Alert BigKev and he can repoint any thread if necessary.

I have an extra I can send you if you want. Should polish up well.

Thank you very much for this information. Most of the information that I gathered so far came together after looking at what you have sent so, I thank you. Perhaps tomorrow I will proceed to correctly align the oil pump with the distributor so that I can bring the timing back into the correct specs. Hopefully I can get a little more out of the engine or at least normal performance.

Thank you for you all your help, John

It could be done but the high beam wire would be awkward to connect to anything since it's a socket and not a screw termination. Would need to run a wire from the foot switch in place of the normal wire.

Since you don't know the fluid, I would remove the pan and clean it, and you can also drain the converter separately per the instructions in the manual (in the Ultramatic removal from car section).

I think standard Type F would work fine. Just makes the shifts and lock up feel not as "smooth" as maybe Dexron.

Additional instructions in the manual for the amount of fluid to add, then start the engine to fill the converter, then add the rest.

According to its previous owner, my '55 Twin Ultramatic was rebuilt sometime in the past and thankfully, it operates like a well rebuilt unit. Unfortunately, I don't have access to any of the specifics of the rebuild and now that the time to refresh the fluid and clean the screen/pan has arrived I'm not sure what trans fluid to use. I'm inclined to try TrickShift Type F to attempt to quell the lock-up groaning that occurs when it's still cold but I'm concerned that it may not play nice if the friction material used in the rebuild is of a more modern material. If any of you have any thoughts, I'd love to hear them. Like I said, the tranny behaves nicely (at least as far as TwinUltras are concerned) and I'd like to keep it that way.

Also, the manual says to re-fill 11qts. of fluid and then top off using the dipstick as a gauge. For those that have done this service, how much total fluid will I need? I'm guessing that 3 gallons should do it but would rather avoid a surprise in the middle of the job.

Thanks
SG

Don't know if this is the correct area or not? How to tell? Thanks

In doing a google seems the copper side should be down toward block.

My 1965 Imperial with a full gauge array has a Check Gauges light which I always thought was a nice feature as it drew my attention to a problem (especially being low on fuel) if I wasn’t paying attention. I don‘t drive my Packards so don’t need one for those (and if I did it would have to be for the 6v cars) but I do have a thought. How about repurposing the high bean indicator with a two-color LED that would act normally for the high beam but flash in a different color for the alert?

Instructions on positioning the engine and oil pump gears are given in a few paragraphs before the six gear is shown in figure 49 of this manual. It is exactly the same photo as shown on page 40 in the engine section of the full 46-50 manual but in this single booklet scan page numbers are missing but the photos are much better. You can see the punch marks they refer to at the end of the gear.

Well, the stars have aligned. The network, starting with Flackmaster lead me to a nice set of front fenders. Now, we just have to figure out the best way to get them half way across the country.