Thanks for both of the replies. Mine has a fuse instead of the circuit breaker, but pretty much the same otherwise. Still doesn't work and I think it's wired properly....oh well. I'll pull it and do a bench test...Drake

Hey, Anybody have a decent wiring diagram of the electric wiper used on the 1940 1801 A? The chassis diagram doesn't help at all. thanks

Thanks guys, got it off. Poured some Mouse Milk around the bolts and let it sit over night. Hooked a hoist to it and got some tension and left a few nuts on just loose. Turned it over about twice, then kept tapping it with a 3 lb maul and it worked loose.
Now I'm trying to get the pan off and it looks like I'll have to pull the drag link arm to get it to clear. Decided to put a set of rings in it as well.....always something. D

Thanks for the comeback. I drive the car most every day when the sun is out. So it turns over fine. I was just worried that it may warp the head to break if free with compression.

Anybody got a good way to loosen the head on a 282 eight? Mine is pretty clean and when I pulled the nuts (a few studs came with them) the studs don't look like they are corroded to the head too bad. This probably sounds nuts but I was wondering about turning the eng over, but I don't want to warp the head either.

Well Guys, that was a real good conversation. I appreciate it. I'll probably pull the pan when I do the head. Was thinking of that. Sounds like a good winter project. 'Course might as well pull the clip and do the engine right with paint etc. Then, of course, the is the frame to do as well. Does it never end? But seriously, thanks for info. The internet is sure better than the old days of laboriously writing tons of letters. Drake

I've got a '40 1801A Henney Ambulance, have been driving it for about 25 years, but not a lot. It has always blown oil smoke and runs through oil pretty fast. The car has about 20 some thousand miles on it. I did a compression check and 2-7 are around 85-90. 1 and 8 are 75 and 55. The head has oil leaking up through the head bolts in a few spots. I poured oil into 1 and 8 and the compression popped right up to 95+psi. So it looks like rings. I've got a new head gasket for it and am tempted to put it one before I have to rebuild the engine. I had a Packard fellow in Arizona tell me to run it at a fast idle and pour about a cup of water down the carb to blast the rings free. I've heard about this in the past. I've had pretty good luck pickling a few of my old cars with transmission fluid in the holes as well over the years.
So what do any of you think about all of this. I do plan on rebuilding the eng at some point, but with the low miles it still holds great oil pressure and I'd like to wait a bit to do other things with car. thanks, Drake

Thanks for the comeback on the clip. I figured it was at least as easy as my '39 Chrysler. This will be a good summer project here in the Northland. I bought this car from a kid whose grandfather bought it off of the government installation in Northern Idaho in 1948. It was an army ambulance and I figure it never turned a wheel during the war. The old guy never drove it and the grandson hauled it up the alcan on a trailer. I got it started in the early nineties. It has 20,000 on the odometer. When I did the brakes the springs were still bright color/coded and the shoes were like new. I've pulled all the u joints apart and they are perfect. A great old car that the folks here just love....

Howdy, I'm new to the forum but have had my 1940 1801A Henney ambulance for about 20 years. I use it as a daily driver in the summer here in Alaska, and it is about time to pull the engine and overhaul it. With my other old cars it has always been a lot easier to just pull the front clip. I don't have the body manual. Could anyone point me in the right direction.
The reason I'd like to do it this way is so I can blast and paint the frame, firewall etc before I stick the eng back in.