The threaded pin and bushing gives a good deal of surface area contact and limits endwise movement. The joint is both grease-filled and heavily loaded. I don't think the clearance you are observing would cause any issues. In fact, I think you'd have problems if the fit was any tighter.

Some cars used that type of pin and bushing at both the lower and upper outer A-frame pivots, as well as the inner A frame pivots. They worked well as long as they were kept greased.

Packard used a combination of rubber and metal-to-metal in the interest of a superior ride.

Later model vehicles went to all rubber bushings. They also work well, but may give up a little in steering geometry stability in order to get a better ride and lower first cost along with less maintenence.

I believe that either the old or the new parts are fit for use. I wouldn't be surprised to learn that the internal threads in the bushings are slightly "hour glass" shaped by design.

There is some give in the suspension parts by design. Where metal to metal parts are used, some clearance is necessary to prevent binding and galling.

Rubber bushings are often used in suspension joints to allow limited "give", which prevents binding and absorbs some road harshness. I believe the Packard Saf T Flex system used both metal to metal and rubber bushings to give a selective balance of compliance and rigidity.

The exception would be the kingpin to knuckle bushing/needle bearing fit, which intended to be snug.

That's very odd behavior on the part of the brakes. Is there any chance that hot exhaust gas is reaching any part of the brake system?

With a non power brake system, I can't think of any other way the engine running or not could affect the brakes.

Have you adjusted all four brakes to spec? Are all the brake return springs in place? Are the brake drum diameters all within specification?

Black plugs may indicate that the fuel mixture is too rich. A cold engine running at no load will allow deposits to build up quickly on plugs, especially if the mixture is too rich.

Some "smoke" at the oil filler after stopping the engine is normal. It should not have a strong gasoline odor. Your engine will probably benefit from being driven on the road at moderate speeds once you get the brakes, etc in order.

Getting the engine up to operating temperature by running it for an hour or more on the open road at 35-45 MPH may do it a lot of good. Carry an extra quart or two of oil and a couple of gallons of water. Watch the gauges for any sign of trouble. Be sure the ammeter shows some charge.


Concerning the blowby, your engine may have worn rings and bearings, or it may just have sticky, gunmmy rings from sitting unused. If the engine doesn't knock, I would not worry about the blowby at this time. It may diminish once the engine gets some normal run time.

Your brakes probably either still have some air trapped in the lines, or you may have a leak somewhere in the system that is allowing air in.

You need to follow the shop manual procedure for bleeding the brake system.

That starter probably does need a complete rebuild. I would want to find out what the original diameter of the commutator was. Yours looks undersized to me, like it might have been cut down several times. You may need a new or better used armature to get proper brush contact with the commutator.

A really good starter will perform well and last a very long time if it is not abused.

Some types of starter abuse include:

Using a battery that is undersized, in poor condition, or chronically undercharged.

Using battery cables that are undersize or in poor condition.


Beyond that, operating the starter for more than 10 to 15 seconds at a time is harmful.

The engine should start immediately, and if it does not, don't continue cranking for more than 10 to 15 seconds without allowing the starter to rest for a minute to allow time for heat to dissipate.

Keep the engine in tune and in good condition so that it will start quickly and keep running once it is started. The distributor needs to be timed correctly and the automatic advance needs to work correctly.

Carburetor, choke, and manifold heat all need to work properly.

Using 12 volts on a 6 volt starter is abusive.


Junky starters are hard on batteries, too.

If your battery sat idle for two years with no attention, it's probably junk. Even a new battery could be expected to be dead after sitting idle for two years.

Batteries can last a long time, but they often don't, especially if they are left idle for long periods. Batteries self-discharge over time, and they can freeze in cold weather when not fully charged. That usually damages a battery beyond use.

I have about 18 discarded auto and truck batteries sitting around. Some have sat for years. Most of them will still show 12 volts, even though none of them could light up a pea bulb, let alone start a car. NO amount of charging will revive them. A good battery will deliver about 80% of it's nominal voltage when operating a starter. Aged, weak batteries will show more voltage drop under load, and very weak old batteries will drop close to zero volts under any significant load.

If your oil is not obviously loaded with gasoline, the fuel pump is not your problem.

If the engine has been running without obvious knocks, the bearings are probably OK.

If you have oil pressure problems, and it appears that you do, it points to a problem with the oil pump or the oil pickup assembly.

You may have a discharged battery. (Or a very poor connection somewhere, probably at the battery)

A car battery can be so discharged that it won't operate a horn or starter solenoid, yet it can still give a voltmeter reading of 6 volts, IF there is no load applied to the battery.

Try connecting your voltmeter as before and if you get a reading of 6 volts, turn on the headlights and take another look at the voltmeter. You may find that it reads zero. If so, charging the battery overnight may fix the immediate problem. I would clean the battery terminal connections and look for evidence of other loose or corroded connections such as the battery ground connection. When you get the car running again, be sure to check the ammeter with the engine running at at fast idle. It should show a charge rate of several amps, and turning on the headlights with the engine at a fast idle should not cause the ammeter to show discharge. Then shut off the headlights and any other electrical load and switch off the engine. The ammeter should now show 0. Restart the car and check the ammeter again at a fast idle. It should show at least several amps charge. If not, you have a charging system issue. Be sure your battery is in good condition and fully charged. If in doubt, load test the battery, or replace it with a new one. Batteries can last for several years, but they don't always. Always thoroughly check the battery and battery cables if you are having electrical issues.

Packards do not overheat by any reason of flaws in design. They have a far better cooling system design than the flathead Ford V8s. If the engine overheats, there is a problem, or problems, and it's most likely that the problem or problems are in the cooling system.

Rebuilding the engine is unlikely to affect the overheating problem. There is a cause for the overheating. Identify the cause before attempting any cures.