Hello Ernie et al,

I have had a pressure check performed and there is a leak. I have tried to upload the video, but keep getting an error message and it won’t upload.

Also, my message earlier this morning was in response to Dave in response to a private message received.

I continue to cogitate over this dilemma!

Good morning and thank you for your follow-up message! Appreciate the clarification. When you don’t have the history behind a particular problem, for me, it becomes a question of whether the condition is a common one or is it because the previous owner(s) not take good care of the vehicle. Having searched for a thread regarding my original question and not finding anything, I was beginning to feel that I was just unlucky with the 2 blocks I have. And to invest in another at a cost nearly $3K is not a decision taken lightly - although I’m leaning in that direction. A cracked block that has already been repaired and is leaking again doesn’t give me the peace of mind that it won’t develop into a bigger problem down the road for me or whomever owns the car in the future! Cheers!

Good morning!

Thanks for the responses, however, in my mind now I’m asking whether there is a history of cracking in 327s since at least 2 of you mention 359s not being any more prone than 327’s. I guess at the end of the day it is coming down to whether to take the risk and try to have the leak fixed on the Patrician block or purchase the block that has been magnafluxed and shows no cracks.

Is anyone willing to advise what I should be asking the seller about that block? He says it has been cleaned and magnafluxed, but has not checked it to see if it was ever bored. What else should I ask?

Regards,

54ocmac

Good day all,

Can anyone shed any history as to whether the 359’s were prone to cracking? I am ‘fortunate’ to have 2 blocks - one being the original block from my convertible that was not running when purchased and the other from a Patrician that had been overhauled and was running, but not very well. Had the original block cleaned and magnafluxed and it was cracked in multiple locations including between 4/5. Decided to dig into the Patrician engine to try to resolve its issues and found it was also crackedin one location (4/5) but repaired, but fails a pressure test. Soooo, before I invest in another block that has been cleaned and magnafluxed and reported to be sound/without cracks, is there a high probability that the block will be prone to cracking?

Thanks!

Good day!

Thank you for all your insight. I checked with Kanter and all they have are cast iron heads. I’ve reached out to Max Merritt, but they have not responded.

In comparing the spark plugs, the multi-washer plugs have a longer center electrode, so have installed same temp-rated plugs, but with shorter center electrode. Now no gap issue when the engine cranked.

I completely understand that the aluminum head is the preferred head, but was interested in your combined experiences and knowledge IF there was no alternative should it be unserviceable.

So, if I may, the engine in the car is not the original. When I purchased the convertible, it was not running and the owner could not tell me the last time it had nor provide any information on condition when it did run. Through an acquaintance knowledgeable about Packards, I found a 54 Patrician that was being sold in an estate sale. The engine had been recently overhauled, but it had a 288AT head on it. I bought it and had the engines swapped out. The aluminum head that was on the convertible engine was installed on the Pat’s. engine and then installed in the convertible. The engine has, in my opinion, never run properly and I have found out this week that it has compression issues in a couple of cylinders. SO, I’m seriously considering going back to the original engine for the convertible. Since I have no history on the original engine, are there any basic checks I can do on the engine to determine if the block is sound and worth taking the next steps toward overhaul? The odometer on the convertible said the car had 55,501 miles on it, so I’m thinking it would not need a complete overhaul. But it makes a whole lot of sense to go all the way. I can rotate the motor with a socket wrench, so know it isn’t frozen/siezed. Guess I’m probably naively trying to save a few bucks on what I fear will be an expensive endeavor.

Mark

Good day all! I have a 54 convertible that I’m looking to have the engine overhauled. At this point it is suspected/assumed that the aluminum head on the engine has been over-milled. This assumption is due to the fact that the correct spark plugs had multiple compression washers on them. Installing new plugs resulted in the gap being closed on each after the engine was cranked. Since aluminum heads appear to be as scarce as hen’s teeth, I was considering use of a 288AT head that I have assuming it is in spec/useable. I’ve read the different threads from years passed and, quite honestly, remain confused on whether that would be my best course of action if I cannot find a useable aluminum head. Seems the “AT” was for cars with Ultramatics (?). Assuming it COULD be as a viable alternative, can it be used on a car with standard 3-on-the-tree w/overdrive tranny?

Thanks for any clarification or insight that anyone may we willing to offer! Since some threads on this subject are a number of years old, I’m hoping there might be some progress in resolving this situation for those of us trying to preserve these fine automobiles!!!!!

As an alternate approach, I believe there is a shorter plug that I could use, but if the head has been over-milled, does it present other issues?

THANKS guys for the all the options/suggestions! I think I'll give the Ford-style switch a try first and keep looking for a Packard replacement as well! Regards, Mark

I think my '54's ignition switch has given up the ghost! It was working fine, but has stopped engaging the starter. It will work in the ACC and ON positions, but not START. SO, was wondering if anyone has any experience having one rebuilt? Not having much luck locating a replacement! Thank you!

Thanks for the reply, howver, when I say the motor won't turn over, I mean that the starter won't even turn the motor. If I jump it with a 12V system, it will start.

I bought a 54 convertible several years ago. It is in relatively good shape. When it's running, it runs pretty good. A couple of issues are that when it has been shut off, the starter will not turn the motor over. Once it cools down, it will, but forget it if you stop for a few minutes!! The other issue is I have electrical problems, i.e., intermittent tail lights, dash lights, etc. Visually, the wiring is fair to poor in condition. I'm not is a position today to start the desired frame-off restoration, but I would still like to enjoy the fun of the car. If you would, please provide you thoughts/suggestions on installation of a new wiring harness. Thanks!!!