Thanks Bilzpack, I also think this is the best and most simple. I'm working on the hole size difference question.
Thanks,
Larry

Hi, I have the 2262-9 with a 288 motor. I have the distribution tube out and the waterpump removed. I am replacing the backing plate on the waterpump because it is eroded and the exit hole for the water is too big and not a good shape (it seems to have been modified poorly). The new backing plate exit hole is almost the perfect shape of the front of the distribution tube. But the distribution tube has two small tabs bent at right angles on the flat side of the tube. When I removed the water pump the distribution tube was flush against the block and the two tabs were captured between the block and the backing plate of the waterpump.
Questions:
1. Is this the correct position for the tube to be mounted with the tabs captured between the block and the backing plate of the waterpump?
2. Is it possible to mount the waterpump with the distribution extending through the backing plate and the tabs fitting inside the waterpump? This would make a much better fit and better transfer of water into the distribution tube but it might be very difficult to get the water pump/distribution tube mounted. It would move the distribution tube forward about 1/8" and slightly change the location of the water outlet holes inside the motor a small amount. Which is the correct way to mount it, #1 or #2?
Thanks,
Larry

Hi, I have a 2262-9 with a 288 motor. I am looking into several items relate to overheating. A temp profile with a IR meter shows the hottest area is around Cylinder #8. I also have a failed #8 exhaust valve, probably because of the heat. I have the distribution tube out. It is clean and in good shape. There are 3 each holes on the valve side at the front that are 0.430" in dia, the rest on the valve side are 0.268" in dia. On the cylinder side, there is one 0.268" hole at the front followed by 2 ea holes that are 0.430" and the rest are 0.268" all the way to the end. These seem to be laid out and sized for a very specific purpose.
Questions:
1. What if I enlarge the last two holes on the valve side to get more coolant to the #8 exhaust valve?
2. How much should I enlarge the last two holes? I am aware that it will take away coolant from the other holes.
3. I am also very curious why the larger holes are up front and not in the rear, anyone know?
That's all on this post, I'll do another on a related problem.
Thanks,
Larry

Hi, I want to thank everyone for their comments on my combination of problems that I wrote about. After reviewing the comments, I think I will make a short, simple. separate post about each issue that I am seeking information on. So, thanks, and look for my new posts.
Larry

Hi, This is my first post about an overheating problem I have on my 2262-9 288 motor. Here is some upfront info on what has been done so far. I had the engine rebuilt about 2000 miles ago. New pistons, rings, exhaust valves and guides, all seats and intake valves ground. Removed the freeze plugs and cleaned the block inside very well,it has a rebuilt water, new radiator and 160 thermostat and all hose are clean. The carb has been rebuilt, timing set to 6 deg BTDC and valves adjusted to spec after warmup.
If the outside temp is 70deg or higher, the motor temp will rise till the thermostat opens, then it will maintain normal temp for a minute or two then start to climb out of control and get hot. After driving it thru the winter and into the spring, I ended up with low compression in cyl #8. A leak down test said that the exhaust valve was bad. I have pulled the head, cleaned it much better than before inside and used a dremel tool to remove some casting deposits that were restricting some of the coolant openings especially about cyl #8 and 7. I then checked the mating openings in the block and removed some casting deposits in a few of them. I removed the distribution tube again and it is clean and looks OK. I also found the backing plate for the water pump outlet hole for water to go into the distribuion to not be a good fit for the tube. I will be replacing the plate for a better fit. I am also in the process of replacing the exhaust valve in#8. It is not out yet so I don't know the condition of the seat but hoping it is OK and only needs lappiing in with the new valve. I am planning to install a stainless steel exhaust valve in #8, is that a good idea or not? So, some questions; has anyone ever enlagred the holes in the rear of the distribution tube to put more water on the exhaust valve supports in the area of #8? If so by how much and what was the effect on the other cylinders? Also, does the distribution tube fit slightly inside of the water pump backing plate or just sit flush with it? One othe thing, I have an old spring compressor tool to remove the valve, have compressed the spring but can't get the keepers to release and free up the valve. Any hints on how to do that?
That's all for now. I would sure appreciate any helpful information. Thanks, Larry