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Board index » All Posts (fishnjim)




Re: Delco 1110811 cap clip?
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Fish'n Jim
Someone would have to be hoarding a cache of pre-50 distributor parts, those don't appear avail on-line unless someone knows a source?
The '50+ GM six clips look right and they are in-stock rebuilt, but I don't relish paying for a whole dist. to get one clip. Off to the stores. Thanks.

Posted on: 2013/8/29 7:52
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Delco 1110811 cap clip?
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Fish'n Jim
Things were going along great, and the little bottom tab, ~1/4 by 1/8, busted off the dist cap clip on one side. I bead blasted, painted, retensioned, and must've been too thin there. I'll try the usual suspect parts stores tomorrow, but is that clip even available? Everybody has caps, etc.
I know there are rebuilders so they might have spares/parts.
What others might fit or how to make? The 8N tractor (autolite) one I saw has a two hole bracket which is no go. I might be able to file the clip down. I guess, if push comes to shove, I can reverse the bracket and file off the sides to get a tab, heat and bend. It's too small to weld and on the floor somewhere. Any suggestions welcome...

Posted on: 2013/8/28 21:21
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Re: Opinions sought on oil pump rebuild and gas tank clean/repair
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Fish'n Jim
Improvise, adapt, and overcome.
After searching for days, I think I found a new tank that I can adapt for less than half the price of a repair. The bad news, costs almost as much to ship it.
I've been cleaning mine for two days now and it still smells like gas and the fuel line outlet has no plug in it but is water tight! Must be a rusted shut plugged screen in there. There's a good amount of solids. I'm going out now to try and flush them out but these tanks aren't designed for cleaning. So I don't hold much hope for this one except peel apart, blast, reseal, coat like a Renu job. That's more time and money. Long term I'll probably reroute the fuel fill and do away with the fender door anyway. I thought about a mustang type, with the filler in the trunk, which solves some floor pan issues, but I don't like gas in the passenger compartment. There's no fire wall on that side.

Posted on: 2013/8/26 18:24
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Re: Opinions sought on oil pump rebuild and gas tank clean/repair
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Fish'n Jim
I agree the best long term solution would be to pull the motor, go through it, rebuild, and reinstall, but that's not my mission here. I drain out what looked like Marvel mystery oil so things might already be messed up. I'm only trying to move the loose sludge out of the pan to put new oil in so it doesn't clog things up worse. I'm not worried about the hard stuff that kerosene won't touch or further up in the motor. I only need to assess if the motor runs or not, not how well or what's best. I've not decided whether to restore, sell, or do something else. Alot hinges on if it runs as is or not. There's a fair probability it won't go or it'll be ugly (rings, stuck lifters, etc.), so why sink more time/work($) in to watch that? I can use that money for rebuild/new. If it runs, it doubles it's value.

It's sad that it costs more to repair a tank than you can buy a new one for, if one could find a new one that "fit".
Might needs some bench engineering on this one. Seek out a new replacement tank that's close and retrofit or if the local radiator guy can split it, I/he might be able to blast it and get him to put it back together and then seal it. If I resto mod it, I might do custom SS or aluminum.

Posted on: 2013/8/25 19:56
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Re: Backfire
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Fish'n Jim
As someone said depends on what end, but there's raw fuel or fuel mixture entering either the exhaust and the temperature is high enough to touch it off or it's backing compression through the carb as it fires. Typical causes; timing, misfire(no/intermittent spark - spark plug, bad/lose plug wire, cap/rotor, coil), or valve(s) sticking.
If it sits alot, the oil drains down and worn or gummy things stick. A dead cylinder with bad rings will send gas down into the oil and it can end up anywhere then plus thins the oil. Go through the spark electrical, check the timing and oil for gas smell/cleanliness, and run some valve ease or engine treatment.
Combined with blueish smoke, to me, it's pointing to possible a ring issue. Compression test is in order.

Posted on: 2013/8/25 8:47
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Re: Opinions sought on oil pump rebuild and gas tank clean/repair
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Fish'n Jim
Any info on what they charge for the tank ReNu? I see WV is the closest to me.

Posted on: 2013/8/25 8:27
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Opinions sought on oil pump rebuild and gas tank clean/repair
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Fish'n Jim
With no filtration, I was not surprised to have to poke out some of the motor oil. I'm preparing for the kerosine flushes next(i.e.not running). But it got me thinking how good the oil pump is? I saw it's a gear pump, and it's old timey all metal, so it'll work as long as it turns and the stuff can get to it. But what's the experience tell us? Rebuild regrets?
The gas tank was no surprise either. The issue everyone similarly faces is how to best limit the damage. Is it best to send your problem to someone else? Do it yourself?
or what? Exchange vs repair? Recommendations on kits? I'm sure that's a, it depends, question so I'm saying mine is average, sludge and rust, but overall the tank is very solid. I'm whisking off the sending unit Monday, so that's covered. It was similarly rusty and had a large wad stuck on it so it always read empty I'm sure, but the wire was gone.

Posted on: 2013/8/24 21:11
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Re: '49 Deluxe 288 vacuum routing
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Fish'n Jim
Thanks again. I'm pretty(99.99+%) sure I got it right, after some more digging. I found another non-Packard source and they made the same "mistake" on the pump. I'm a ChemEng. and we live under vacuum, so that was the easy part. Whomever rerouted this tubing must have worked in a maze most of their life... I don't know if they just gave up, or it actually ran like that... I'm sure it wasn't going far with what I took out of the fuel pump sump. You could have repaired a good size chuckhole with that wad. Driving in the rain musta been fun.
My fix on the exhaust manifold carb heat riser worked out. It's a bit tricky without removing it but it's a neat solution, if you're tube is rotted off. We do alot of tubing too.

Posted on: 2013/8/24 21:00
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Re: '49 Deluxe 288 vacuum routing
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Fish'n Jim
Glad I'm not the only one who ever had this problem. Phew!
After closer inspection, I'm going to connect the line on the firewall to the wiper motor, proximity gives it away, and pump inlet and pump outlet to the manifold. It shows up the most times and makes the most flow sense. And it won't screw anything up, if it's wrong. If there's anything later, I can add.
My 30+ years of eng'g in hazardous chemicals have taught me to seek out other opinions when things aren't clear and to demand complete and thorough documentation on systems. 80% of all problems I troubleshot came down to not being run at design conditions. The rest usually weren't designed right or unforeseen/unresolvable.
Check, recheck, and check it again. Eliminates 99+% of errors. So far, the one I assumed and didn't check was wrong...

Posted on: 2013/8/21 8:37
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'49 Deluxe 288 vacuum routing
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Fish'n Jim
I looked at the plates and service manual and they rerouted the vacuum. I guess the pump wasn't working. I'll have the pump rebuilt soon and need to get tubing and plumb up. I've not yet got a real solid idea on the correct routing.
The booster pump inlet runs along the block and the end with the hose was not connected/plugged. The pump outlet wasn't connected.
The plate and service manual shows the pump out going to the intake manifold and the inlet extends past the picture behind the motor. They had the wiper motor connected on the intake. So if I connect pump there then the wiper motor needs vacuum source. Does the inlet go direct to the wiper motor or are there other vacuum needs/connections back at the firewall for interior/trans/clutch/ etc.? The heater valve is missing and there's a tube coming up there which might be the wiper connection or something else.
Is there a better routing source or schematic? Am I on the right track or not? Thanks.

Posted on: 2013/8/20 15:26
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