, and then be able to safely and properly get it back IN to the sheath and to engage the drive at the tranny end of the cable?

If so, I will probably try that real soon, as I would like toget a STEADY speedo needle and long life out of the cable!

Can a rank amateur actually take the clock apart, or does it require any expertise in clocks?

Jim G

JW: I am in Spicewood - 22 miles west of Bee Caves along Hwy 71 West, and 13 miles southeast of Marble Falls. Email me at JimGnitecki@msn.com or call at 830-693-6860. I'd love to meet and see your Packard. My Packard was owned at one point by Marvin James, who was the president of the Texas chapter of Packards International at the time. He is the one under whose ownership the engine was completely rebuilt and the interior redone. That was back in the 1980s. My Packard had only 4 owners before me, and was only unused once for a period of only maybe 7 years, when the original owner parked it before selling it to Marvin. I have substantial and impressive providence for it, including the original bill of sale. I even have the receipts for the first 20 or so years of registration.

HH565: even the wrong sender should have lighted up with the engine off, as zero psi will acitvate any sender, regardless of preset point. This particular sender that is in there is simply dead, as when my mechanic friend bypassed it, he did get the dash light did glow.

I think a sender with too high a psi activation point would drive you crazy, as it would come on anytime the engine is at idle!

Jim G

For anyone else making this replacement, pay close attentino to part numbers.

Max Merritt sent me a 439278, which is the sender for the 53-54 models, instead of the 416276 for the 51-52 models. JD there said it is interchangeable. Not quite so. The TERMINAL is different. The 438278 for the 53-54 models has a ring terminal, whereas the sender in my 52 right now has a spade temrinal. Changing the terminal is cheaper than the freight, so I'll change to a ring terminal, but it ticks me off having to do so, as I don't normally keep electrical terminations or the proper tools for them laying around. Fortunately, my pro mechanic freind does.

Jim G

The wiring on my 52 Packard 200 Deluxe is one step short of fossilized, so I figure I'd betetr replace it before it starts to exhibit regular mysterious electrical gremlins.

I want to to ensure that whatever wiring harness I get meets the following objectives:

1. Modern plastic insulation for durability (I'm not into strict restoration by ANY means, and I only want to have to do this rewiring ONCE)

2. Will be suitable for my conversion from 6 volt positive ground with generator to 12 volt negative ground with alternator

3. My car is a simple one (200 Deluxe model with manual everything, and I really, really like simplicity and want to KEEP it simple, BUT I will shortly be adding a modern air conditioning / heat /defrost unit, since I live in Texas, this car is my daily driver, and black cars on 100 degree days every day for a month are no fun. So, the wiring harness has to be able to handle this, including power to the AC compressor clutch and to a pusher fan to assist in making the condensor actually effective.

What brands and part numbers should I be looking at?

Jim G

There was a logical explanation for why I could not find the lower stud nuts: the prior owner had left them off.

I had a gut feeling that might be the case, so I simply unscrewed the 2 top bolts, and tilted the instrument panel out. I unscrewed the speedometer cable, and voila, the panel easily came forward to the extent that the tight wiring allowed.

That allowed me to put electrical tape on that bare spot I mentioned earlier.

While in there, I lubricated the speedometer cable and speedo head (not going crazy with the oil). I thought that might settlethe speeometer down a bit - it "swings" about 2 or 3 mph around the indicated speed on the road - but it made no detectable difference.

It also allowed me to check the fuse in the clock, and find that it IS good, so the clock itself must be in need of repair or replacement. I'll look around for one that someone has tested and found to be working.

It's also pretty obvious to me that the wiring harness is original, and getting close to be a candidate for fossilization, so I figure I'd better ask you guys what approach to take on that (separate posting to keep threads clean).

Jim G

Thank-you!

Jim G

Thanks, guys!

Jim G