Vacuum and electric in one unit? I assumed that the entire assembly was a vacuum system. (Coincidentally just replaced the vac line going to the wiper transmission on my '37 115C)

Vacuum and electric in one unit? I assumed that the entire assembly was a vacuum system. (Coincidentally just replaced the vac line going to the wiper transmission on my '37 115C)

[Q]All 1940 Packards have a junction block on the left inner fender panel about 6" back from the radiator......[/Q]

My '37 115C had a bastardized junction block there as well. The original having apparently disintegrated, one of the previous owners used a clear chunk of 3/4" diameter plastic tubing, and inserted 1/2" long, 8x32 machine screws into it, with 'U' shaped wire connectors on the wiring. They had about 10 of those screws on the tube; and three or four were used. I replaced that earlier this year with a modern junction block. Sorta makes me wonder what other nightmares are waiting for me.

Thanks, all. Very helpful.

I will be pulling the clip to address rust issues on the main body where the front fenders attach, and because I'm not as flexible as I was 40 years ago. The clip can be stashed outside under cover while the transplant is taking place; I'll then work on fender and shell damage (rust and collision) while it's apart.

The replacement engine came out of a running '47 Clipper; the seller was nice enough to provide me video of the compression test and the running engine on the road and in the driveway, before they pulled it to put in a fuel injected SBC. (sad for the Clipper, good for me, though).

I've got a cherry picker and a low-rise lift which makes chassis work a bit more convenient.

I'm thinking a winter project, like I need another one. I'll be pulling the worn out engine in the '40 110 and replacing it with the good-running engine from a '47 Clipper that I bought last year. I won't be using the Clipper transmission as the '40 has overdrive.

Is there a procedure written down for engine removal? Is it best to pull engine and trans together, or can I leave the trans in the car and just pull the engine?

Thanks for any advice.

I had a couple of windows in my '37 that had delaminated; the LF wing window, the RR passenger window and the RR vent window.

I replaced the wing and the RR window for a little over $100, using the originals as patterns. The RR vent can stay until I feel like tearing it apart, which might be never.

Easy job. Somewhere on line I found a site that would replace all the glass in the car for around $400; excluding seals of course.

It's your car. Build what you want.

Just saw this pop up at auction.

https://hibid.com/lot/101134444/1950s- ... 201&miles=-1&ref=lot-list

I'm in Spokane, and I know there are a number of Packard owners in the area, including some V-12's. Guy down the street from me has a '39 120. I have a '37 115C and a '40 110 that's a mess.

Was there a problem with Kanter? I used them for my '37 115c, without much of a problem. (Main problem was the thickness of the metal support for the shoes was too thick, and I had to grind it down to fit the pushrods for the wheel cylinders and other parts. Took about 5 min. per wheel.