That is what I understand, yes, that is the correct seal.

The way you can figure this out, if you have a Packard Part # that you have a cross-reference to, and want to see what other applications that part works for, use the "Factory Parts List" feature on this website, for example:

Factor Parts List lookup 333546

I don't believe there is a cross-reference for the Rear Pinion Seal, there was a different seal used from prior years on 1953 and 1954, you have to get it from Max Merritt

Rear Pinion Seal, 1953-1954, Max Merritt

or Kanter

Kanter Rear Axle Parts, 1953-1954

I don't know if there is a cross-reference for the pinion seal, but it is available pretty quickly from Max or Kanter. If you have an Ultramatic, the rear U-joint is a rather tricky "Detroit" style, there are the U-Clips available from the major Packard vendors and also some of the Packard clubs.

Whichever u-joint design you have, You have to be very careful to make sure you keep the same # of turns for the pinion nut before and after, because of the crush sleeve design, there are threads here on how to do that.

Kevin,

I think you mean "unlock" when yo get down to 10 mph?

Or maybe you are talking about experience with a Twin-Ultramatic/Gear-Start, which would actually shift between 1st and 2nd?

Ross and everyone,

I don't have this problem, but perhaps I will someday. That's a great tip about the servo seals.

Does anyone have any experience with B&M "Trick Shift", would that help in this case? I think it is more designed to help slipping bands or other friction surfaces (if it actually works at all, I understand it's probably just re-marketed Type F), so just wondering if you've had any experience with that stuff.

Cheers and Thanks

Various posters here have said that a "five arm" puller is better than the typical three-arm puller that is advertised everywhere.

I found one of those on Amazon:

Five-arm rear-hub puller

Myself, I had a shop used to working on older full-size trucks pull and replace my rear-wheel cylinders, the shoes were still o.k.

1953 body rough but there, needs a carburetor, $3500

1953 Packard, San Jose

1950 Packard, runs, engine rewired, interior passable, paint faded but? $5000

1950 Packard, Oakland, CA

Restored 1948 Packard $28900

Restored 1948 Packard, San Ramon/Danville CA

You can get shocks from NAPA, Monroe gas-charged. I did this recently.

Be careful with the hoses. I found the cross-ref wasn't entirely accurate and ended up having to get the front hoses from Max. But if you take your hose off and bring it to NAPA you might have more luck. The NAPA I have access to is not very customer-friendly, they are the "just give me the number" kind of folks.

Max and Kanter also sells a carb kit that works well.

NAPA sells complete new wheel cylinders. Get those, don't bother rebuilding them, they are inexpensive.

Look on this website for folks' success with various fuel pump rebuild kits, but I just ended up getting a rebuilt fuel pump from Kanter on an exchange basis.

Spark plug wires - the ones you can get from NAPA now are the ones where you have to crimp the ends yourself, which requires a special tool.

Both Kanter and Max have radiator hoses. You might also have success at NAPA, again if you have a good parts guy.

If you have the Ultramatic you have a oil-water oil cooler for the transmission that is attached via a very short hose to the bottom of the water pump. Some folks have gotten a new top hose from Max (which tends to be a little long) and cut off a section of it to use as the short section. The oil cooler should be taken off and inspected, it's not unusual for those to leak. Kanter and Max both sell refurbished ones or some folks have gone to the trouble of installing an air-oil heat exchanger affixed to the back of the radiator.

Ross Miller's "Speedwell Garage" video series has a lot to offer "newbies"

Speedwell Garage on Youtube

I have a 1953 Cavalier and as Ross says, it's a pleasure to drive. The Ultramatic does not give you a great takeoff, and it's not really geared for going 80 mph on the Freeway, but both of those just encourage one to take it easy, which one should be doing anyhow. But I've driven it all over.

On this website in the "Directory" you will find a list of Packard vendors and service providers. Incredibly, all the engine parts for your casr are available new as well as many, many other parts. Some vendors you will want to get to know are Max Merrit and Kanter, as well as Tuscon Packard, Seatle Packard Company, Heinmuller Packard Parts, Packard Southwest, and Patrician Industries. Many of these vendors also advertise on Ebay.

Max, Kanter, and various others sell rebuild kits for your Power Brake unit (Easamatic or "Bendix Treadle-Vac") or you can get it rebuilt by Max, Kanter, or various others such as Tiger Treadlevac repair (see the Directory).

There is a lot of club support as well, and it's good to join the national Packard Club.

National Packard Club

One thing that no one has mentioned, but it is possible to take the oil pan off with the engine in the car, though a bit tedious. Some folks recommend taking that off and cleaning/inspecting it and the bottom end prior to getting the engine running. Probably good to first see if the engine can be turned over first as Ross says.

There is a huge video series on basically the same engine that goes through a number of things, most importantly from this standpoint, shows how to take off the oil pan. This is for a 1947 Packard but the basics are the same:

1947 Packard video series

I looked at various options and decided getting a rebuilt fuel pump from Kanter was the best deal. It cost a little $$ but has worked flawlessly.

You will find lots of good information and helpful tips in this thread. I measured everything as being 1" from the deck in my 327.

valve guide driver tool thread