Howard,

Thanks.
I had been looking at using expanding rubber plugs, but they required a tight initial fit to be able to expand the plug.
Attached is a picture of the tool made from your info.
It needs to be tightened until it spins the turbine to keep it from moving when lifting. It provides consistent readings.

Thanks again

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I need to measure the reactor end play before I start disassembly of the torque converter in a '55 Ultramatic, serial number 540481. I do not have the special tool PK-27. Is there n alternative way?

Does anyone know the size of the plug covering the access to the left bank rear oil gallery plug on the back of the block? Section 5.0500 of the parts book lists every plug but this one.

Thanks.

Thanks for all the ideas.

Since I have been chasing a lot of hardened grease from sitting the past 40 years, I was hoping that it could be the problem at the bottom of the column by the lower shift lever. I'm still working to get it all out and be able to put in new grease.

I was hoping not to have to take off the steering wheel as I expect it will cause the cap to be damaged.

I checked the gear indicator and it is not an issue. Neither is the neutral safety switch.

The linkage isn't the issue as it has been removed.

The arm on the transmission, while it isn't connected to the column selector, moves positively to each specific position.

I guess I have to take off the wheel.

The Ultramatic gear selector on my 56 Clipper Deluxe is stuck in park.

The problem is in the steering column as the linkage is disconnected at the lower lever of the column. The selector lever will not pull back to move from the park position. There is a little movement forward. The lever will move back and forth within the park position.

From the parts diagram, it looks like the selector lever pushes down on the inner tube which has a spring, 3.3297, at the end. In that case it could be that the old grease introduced in the lower lever, 3.3276, is hard and is keeping the inner tube from moving down.

Has anyone had this problem?

Thanks

I spoke with both Egge and Kanter and they said that their current versions of this piston are built with a steel strut similar to the factory piston.

For my reference, what would be the other modifications done when using high performance pistons, and what would be target use of the completed vehicle?

If Egge produced pistons for the 374, would thee be a need for looking into the forged options, or would everyone just go with the Egge pistons?

Thanks

Has Egge changed their material? I ask because Jack had commented previously about having to run much higher clearance to allow for expansion and had significant slap.

Thanks for the information.
To continue, I think I need to include my definitions of performance levels:

Museum: The car is driven out of the museum, onto the transporter, and off at the show. It may be used in an occasional parade.

Driver: The car can be driven in any situation just as a new car. I should feel comfortable taking the car on a 500 mile trip on the highway, easily keeping up with traffic, at any time.

High Performance: The car can be driven in any situation just as a new car. I should feel comfortable driving the car on a track.

My target is to have a Driver. I have other cars that I take to the track. Having only choices on either side of the Driver level, I would go with a higher level of performance.

From what I've read, the Egge piston seems to fall more in the Museum category. That would seem to leave the custom forged piston as the best option. The next question would be piston design, should it be stock in appearance or are there improvements worth making. Compression height seems to be the one design element that must be retained.

I'm rebuilding the engine in my 56 Deluxe. The block is to be bored due to cylinder rust, so I'm going to need pistons. I want to have a car that can be driven without worrying about it. I don't mind that they are not stock. From what I've read, it looks like I will need to have pistons made.
What experiences have people had with the custom piston makers and are there recommendations? If they have been made, are those specs available?

Thanks,

Bob