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Board index » All Posts (1stpackard)




Re: 1924 packard, 6 cylinder, roadster , bumpers needed
#1
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

1stpackard
David,
Thank you, The car does not have front wheel brakes and the bumper connections were obviously cobbled together.

Could you let me know where the engine / block serial or casting number are located.

We will register the car --At the present the car is scattered across the garage floor and my wife is questioning my sanity.

Thank,
Tom Sullivan

Posted on: 2011/5/25 19:02
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Re: 1924 packard, 6 cylinder, roadster , bumpers needed
#2
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

1stpackard
Both cars are apart and being worked on and they are our first Packards. When we get the cars on the road then we will register them.
1stpackard
Tom Sullivan.

Posted on: 2011/5/15 22:23
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1924 packard, 6 cylinder, roadster , bumpers needed
#3
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

1stpackard
We are preparing to restore our recently purchased 24, 6 cylinder roadster. Can anyone help us find both front and rear bumpers and mounting brackets.

Thanks,
1stpackard

Posted on: 2011/5/15 16:50
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Re: Engine Bearings, 12 cylinder , 1936 year, 14 series
#4
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

1stpackard
Owen,
Thank you for taking the time to respond and for sending the link. The Dale Adams article on motor restoration is perfect, especially for a novice like myself.

I did talk to Max Merritt Co. and they do have someone reproducing / manufacturing new rod bearings to suite.

This is my first packard and it is a learning experience ---also great fun.

Thanks again,

Tom

Posted on: 2011/2/23 21:24
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Re: Oil Pressure & restart after oil pump overhall
#5
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

1stpackard
Thank you for the information and address.
1stpackard, Tom

Posted on: 2011/2/20 22:44
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Re: Oil Pressure & restart after oil pump overhall
#6
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

1stpackard
Could you please give the title of the paper or an address for information / ordering?
Thanks, Tom

Posted on: 2011/2/20 16:54
 Top 


Re: Oil Pressure & restart after oil pump overhall
#7
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

1stpackard
Dave,
Thank you for the note. I now understand the problem and have been advised on how to prime the pump.

Our 14 series packard has a gear type pump which sits above the oil reservoir / oil pan. The pump is mechanical driven and cannot draw a vacuum when empty. The procedure as described to me but not yet implemented, is to stuff the pump with petroleum jelly or a suitable grease before installing. When ready to start for the first time provide an external source / supply of oil under pressure through the oil filter line or similar external port. The external pump should be pumping prior to starting the engine.

We has not gotten to the point of restarting the engine.

Thank you for the time to write.

Tom

Posted on: 2011/2/20 16:15
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Engine Bearings, 12 cylinder , 1936 year, 14 series
#8
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

1stpackard
We need to purchase new rod bearings for our car. Can someone suggest a source.

Tom, 1stpackard

Posted on: 2011/2/20 15:50
 Top 


Oil Pressure & restart after oil pump overhall
#9
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

1stpackard
Our 1936 packard 12 cyl sedan had low oil pressure10-15 lbs but otherwise runs well. The engine apears to be original and unmolested but who knowes.

The oil pump was removed, disassembled and found to be within the tolerances specified in the manual.The pump was reassembled with new gaskets and reinstalled. The oil filter was full of crap and we addressed this.

Before restarting the car is there a procedure for priming the pump etc?

1stpackard, Tom




1stpackard

Tom

Posted on: 2011/2/13 13:17
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Re: Removing oil pan on '36 Twelve
#10
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

1stpackard
The oil pan is off the car. An electric heat gun was used. On high range it put out probably 125 to 150 + - degrees. This is just enough to soften the 30 plus year old gasket and glue. A stiff blade putty knife was driven through the joint/ seam between the aluminum pan and cast iron block. Then very thin wood wedges were inserted. A steel hammer was used to strike the pan, causing a vibration in the aluminum pan structure. Between strikes, the all the wedges were driven in a little further. It took an hour but off it came and no damage to the pan.

Thanks, Tom
1stpackard

Posted on: 2011/1/9 17:26
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