Seems there is at least a consensus on how to calculate - use pressure at altitude expressed in pounds per square inch multiplied by the compression rating. Because I’m at just a skosh above sea level and the compression ratio per spec for the 359 used in the 5431’s is 8.7:1, I should expect to see ABOUT 127 psi if all the planets are in alignment! LOL

I think we’ll move forward by putting a bit of oil in the cylinders (maybe one to start) to see if there is any difference. Then, go from there.

Thanks again!

Thanks for the quick reply!

You and I are thinking the same, so I feel better that I’m not out in left field somewhere!

When compression was checked, yes, all plugs were out. We considered putting some oil in each cylinder, but decided against that at this time, so the only lubrication the rings have is residual from when the pistons were installed.

Good morning,

Are there any factory spec callouts for what the cylinder compression should be on the 359 CID engine? I’ve viewed various threads regarding this in the forum, but I don’t seem to find anything that nails down what it should be.

Here is my situation:
1. All the work on the block was completed, e.g., cleaned, checked for cracks, sleeves in 3 cylinders, valve job, etc.
2. Pistons deemed to be good, so new rings installed, new bearings installed, etc.
3. Aluminum head cleaned/inspected. It was not milled.

With all the above completed, the engine is ‘buttoned up’, but not installed back into the car. Installed an Autolite starter and the engine cranked Cylinder compression measured and is consistent in each cylinder at about 75 psi. I think we were expecting it to be higher, but pleased it was consistent.

I’ve seen threads that indicate compression in running engines to be in the 130’s and 140’s and one that indicated even lower compression in the 90’s, but these were not for the 359 engine. One responder even stated that as long as the engine is running good, no smoke, etc., then the lower compression should be “fine for now”.

Whereas I’m encouraged that the consistent compression from cylinder to cylinder is a good indicator, is it enough? My thinking is that it will increase with lubrication once it’s running and rings settle in, etc.

So . . . .

1. Is there a factory callout for cylinder compression?

2. If not, it there a consensus among ‘the Packard community’ what a reasonable number would be for an engine at the stage mine is?

Thanks again for any input/guidance!

Good afternoon!

If what is meant by “proper starter” is the Delco-Remy starter listed in the 54th Series specs, etc., I completely understand. However, this car has always suffered with not wanting to start when hot and the problem isn’t vapor lock. It has always seemed like the Delco starter (rebuilt) on the car doesn’t have the strength/torque to crank the engine when hot. I’ve read several threads in this website and other blogs for other car brands where heat soak is a problem for starters. It seems other Packard owners with the same issue have found that the Autolite starter gives a better result in helping alleviate this issue. I’m trying to keep the car as original as possible, but I’m weary of not driving it because I don’t want to be sitting someplace for a couple of hours while everything cools off so it will start OR calling AAA to come spin it with a 12v jump to get me moving again. If the Autolite will give me a better result, then I’m all for it!

Good morning and thanks for the reply!

I reached out to Merritt and they say they have a rebuilt Autolite MCL-6003 w/ solenoid. So, I found a pic of that P/N here in the packardinfo site. The thread said it was off a 53 Clipper w/ 288 engine. It does not look the same as the Delco in that it does not appear to have the Bendix gear mechanism to engage the starter with the flywheel. Will this starter work on my convertible 359 engine with key start?

Thanks!!

Good day! I’ve been searching the site for a thread that indicates the use of an Autolite starter in direct replacement of the Delco starter on a ‘54 Senior such as the convertible. This entry from 2019 was the closest to indicating that an Autolite could be used in place of the Delco, but the threaded seemed to end without confirmation of a P/N. I see in the Service Manual the callout in the 54th Series for and Autolite MCL6129, but is only listed in the column for 5400 not 5431. Can anyone clarify what Autolite starter P/N can be used on a ‘54 Convertible. Thank you!

I know this is a very, very long shot, but does anyone recognize the car in this picture? Last known location was in Grandview, MO at Walter’s Auto-body Repair, but it’s been almost 50 years ago.

Mark
540cmac

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Good day!

Well, seems as though I have a faulty turn signal switch assembly - at least in the fact that it will not activate the right rear turn signal. I found a spare switch assembly in my box of spare parts which I plugged into the under-dash receptacle and tried the signals. To my surprise, the right rear signal functioned, but the left did not. Just the opposite of what I was anticipating. At that point, I knew I had good connections to the right rear signal. So I disconnected the switch assembly, cleaned all the contacts and re-installed to the receptacle. Eureka!! All signals are now working!! (BTW, brake lights were working with the old assembly!). So now, I just have to locate my steering wheel puller and switch out the old for the new-old switch assembly!

Thank you all again for your support and guidance! It is greatly appreciated! On to the next item on the list!

Cheers!

Hey Howard and Ross,

Again, thanks for the quick replies!

The out-board tail lights on right/left side of the car are the turn signal/brake lights. Both sockets have 1154 bulbs. The in-board lights on both sides are just running lights, but they have 1129 bulbs in them. Not sure why.

There is a difference between the 2 turn signal/brake light sockets. The properly functioning side has the 2 contacts passing through a round piece of unclad G10. I assume there is a single spring under that piece of G10. The non-functioning side has a different internal set-up. There are 2 springs (one for each contact). There is no G10 stiffener on top of those springs. The wire crimped into the contact passes through the spring and the contact rests on top of said spring. I would say that could contribute to the problem except for the fact that light bulb does illuminate,

Tomorrow I will double check the brake lights.

Now, for the switch mechanism, I’ve considered that could be a possible source. Although I have cycled it numerous times thinking there could be some corrosion/dirt, etc., nothing changes. I may remove it tomorrow, as well, so I can get a look at its’ condition.

I’m sure more to follow!

Hello again,

Thank you for your input and suggestions for resolving my dilemma! I have tried to put all of the info to good use. I’ve re-cleaned everything; made sure grounds are tight against clean/bare metal; rechecked continuity, etc. I replaced the circuit breakers on the instrument cluster. There are definitely improvements, but unfortunately, I’m still having one obvious issue. I still do NOT have a right rear turn signal.

The current improved situation is as follows:

1. With parking/head lights OFF, I have a properly functioning left turn signal front, rear and dash indicator light. Flashing is at a speed that I believe to be correct. Flasher is making an audible tic—-tic—-tic; not a rapid tictictic. The right front turn signal is flashing rapidly and there is no right rear turn signal at all. Flasher is emitting rapid, barely audible tictictic.

2. With parking/head lights ON, all tail lights function. The out-board left and right lights are slightly dimmer than the in-board. When left turn signal is initiated, the turn signal NOW functions as described in #1 above. Before, it did not function when parking/head lights were on. The right front turn signal flashes rapidly. There is NO right rear turn signal.

I took all of this one step further and checked the voltage coming through the line to the light bulb sockets. For the properly functioning left turn signal, at the rear connection, I’m getting a voltage reading that cycles between about 1.5Vdc and 3Vdc. It’s hard to be exact as it fluctuates constantly. I’m assuming this is due to the function of the flasher. For the right side, I’m only reading about 0.5Vdc with some fluctuation up to maybe 1Vdc. Voltage readings for the out-board/in-board tail lights is 4.8 and 5Vdc respectively. Ugh!

I’ve about resolved myself into having to use the old hand signals and or a right turn semaphore flag to signal my right turn intentions! Please advise your thoughts, if any, based on this updated status.

Thanks so much!