There is no water or condensate in the line now. I had to pull the fuel pump and clean the debris (rust)out of the fuel chamber so I blew the gas line out with my air compressor with low pressure air back to the tank connection where I had wired on some filter paper to catch whatever came out. which was more of the rusty particles I had found in the pump. I did this several times, even forced some ethanol gas and diesel fuel through a couple of times but, I'm still getting rusty debris.

I'll try your bit with string and swab and alcohol and see what happens.
I do have a new electric pump I bought in case my mechanical failed but changed my mind so I could rig it up and try that if all else fails. I cut a piece of the line off the tank end and the line actually looks pretty good inside and not rusty, so I gues the rust must be in the low spots.

I don't want to even think of trying to route new line in there, I see no way to do it without a bunch of fittings.

What is a good solvent to use to clean out 5/16" steel fuel line between pump and tank.

It does make sense and I seem to remember reading a SB about using a sw when changing a rear tire. I was just wondering if you left the sw in manual (say up) and the limit sw should fail, that could be a problem, no?

Why is installing a manual over-ride a good idea. What are the pro's and con's.

Carl, Thanks,
I will call them and see what they have.

Thanks,
I have tried NAPA, Advance Auto, Auto Zone and Car-Quest here in the Williamsburg area with no (good) luck.
I have to go to Newport News later this week and will try Pep Boys and a couple of independents down there. I'll find one somewhere or figure out something.

Does anyone have any input as to where to buy a shut off valve that can be screwed into the 5/16" gas tank connection for the fuel line? I have never been able to remove the drain plug on the tank, so I figured adding a valve in the fuel line would permit changing an in line filter as well as permit draining the tank, when and if necessary. I have found some valves but, they are the compression or single flare nut type and none are 5/16", and I wouldn't trust them anyway.

Thanks for the info, I'll stick with the 5/16" original size.
Original line was probably reg. steel,NOT SS, correct?

What is the correct (or minimum) size fuel line from the tank to fuel pump for a 56 pat.
Thanks,

The sender in my 56 pat sure doesn't look like those pic's. There is no heater in the pat sender unit, just a rheostat.