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Board index » All Posts (Larry51)

Re: Mystery Cylinder Head
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Thanks very much for your help with this. Certainly steers me in the right direction.

I might message someone I know who has a '41 and get them to measure the head on their car. That would hopefully make it conclusive.

Posted on: 2022/4/28 22:47

Mystery Cylinder Head
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I have a mystery cylinder head and am hoping someone can help me identify it. It is an 8-cylinder 29-stud head. Markings are: P/No 367635. There is a casting tag “9 (dot) 27” with “PMC” immediately above it.
Has “HC’ above “PACKARD” on top where you would perhaps see “Thunderbolt” on other heads, so would be a High Compression version, which gives a bit of a hint I guess. No other markings.

Have looked carefully for any stamped numbers but found none. I would have thought there’d be something stamped (serial number?) to assist in identifying it. Have looked on packardinfo but haven’t found any info that really tells me which year the head is from.

Head is a little smaller than the other heads that I have off ’51 and ’52 288ci engines. It is 32-3/4inches long as opposed to 34-1/4inches for the ’51 heads. About ¼” narrower than the ‘51/52 heads.

The Part Number 367635 was used on a few different year-model straight Eight heads (- covering 1920’s to 1951) so that’s no help.

Can I assume the “9/27” means it was cast in September 1927?

Any help greatly appreciated thanks!

Posted on: 2022/4/27 23:36

Re: Larry's 1951 Club Sedan Project
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Thanks BigKev. I'm away for two weeks working so it might be a while before I get started on my posts again. Will try blogging again next chance I get.

Posted on: 2016/3/2 8:02

Re: HA's 52 200 Grey Ghost
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I went to the local auto paint shop and they had some special very bright, very transparent red which was the exact same shade as you would use for repainting faded tail-light lenses. But it wasn't for that. It was intended for high-end air-brushing or a sexy paint job on a hot rod etc. Very expensive at $30 for around 4ozs.Uses normal thinners like Dulon etc.

Don't remember the brand name but I can try and find the bottle if you want. It might have come from the US originally.

I tried a few ways of painting it on a piece of thin plastic and the best outcome was painting the chrome-look details with the finger-nail brush (very fine, worked well) then I sprayed the red over the rest of the plastic with one of those small aerosol 'test sprayers'. Called a 'Pre Val Spray Gun' made by the Precision Valve Corporation in Yonkers, USA. Handy, because you don't want to use a full-size gun . . . an air brush would also do the job well.

Then where you want red and the chrome showing behind it you do the reverse, just brushing the silver over the back carefully but not too much so as to lift the red. Spraying it would have been better but I just brushed it and was pleased with the result, because you are not looking 'through' the plastic so don't see imperfections.

Most of the old chrome and red had peeled off the lens so I scraped the remaining loose stuff off best as I could. It turned out nice.

Posted on: 2016/3/1 7:26

Re: Larry's 1951 Club Sedan Project
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Righto - this is a test page to see why I can't add images to my blog . . . .

Now trying to upload an image . . . . . .

[img width=350]<a href="http://s829.photobucket.com/user/Larry51_2009/media/Packard%20Project/Ultramatic%20Overhaul/P1000781_zpszpvvtyaz.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz218/Larry51_2009/Packard%20Project/Ultramatic%20Overhaul/P1000781_zpszpvvtyaz.jpg" border="0" alt="781 photo P1000781_zpszpvvtyaz.jpg"/></a>[/img]

Well . . . WHADDAYA KNOW . . . it WORKED!

I'll try another Maybe It will work again.

[img width=350]<a href="http://s829.photobucket.com/user/Larry51_2009/media/Packard%20Project/Ultramatic%20Overhaul/P1000785_zpsh012gihg.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz218/Larry51_2009/Packard%20Project/Ultramatic%20Overhaul/P1000785_zpsh012gihg.jpg" border="0" alt="785 photo P1000785_zpsh012gihg.jpg"/></a>[/img]

ok . . . ruling a line under that frustrating episode, Now I'll continue if it lets me. I can't edit what I wrote before so here we go again:


The interior of the converter looks clean, red ATF and no debris present. Inspected everything for cracks, scoring etc and was OK.

Noted the thrust washer orientation in regard to the brass surface versus the bright steel surface (see photo in post #284 above).

There is wear on the splines of the reactor shaft. I don't have a better one so hoping this is acceptable and won't cause a problem
[img width=350]<a href="http://s829.photobucket.com/user/Larry51_2009/media/Packard%20Project/Ultramatic%20Overhaul/P1000786_zpstyjjnrsk.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz218/Larry51_2009/Packard%20Project/Ultramatic%20Overhaul/P1000786_zpstyjjnrsk.jpg" border="0" alt="786 photo P1000786_zpstyjjnrsk.jpg"/></a>[/img]

Direct Drive clutch fixed and driven plates, with old friction plate in place. There were two versions could appear in a 24th Series Ultramatic- an 11-1/4inch (this one) and a 9-inch clutch. A few parts were different. More about that below
[img width=350]<a href="http://s829.photobucket.com/user/Larry51_2009/media/Packard%20Project/Ultramatic%20Overhaul/P1000801_zpsgsa396rf.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz218/Larry51_2009/Packard%20Project/Ultramatic%20Overhaul/P1000801_zpsgsa396rf.jpg" border="0" alt="801 photo P1000801_zpsgsa396rf.jpg"/></a>[/img]

I would advise any person doing an Ultramatic overhaul to really go through the Parts Listing carefully to become acquainted with the different types of Ultramatic used in their models.

I was unsure of what had been used originally in mine, and what might have been swapped in or out. Also, there were many service changes. The Parts Listing does a good job of stating what part numbers go together with others for (say) a 9inch clutch versus an 11-1/4inch clutch. Likewise the matching of parts in the six plate and 5 plate clutch. You could possibly find a six-plate clutch in a 24th series Ultramatic (- like I have just done) if someone has swapped an Ultra from a 300 Series or 400 Series 1951/2/3 car into a 200 Series Packard.

This spare I'm working on must have come from a Senior model, or Hearse, or Ambulance maybe. Mine is almost certainly from a 300 because I have a few pieces of 300 trim amongst my parts. I found also that the six-plater was standard issue in the '250' Sports car and Convertible, and also would come with a '200' if that 200-series was fitted with the optional 300 engine instead of the standard 288 ci engine.

All handy to know stuff.

I seem to recall seeing a document that gave Ultramatic Serial Number (etc) data, and which might have specified the S/Number of the Ultramatic that first came out with the 9inch clutch. It was very early 25th Series (1952) if I recollect the info from the Service Counsellor that describes the change. Did some 24th series cars have Ultramatics with the 9inch clutch also?

Marked relative position of clutch plate to housing, as advised by Manual.

GROUNDHOG DAY. Once again, cannot load any more images. System lets me upload 4 or maybe 5 then no more. Will await a fix, or if the problem remains maybe I'll do a series of "Short Stories", with 4 or 5 images in each one.

What fun hey!

Posted on: 2016/3/1 6:04

Re: HA's 52 200 Grey Ghost
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I had to refurbish the plastic emblem on the boot (trunk) of my '51 and tried a range of silver paint etc to try and get the right effect. It had to go over some red dye-type 'paint' also, which is translucent. Nothing looked good.

Then I finally found a silver nail polish that blitzed everything else!! It truly looked like chrome, and adhered ok, was close to the original look. I tried it on clear plastic sheet to get the effect. You can brush it carefully in small areas.

Suggest you check out women's nail polish. Bit embarrassing trying it on yourself - take a lady. Lol

Posted on: 2016/2/29 18:56

Re: head gasket problems with 1935 eight
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The copper head gasket spray has a good reputation, it can seal a small gap, plus distributes the heat more evenly on the gasket-to-head interface. Good stuff to use in my opinion.
Permatec Copper Spray

In this situation I would definitely use a new gasket from a genuine Packard source, they will compress whereas an old one refitted will not always seal as reliably (- although they often do, but you are taking a bit of a risk).

I guess you tightened the head nuts down in sequence as per the Service Manual(?), so it might be a leak via a crack around a stud or elsewhere. Get other opinions, but IMO how and when you did the re-torquing is not likely to be the issue in this case, you seem to have done the right thing. Just don't keep torquing in an attempt to fix the leak as you might break or strip a stud.

Posted on: 2016/2/29 18:03

Re: BigKev's 1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Sedan
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Thanks - I've got a plan for a home-made one using the threaded rod etc like you suggested. Will post a few pics when it's done.

Posted on: 2016/2/28 8:23

Re: BigKev's 1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Sedan
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Looking good BigKev. It's quite a different tranny case to my '51 Ultra, but the High Range Clutch looks very similar. (Although I have found the 5-plate part numbers for my clutch housing are different than the 6-plate ones for some parts, which could prove a bit of a trap if it had been overlooked).

Bushing is different too, with that slot cut across it.

Your new spring compressor is a great find . . . I can't get one here, would have to import from the States, which will take a couple of weeks, so I'm in the process of making one which I hope will do the job.

Posted on: 2016/2/27 19:46

Re: Larry's 1951 Club Sedan Project
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Torque Converter Overhaul

Started this some weeks ago, so I'm doing the catch-up blog thing for a few posts.

Because I suspect some of the tranny leaks I have are from the torque converter, the first stage will be to recon a spare one complete with spare bell housing that was attached to it. Both are very dirty condition and I've already noticed one of the drain plugs is snapped off flush with the housing. Will need to remove that and find a new plug.

Good brass plug
[img width=350]<a href="http://s829.photobucket.com/user/Larry51_2009/media/Packard%20Project/Ultramatic%20Overhaul/P1000776_zpse82ut08r.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz218/Larry51_2009/Packard%20Project/Ultramatic%20Overhaul/P1000776_zpse82ut08r.jpg" border="0" alt="776 photo P1000776_zpse82ut08r.jpg"/></a>[/img]

The broken one - damn! Wasn't all that easy to get it out cleanly, took a few hours
[img width=350]<a href="http://s829.photobucket.com/user/Larry51_2009/media/Packard%20Project/Ultramatic%20Overhaul/P1000777_zpsnkeqtv7p.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz218/Larry51_2009/Packard%20Project/Ultramatic%20Overhaul/P1000777_zpsnkeqtv7p.jpg" border="0" alt="777 photo P1000777_zpsnkeqtv7p.jpg"/></a>[/img]

No idea what condition the guts of the converter will be like but I have new seal and bushing for it.

Reading the manual I need to check the converter shaft backlash so adapted a dial indicator to a small tool holder which worked OK. Normally you might use the special micrometer the Manual recommends IF you can find one! (Someone on packardinfo has one of these). I'll settle for the alternative method.

Dial Indicator method can replace the Packard special tool
[img width=350]<a href="http://s829.photobucket.com/user/Larry51_2009/media/Packard%20Project/Ultramatic%20Overhaul/P1000799_zpsepwturep.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz218/Larry51_2009/Packard%20Project/Ultramatic%20Overhaul/P1000799_zpsepwturep.jpg" border="0" alt="779 photo P1000799_zpsepwturep.jpg"/></a>[/img]

[img align=left width=350]<a href="http://s829.photobucket.com/user/Larry51_2009/media/Packard%20Project/Ultramatic%20Overhaul/P1000765_zpsktpmurvu.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz218/Larry51_2009/Packard%20Project/Ultramatic%20Overhaul/P1000765_zpsktpmurvu.jpg" border="0" alt="765 photo P1000765_zpsktpmurvu.jpg"/></a>[/img]

The backlash was just within limits. I don't have any thrust spacers other than the one fitted so that was fortunate.

I've been wondering what conditions can alter the backlash reading - whether it might change with wear, or is a manufacturing issue, or if swapping certain parts in the converter would alter it??

Maybe someone knows the answer, as I couldn't easily figure that out, and it would be very handy to know the answer!

Next, undid the converter pump cap bolts after noting that there were two punch marks adjacent for alignment.

Existing punch marks
Click to see original Image in a new window

The interior of the converter looks clean, with red ATF (- not much black ATF anywhere) and no debris present. Inspected everything for cracks, scoring etc and was OK.

EDIT: Well, I'm having no luck adding my images today . . . . the blog goes off to 'never-never land' when I add one. Maybe the images are too large?? (No - 640x480, around 150KB)
So I'll try again later when the Server has had it's afternoon nap. Apologies for the partial blog.

Have asked BigKev for help with this problem which won't go away.




Noted the thrust washer orientation



Marked relative position of clutch plate to housing, as advised by Manual. These units are balanced at the factory so it's important to do these markings.


Inspected the bell housing bushing and oil seal. Some wear and markings on the bushing so it will be replaced as will the seal.

Measured the piston ring gaps as per the Manual and found they were both worn beyond spec so will replace them.


Drilled out the broken brass drain plug from the converter clutch housing with a drill bit a tad smaller than the plug. Fingers crossed this will work. Scratched the remains of the brass thread out as much as possible with some riffler files. I re-tapped the 1/8 inch NPT (tapered) thread as closely as possible and a new NPT Allen (hex key) plug fitted OK. Swapped the other side brass plug for a similar Allen plug to keep the balance the same. I will use thread tape on these as a precaution.

P851, 869

Posted on: 2016/2/27 19:09

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