Are you looking for the outlet? I might have a spare if you need it. The spare inlet however is non factory on that engine.

I had a throttle cable for one of my small engines that had seized up.

Hit it with a propane torch and heated up the shell, being careful not to go to far and damage the handle, then juiced it with ATF/Acetone while it was still good and warm. That got it loose. Then I weighted it down on the concrete with a couple of bricks and pressure washed it at close range. Got a metric crap-ton of rust out of the inside of the shell. Then soaked it again; haven't had any issues with it ten years later. It lives outside, undercover.

That looks like a throttle return spring. It may or may not be original.

Is everything working as it should be? Any difference in the way systems are behaving....

My '37 had about three different springs on it as none of them were correct and a moron P.O. had just kept kludging it up rather than find the right part for the job, and connect the linkage properly.

Now we know what computers do when they're stoned out of their gourds.

All we need to go with that is a platinum blonde, well-sculpted, and we're good to go.

Yard art.

Period.

I seriously doubt it.

What BigKev said. Had the same problem with my '37 when I swapped the (better looking) '40 cap. Stalled the car within two miles. Baffled me. Rebuilt the fuel pump. same thing. Pulled the cap.

Ran perfectly.

I had several weekends working on my '40 110, with cracked fenders, severe damage on the lower front edges of the fenders, and metal far to thin to weld with the Harbor Freight wire feed.

Yeah, that was fun.

I did tack-weld in a 3/16" rod on almost all of the lower edges of the fenders, and welded in patches behind the cracks on one fender, and riveted the other. Then a layer of fiberglass-filler, a layer of fiberglass, and another layer of filler. The leading 1/4 of the front fenders was thin enough to dent with my thumb. The (trash quality) fenders are much stronger now. The repairs will be primed and painted body-color, but the rest of the patina will remain.

Stuck valves, all day long.

I had stuck valves in my '37 237 and my '40 110. I soaked them both in Marvel Mystery Oil, Diesel, and a few other concoctions.

Pretty much zero effect.

I pulled the heads, intake/exhaust manifolds and opened up the lifter galleries; in both cases the No 3 and 4 valves were stuck open. On the '37, the tappets of the day had a dome-topped screw-type adjustment. Some moron ground them flat, and then with wear over the years, the screw face grew a divot from the valve touching it. Repaired that. Massive amount of crud on all the valve stems; it was not easy getting the "packard" script valves out of the heads but eventually I succeeded. Cleaned them up with a fiber wheel on a buffer, put them back in the engine and with the repaired tappets, the engine runs like a sewing machine.

Similiar effort on the '40 (with a '46 engine in it) but haven't fired that up yet.


Run non ethanol gasoline, and run the engine long enough to get to temperature, and run it monthly.


Thank me later.