I pumped all the gas out of the gas tank using the electric fuel pump. The gas was brownish. I then blew out the fuel line with an air compressor and put a new fuel filter near the carburetor. I put new fuel in and it started right up. I set the KD spark tester at 20Kv and got good spark. I let it idle and measured the temperature on the exhaust manifold and was surprised that it was near 500 degrees near the front. I advanced the timing and the temperature came down to 400 degrees at the hottest spot on the exhaust manifold, but most readings were nearer 300 degrees. The base of the carburetor is 160 degrees. I am now ready for a test tomoorrow in the afternoon heat.

I hope my problem was just old gas and retarded timing.

I have a 1947 Clipper 8. When the weather is over 90 degrees, my car acts like it is not getting enough gas after I drive for awhile, especially in traffic. If I go less than 15 miles per hour, it may not stall, but if I depress the gas pedal more it will stall. Then, it is hard to start.
I would like to rule out the heat riser. The spring is missing, but the counterweight moves freely and stays down. Does this mean it is holding the valve open and I do not have a problem?
I have a clear fuel filter right at the carburetor, and I can see fuel in it. I am using an electric fuel pump which is near the fuel tank, and if I disconnect the line from the carburetor and turn on the ignition I get good fuel flow.
I have read several threads here about vapor lock, but before I do anything significant, I would like to know if my symptom is really vapor lock.

Thank you. I will try this.

I am trying to remove the Packard script from the trunk and the Clipper and Deluxe scripts from the front doors and front fenders. They appear to be held by speed nuts. I am reading that the scripts should not be pried, because the studs will break. How should they be removed?

Thank you. I will remove the tank and drill the hole as you suggest.

I got my Clipper back from the shop. They had to install new kingpins. It now steers effortlessly. Thanks again for the advice.

I had the fuel tank for my 1947 Clipper resealed. The sealant clogged my whistle tube, so now it is very difficult to fill the tank. I was able to clear the top of the tube where it joins the filler neck, but I can't get a wire down the tube to clear the whistle and the bottom of the tube. I am considering cutting the tube near the filler neck near the top, drilling a new hole on the side of the tank toward the top, and installing a new tube which will connect to the old filler tube near the filler neck. If someone has a better idea, I would sure like to hear it.

I buy ethanol free gas for my collectible cars and for my equipment with small engines. Isn't it available everywhere? It is more expensive, but might be saving repair costs.

One side of the switch on the carburetor goes to the ignition switch, the other to the starter solenoid. Check the voltage at the carburetor switch with the ignition switch on, to make sure you are getting voltage. If you are, then put the meter on the starter solenoid terminal and put the pedal to the floor and see if you are getting voltage there. If you are getting voltage to the starter solenoid and it doesn't engage, check the starter solenoid ground.

Thanks. I found a shop in St. Petersburg very experienced with Packards and a machine shop close to them with the proper equipment. I will take my Clipper there tomorrow.